Out in the green
Parks, paths, thermal water and snow
A quarter of Italy is inside some kind of protected boundary, and the towns inside those boundaries tend to have been left alone by the things that changed everywhere else. What follows is organised by what is actually around the town rather than by how the scenery photographs: a national park is a legal boundary, a walking route is a route somebody walks, and thermal water either comes out of the ground there or it does not.
Pick a shelf
Towns inside a nature parkInside the boundary of a regional nature park.42 pieces
Towns inside a national parkInside the boundary of one of the national parks.17 pieces
Hot spring townsNatural thermal water, with somewhere built to bathe in it.15 pieces
Towns on a walking routeA stage on the Francigena or one of the other long historic walks.13 pieces
Ski townsA ski area on the commune's own territory.11 pieces
Everything in this room
Every town in our catalogue inside a national parkThe complete list of small towns inside Italy's national parks: the Gran Paradiso, the Stelvio, the Abruzzo, the Pollino, the Cilento, the Gargano and the rest, ordered by recognition.
Every ski town in our catalogue, all of themThe complete list of small Italian towns with a ski area in our catalogue, from the Dolomites and the Aosta valley to the Apennines and the Sila, ordered by outside recognition.
The 7 best beach towns inside a nature park in PugliaPuglian beaches where the sand runs into protected dune pinewood rather than a seafront strip: clean bathing water, Aleppo pines, watchtowers and limestone towns behind them, from the Ionian shore of the Salento to the olive plain below Ostuni.
The best hot-spring towns within two hours of VeronaThermal water surfaces all around Verona, in the volcanic mud of the Euganean Hills, along the Trentino valleys and at the foot of the Apennines, and whole towns have been built on top of it: colonnaded bathhouses, hot pools steaming in November, and hotels that still write mud treatments into the price of a room.
The best hot-spring towns within two hours of PaduaThermal water surfaces all around Padua, from the mineral mud of the Euganean Hills to the salt-and-sulphur springs of the lagoon and the alpine spa valleys of Trentino. These are the towns built around the water rather than beside it, most of them reachable in a morning's drive or a regional train ride.
The best hot-spring towns within two hours of BresciaThermal water surfaces all around Brescia, in the Euganean mud pools south of Padua, along the Val Camonica, and at the foot of the Bergamasque valleys, in towns that grew up around their own springs. A drive of a couple of hours reaches sulphur baths, Liberty-era bathhouses and vineyards on volcanic hills.
The best hot-spring towns within two hours of ParmaSulphur and salt-bromide-iodine water surfaces all along the Emilian plain and the first Apennine folds, in towns where the bathhouse, the pump room and the pasticceria all sit on the same street. Within a couple of hours of Parma there are thermal towns that treat their water as everyday infrastructure rather than a spa holiday.
The best hot-spring towns within two hours of RiminiSulphur and salt water rise across the Romagna hinterland and the Adriatic flats, feeding thermal pools in towns of brick porticoes and Apennine stone. Inland spa towns, salt-pan lagoons and Tuscan-Romagnol border villages, all within a couple of hours of Rimini.
The best hot-spring towns within 75 minutes of PisaThermal water rises all along the western edge of Tuscany, in spa towns under the Apuan foothills, in travertine bathhouses near Pisa and in old mining country down the coast. These are the towns built around their own springs, all inside an easy drive of Pisa airport.
The best hot-spring towns within 75 minutes of SienaThermal water surfaces all around Siena, in travertine quarry country to the east and in the volcanic hills of the Val d'Orcia, and the towns above these springs were built around the bathing rather than beside it. Sulphur pools, travertine terraces, pici and Vino Nobile within an easy drive of the city.
The best hot-spring towns within 90 minutes of PerugiaThermal water rises across the hills between Umbria and southern Tuscany, feeding travertine pools, spa towns built from pale stone and bottling plants in the Apennine valleys. All of these towns sit within an easy drive of Perugia, and all of them grew up around their springs.
The best hidden ski towns in LombardyLombardy has more skiable mountain than any other Italian region, and almost all of the traffic goes to two names. These are the smaller villages on the same snow, with lifts, altitude and a fraction of the queue.
The best towns on a walking route in the province of ViterboThe Via Francigena crosses northern Lazio through tufa gorges, olive terraces and lakeside towns, and the province of Viterbo holds some of its best stages. A guide to walking towns between Acquapendente and Sutri, with volcanic lake swimming, black stone houses and cheap pilgrim beds.
The 6 best towns inside a nature park in the province of AnconaRegional nature parks cover a surprising share of the province of Ancona, from the limestone gorges of the Esino valley to the white cliffs of Monte Conero. These are the towns that sit inside the park boundaries, where the walking starts at the edge of town.
The best hot spring towns in Emilia-RomagnaEmilia-Romagna's thermal towns run from the Apennine valleys to the salt flats of the Adriatic, each with natural mineral water and bathing establishments attached. A guide to the smaller spa towns, with what to see, how to arrive and when to go.
The best ski towns in the province of Valle d'Aosta/Vallée d'AosteSki towns across Valle d'Aosta, from Ayas and Gressoney-Saint-Jean in the Monte Rosa valleys to La Thuile, Cogne and Valtournenche, each with a ski area on its own territory and a valley worth staying in after the lifts close.
The best towns on a walking route in the province of SienaThe province of Siena is crossed by long historic walking routes, and these towns are the stages along them: hilltop crete senesi villages, Val d'Orcia thermal water, travertine and brick, pecorino and Brunello.
The 8 best towns inside a nature park in the province of BresciaTowns in the province of Brescia that sit inside a regional nature park, from the terraces above Lake Garda to the stone villages under the Adamello glacier. Olive groves, rock carvings, high pasture and lake water, with fewer visitors than the southern shore.
The best hidden ski towns in the province of TrentoSki towns in the province of Trento with lifts on their own territory, away from the busiest resorts: valley villages of stone and larch where the snow, the spruce forest and the canederli come without the queues.
The best hidden towns on a walking route in the province of PerugiaSmall towns in the province of Perugia that sit as stages on the long historic walking routes across Umbria, from the Valnerina and the Nera gorge to the olive terraces above the Spoleto valley. Stone villages with pilgrim trails, lentils, black truffle and cured pork.
The best small ski towns in the province of L'AquilaSki towns in the province of L'Aquila where the runs sit above stone villages rather than purpose-built resorts, from the Apennine plateaux of the Altopiano delle Cinque Miglia to the beech forests of the Abruzzo national park.
The best small towns on a walking route in the province of SienaSmall towns in the province of Siena that sit on the old pilgrim roads south, from the clay of the Crete Senesi to the volcanic flank of Monte Amiata: travertine walls, thermal water, pecorino and pici, and stages you can walk between in a day.
The best towns inside a nature park in the province of RomaTowns inside the regional nature parks of the province of Roma, from the crater lakes of the Castelli Romani to the beech woods above the Aniene and the volcanic shores of Lake Bracciano. Where to eat porchetta, walk chestnut trees and swim in fresh water within reach of the capital.
The best hidden towns inside a national park in the province of CosenzaSmall towns inside the Pollino and Sila national parks in the province of Cosenza, where beech forest, Bosnian pine and limestone gorge sit above villages built of river stone. Where to go for walnut bread, sheep's cheese and long walks without the coastal traffic.
The best ski towns in VenetoVeneto's ski towns run from the Cadore valleys and the Marmolada up to the Asiago plateau and the shore of Lake Garda, each with a ski area on its own territory. Where to ski in the Dolomites and the Venetian Prealps, town by town.
The best towns on a walking route in PugliaPuglia's long-distance pilgrim paths, the Via Francigena's southern stages and the Micaelic routes across the Gargano, pass through working towns of white limestone and tufa. These are the stages worth stopping in overnight.
The best hidden towns inside a nature park in the province of RomaSix smaller towns in the province of Roma that sit inside regional nature parks, from volcanic lake rims in the Castelli Romani to the beech woods and limestone gorges above the Aniene valley.
The best hidden towns inside a nature park in the province of PerugiaTowns in the province of Perugia that sit inside Umbria's regional nature parks, from the reed beds of Lake Trasimeno to the beech woods of Monte Cucco and the olive terraces above the Tiber valley. Smaller places, with the parks beginning at the edge of the walls.
The best towns inside a national park in MarcheSix Marche towns that lie inside the boundary of a national park, in the limestone country of the Sibillini and the upper Tronto valley: sheep's cheese, sulphur springs, beech woods and stone villages under the high ridges.
The best ski towns in PiemonteSki towns across Piemonte, from the Monte Rosa valleys to the Ligurian Alps above Cuneo, each with a ski area on its own territory and a working town at the bottom of the slope.
The best towns inside a national park in LazioSix Lazio towns that sit inside the boundary of a national park, from the beech forests and bear country of the Apennines to the dunes and coastal lakes south of Rome, and out to the island cliffs.
The best towns inside a national park in ToscanaEight Tuscan towns that sit inside the boundary of a national park, from the granite coves of the Tuscan Archipelago to the chestnut ridges of the Apennines and the beech forests above the Casentino.
The best towns inside a nature park in VenetoSeven Veneto towns that sit inside a regional or national nature park, from the volcanic hills of the Colli Euganei to the Po Delta lagoons, the river Sile and the Dolomite peaks above Ampezzo.
The best towns inside a nature park in BasilicataSix Basilicata towns that sit inside regional nature parks, from the sandstone spires of the Lucanian Dolomites to the oak woods of Accettura and the waterfalls below San Fele.
The best small towns inside a national park in MoliseSmall Molisan towns that sit inside national park boundaries, between beech forest and limestone, where bears and wolves are still counted and the stone houses look up at the Mainarde. Where to go for walking, chestnuts and sheep-track country.
The 9 best towns inside a nature park in MarcheNine Marche towns that sit inside a regional nature park, from the limestone gorges above the Esino to the white cliffs of the Conero and the beech woods below Monte Carpegna.
The best towns inside a nature park in PiemontePiemonte's regional nature parks run from beech and fir forest in the Maritime Alps to lake shore, marsh and Alpine glacier terrain, and towns sit inside their boundaries. These are the smaller places, with the walking, the parish churches and the mountain kitchens that come with them.
The 6 best hidden towns inside a nature park in ToscanaSix smaller Tuscan towns that sit inside a regional nature park, from the marble ridges of the Apuane above Seravezza and Stazzema to the wooded mining hills behind Massa Marittima, Campiglia Marittima and Suvereto.
The best hidden towns inside a nature park in Emilia-RomagnaSmall towns inside Emilia-Romagna's regional nature parks, from the chestnut woods of the Modenese Apennines to the gypsum ridges above Faenza and the sandstone hills of the Montefeltro. Sulphur springs, wild boar, pecorino and marked trails that begin at the edge of the houses.
The best small towns inside a nature park in LazioSmall Lazio towns that sit inside regional nature parks, from tufa outcrops above the Treja gorge to beech woods in the Lucretili and the volcanic rim above Lake Nemi. Where to go for chestnut woods, park footpaths and stone villages within reach of Rome.
The best small towns inside a nature park in PiemonteSmall Piemontese towns that sit inside regional nature parks, from the larch woods of the Val Chisone to the beech forests above the Valle Pesio. Stone and slate villages with marked trails starting at the edge of the last house.
The best small towns inside a nature park in LombardiaSmall Lombard towns that lie inside regional nature parks, from the limestone walls of the Orobie and the rock carvings of Valcamonica to the terraces above Lake Garda. Stone villages, protected valleys and walking that starts at the edge of the houses.
The best small towns inside a nature park in LiguriaLiguria's regional nature parks cover beech forest, chestnut woods, slate gorges and headlands of pine falling straight into the sea. These are the smaller towns that sit inside their boundaries, from the Beigua ridge to the Aveto valley and the Portofino promontory.
The 6 best towns inside a nature park in the province of GenovaIn the province of Genova the regional parks run from Aveto's beech woods and pastures down to the Portofino headland, where holm oak and Mediterranean scrub drop straight into the sea. Slate and rough stone houses, focaccia, chestnut flour and mushrooms, and marked paths that climb from the water to the ridge.
The best towns inside a national park in the province of NuoroInside the boundaries of the Gennargentu and Golfo di Orosei national park, granite and limestone villages sit between holm oak woods, sheep pasture and gorges that drop to the sea. Barbaricino cooking, autumn chestnuts and long walking country in the province of Nuoro.
The 8 best towns inside a national park in the province of PotenzaBasilicata's inland mountains, where beech forest, Apennine pine and stone-built villages sit inside the boundaries of the Pollino and Appennino Lucano national parks. Chestnuts, red aubergines from the Sinni valley, and roads that climb above the treeline.
The best towns inside a national park in the province of FoggiaThe Gargano peninsula is one great national park, a limestone spur of beech forest, sea caves and whitewashed hill towns above the Adriatic. These are the towns that sit inside the park boundary, where the olive groves, the orange gardens and the pines run straight down to the water.
The best towns inside a nature park in the province of PalermoInland from the Tyrrhenian coast, the Madonie rise into beech woods, limestone pasture and stone villages where manna is still tapped from ash trees and the cheese counters sell aged pecorino siciliano. These are the towns of the province of Palermo that sit inside a regional nature park.
The best ski towns in LombardiaSki towns across Lombardia's Alpine valleys, from the Valtellina and Valle Camonica to the Valchiavenna, where stone and larch villages sit below lifts on their own territory and the season runs from early snow to spring sun.
The best small towns inside a nature park in SiciliaInland Sicilia rises into beech forest, manna ash and high stone villages, where the parks of the Madonie, the Nebrodi and Etna keep towns of sandstone and lava rock within walking distance of chestnut woods and mountain pasture. These are the smaller places inside those protected boundaries, with provola cheese, wild fennel and a cooler summer than the coast.
The best towns inside a national park in the province of IserniaMolise's western mountains, the Mainarde ridge and the beech woods above Lake Castel San Vincenzo, hold towns that sit inside protected park boundaries: bagpipe makers at Scapoli, olive groves at Venafro, bear country above Pizzone.
The best hill towns inside a national park in CalabriaInland Calabria is mountain country: beech and silver fir on the Pollino and Sila ridges, stone villages built on rock spurs, wild boar ragù and Caciocavallo Silano. These hill towns sit within the national parks, high above the coast road.
The best hill towns inside a nature park in PugliaInland Puglia rises off the coastal plain into limestone ridges, oak scrub and the deep ravines of the gravine, and these towns sit in the middle of protected parkland, with whitewashed streets, grilled bombette and roads that empty out by mid-afternoon.
The best hill towns on a walking route in LazioInland Lazio is walking country: tufa ridges above the Via Francigena, volcanic lakes, chestnut woods in the Ciociaria, and hill towns where pilgrims and walkers still arrive on foot. These are the stages worth stopping in rather than passing through.
The 7 best towns with a serious restaurant that sit inside a nature park in the province of PerugiaIn the province of Perugia, protected hills and lake shores hold towns that cook at a level worth planning a day around, from Trasimeno carp and lake tench to torta al testo, black celery and Umbrian olive oil pressed within sight of the table.
The best towns with a serious restaurant that sit on a walking route in LazioLazio's long walking routes, the Via Francigena in the north and the Appia in the south, pass through towns where the kitchen is worth stopping a day for: lake fish, Amatrice-style pasta, artichokes from the volcanic soil, buffalo mozzarella off the coastal plain.
The 7 best towns inside a national park that eat well in PugliaPuglia's national parks cover limestone gorges, Aleppo pine forest and the high stone plateau of the Murgia, and the towns inside them cook accordingly: lamb, wild greens, sea urchins, burrata and orecchiette rolled by hand. These are the parks' towns where a dining guide has singled out a table.
The best towns inside a nature park that eat well in the province of NapoliVolcanic tuff, lemon terraces and the Monti Lattari ridge give the province of Napoli two very different protected landscapes, and the tables inside them cook accordingly: fried fish and Falanghina above the Campi Flegrei craters, provolone del monaco and pasta with walnuts on the Sorrentine hills.
The 9 best towns inside a nature park that you can reach by train in SiciliaSicilian nature parks reach right up to the edge of the towns inside them: manna ash and beech on the Madonie, lava terraces and pistachio on Etna, sulphur-coloured hills above the Belice. These are the parks you can get to by rail, no hire car needed.
The best ski towns with a serious restaurant in Trentino-Alto Adige/SüdtirolSki towns in Trentino-Alto Adige where the lifts run from the edge of the village and the kitchen at the end of the day is run by someone the hardest guides take seriously. Larch forest, Ladin dumplings, Lagrein and Gewürztraminer, and snow that holds into spring.