Anywhere Italy

The best hot-spring towns within 90 minutes of Perugia

Lugnano in Teverina, Umbria

The ground between Perugia and the Val d'Orcia leaks warm water. It surfaces in travertine basins, in Roman brick tanks reused for centuries, in sulphurous streams that steam on cold mornings and keep the grass green through winter. The towns above them are built of the same pale stone the water deposits, and their kitchens run to pici, pecorino, cinta senese pork and thick Tuscan soups that suit an afternoon spent in hot water. Late autumn and February are the best months for it: chestnuts, new oil, empty pools, cypress ridges in fog.

Most people who come for thermal Italy in this part of the country head for Saturnia, where the Cascate del Mulino spill down their limestone shelves and the car park fills before breakfast. It is genuinely remarkable, which is exactly why the photographs circulate and the queues form at the free pools. The nearby resort hotels price accordingly, and in August the terraces are shoulder to shoulder.

The geology does not stop at Saturnia. The same fault lines that heat the water there run north through the Chiana and the Nera valleys, up into the Umbrian Apennines, and towns along that line have been drinking, bathing in and bottling their springs for as long as anyone has kept records. Fewer visitors go to these ones. They are within reach of Perugia in an easy morning, and several of them are worth a night for the walls and the food alone.

Of the 73 communes we have mapped in a 90-minute drive of Perugia, 7 qualify as hot-spring towns: each has thermal water a town has been built around. The smallest, Lugnano in Teverina, has 1,428 residents.

Lugnano in Teverina

Lugnano in Teverina, Umbria

Why visit Lugnano in Teverina

Lugnano in Teverina sits at 441 meters on a ridge above the Tiber, sixty kilometers south of Perugia and twenty-five west of Terni. The town traces its origins to the seventh century, when inhabitants fleeing barbarian invasions sought refuge on the spur after the destruction of nearby Luchiano.

The Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta, dated 1230 on the inscription of its façade, is built in travertine from quarries by the Tiber, a Romanesque parish church layered over a Lombard-era predecessor, with a cosmatesque pavement and a portico of paired columns. On the hill below, the Villa Romana di Poggio Gramignano, built around the 10s BC, was excavated through the 1980s and again from 2016.

Beneath its collapsed roof archaeologists found a late-fifth-century cemetery of 47 infant and fetal burials, the largest set of child burials in Roman Italy, interpreted as a catastrophic die-off from Plasmodium falciparum malaria. The Olea Mundi olive collection, planted in 2014, holds 1,200 trees from 23 countries.

What to see in Lugnano in Teverina

  • Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta. Romanesque parish church dated 1230 in travertine from Tiber quarries, with cosmatesque pavement and a paired-column portico.
  • Villa Romana di Poggio Gramignano. Augustan villa with a late-fifth-century cemetery of 47 infant burials, interpreted as a catastrophic malaria die-off.
  • Palazzo Farnese-Ridolfi. Sixteenth-century palace known as the Pennone for its mast-like profile rising above the lower town.

How to get to Lugnano in Teverina

There is no station we could confirm here, so this one means driving. Terni is roughly 40 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the months that work. The Tiber valley below stays green into early summer, and the olive harvest carries through November when the Olea Mundi trees come into the frantoi. July and August are hot on the lower Tiber; the centro storico thins between three and six.

Everything we know about Lugnano in Teverina

San Casciano dei Bagni

San Casciano dei Bagni, Toscana

Why visit San Casciano dei Bagni

San Casciano dei Bagni sits at 582 meters at the southern edge of the province of Siena, above 42 hot springs that average 42 degrees Celsius. The baths were used continuously from Etruscan through Roman times and again from the Renaissance, when visitors came from across Europe.

In 2022, an excavation that began in 2019 at the ancient sanctuary turned up 24 bronze votive statues protected by mud, with around 6,000 coins in gold, silver and bronze. The find was the largest of its kind in fifty years; most surviving Etruscan votive material is terracotta.

The 1,500 residents live on a basalt outcrop above the Roman thermal complex, in a centro storico of stone houses and three small churches. The borgo joined the Borghi più belli network in 2014 and remains one of the smallest communes in Toscana to carry both that label and Bandiera Arancione.

What to see in San Casciano dei Bagni

  • Santuario Ritrovato. Etruscan-Roman thermal sanctuary excavated since 2019, where 24 bronze votives and around 6,000 coins were recovered in 2022.
  • Bagno Grande. The principal natural pool of the 42 hot springs, used from the second century BC through the Renaissance and reopened to the public.
  • Collegiata di San Leonardo. Romanesque parish church in the centro storico, restored in the seventeenth century, with a baptismal font carved from local travertine.

How to get to San Casciano dei Bagni

There is no station we could confirm here, so this one means driving. Perugia is roughly 68 minutes away by road.

Our tip

The thermal pools make the calendar different here. Winter is the season many visitors prefer, when the 42-degree water steams against cold air and snow occasionally dusts the basalt outcrop. April through June and September into October are the most balanced months: warm hill light, the dry-stone walls of the borgo at their best, the sanctuary excavations open to guided tours. Sagra del Ciaffagnone di San Casciano dei Bagni falls in June.

Everything we know about San Casciano dei Bagni

Genga

Genga, Marche

Why visit Genga

Genga sits at 322 meters on the Sentino river in the Apennine foothills of the Marche, seven kilometers downstream from Sassoferrato and twelve north of Fabriano. The commune is the ancestral seat of the della Genga, the noble family that gave the Catholic Church Pope Leo XII, born at the Castello della Genga in 1760.

The territory is best known for the Grotte di Frasassi, a thirteen-kilometer karst system whose entrance was found in 1971 and opened to visitors in 1974. The Abisso Ancona, a single chamber roughly 180 by 120 meters and nearly 200 tall, is large enough to hold the Milan cathedral.

Above the cave entrance, the Tempio del Valadier, an octagonal neoclassical chapel set into a cliff wall, was commissioned by Leo XII from Giuseppe Valadier in 1828. The Abbazia di San Vittore alle Chiuse, a Romanesque Benedictine church on a Greek-cross plan, stands at the gorge mouth and dates to before 1080.

What to see in Genga

  • Grotte di Frasassi. Thirteen kilometers of karst passageways found in 1971 and opened in 1974, with the Abisso Ancona chamber 180 by 120 meters wide and 200 meters tall.
  • Tempio del Valadier. Octagonal neoclassical chapel commissioned by Pope Leo XII from Giuseppe Valadier in 1828, built of travertine and set into the cliff above the gorge.
  • Abbazia di San Vittore alle Chiuse. Romanesque Benedictine church on a Greek-cross plan with four columns, built of local limestone, attested before 1080 at the mouth of the Frasassi gorge.

How to get to Genga

There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Ancona is roughly 62 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the best months for Genga. The Sentino valley turns green from April, the limestone gorges hold the cool, and the woodland trails through the Gola della Rossa park stay open through autumn. The Frasassi caves run at a constant fourteen degrees year-round; a light jacket is needed even in August.

Everything we know about Genga

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Castelnuovo Berardenga, Toscana

Why visit Castelnuovo Berardenga

The commune sits east of Siena, where the hills give way to the clay swells of the Crete Senesi. The name comes from the Terra Berardinga, the area controlled in the tenth century by a Frankish nobleman named Berardo, and the borgo grew up around the castle walls the Sienese Republic raised against Florence.

The centro storico, the villa and gardens at its heart, and the surrounding zone of vineyards form one continuous pattern rather than separate parts: fortress town above, wine country falling away below it toward the clay hills. Across the wider territory, 13 castles, 70 churches and 200 farms record the medieval pattern of the Sienese contado, a scatter of small fortified points and parish churches administering land rather than one dominant center.

The place reads as a border post that outlived its military purpose and settled into agriculture and the arts, its castle now a clock tower, its noble villa now a music foundation, its walls now overlooking rows of Sangiovese.

What to see in Castelnuovo Berardenga

  • Villa Chigi Saracini. Eighteenth-century villa and Italian garden inside the centro storico, its park designed by the Sienese composer Guido Chigi Saracini, whose family foundation still runs the Accademia Musicale Chigiana in Siena.
  • Torre dell'Orologio. Surviving tower of the fortress, now bearing the civic clock, the highest visible point of the centro storico.
  • Chiesa dei Santi Giusto e Clemente. Eighteenth-century parish church with a neoclassical façade, built on the site of an earlier Romanesque pieve.

How to get to Castelnuovo Berardenga

There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Firenze is roughly 77 minutes away by road.

✷ We have written about Castelnuovo Berardenga

The wine is the whole economy of these hills, every village with its own, the region’s name stamped on the most famous red in Italy. Tuscan food runs to cured and roasted meat, so the wine ran red to meet it, lighter than you expect, almost fruity, easy, made to sit beside a steak and not to be lectured about. Here is the only wine knowledge you need on this road: it is all good.

Read our piece on Castelnuovo Berardenga

Road to Siena | The Long Way Is the Better Way

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the months Chianti Classico shows best, the green hills moving toward the gold of harvest. The Sagra del Vino runs the second weekend of September. July and August push past thirty and the centro storico empties between two and six; the cellars on the surrounding hills offer cool tastings and longer rentals.

Everything we know about Castelnuovo Berardenga

Rapolano Terme

Rapolano Terme, Toscana

Why visit Rapolano Terme

The comune sits at 334 meters on the eastern edge of the clay hills, twenty kilometers east of Siena. It was called simply Rapolano until 1949, when the spa industry pushed the name change, a shift that marks how thoroughly the waters came to define the place.

The thermal facilities and the quarry sit at some distance from each other within the comune: the springs rise near the centro and to its south, while the travertine beds lie in the Serre frazione three kilometers further out, a separate settlement built around the stone rather than the water. The medieval centro storico, meanwhile, holds no thermal or mineral history at all: a fortified perimeter, a Sienese-period castello on the highest point, and a parish church founded in the eleventh century, all predating the spa industry by centuries.

The clay-hill landscape spreads north and west of the comune, and draws most visitors past the spa itself. What emerges is a town built on two extractive industries, water and stone, wrapped around an older walled settlement that has little to do with either.

What to see in Rapolano Terme

  • Terme Antica Querciolaia. Six outdoor pools at 38 degrees, the older of the two facilities and the one tied to a general's convalescence.
  • Terme San Giovanni. Thermal complex south of the centro among the clay hills of the Crete Senesi, with outdoor pools facing vineyards and olive groves.
  • Cave di travertino di Serre. Active quarries in the Serre di Rapolano frazione three kilometers south, the source of the stone behind the Pienza Duomo's façade.

How to get to Rapolano Terme

There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 63 minutes away by road.

Our tip

Thermal towns work year-round and Rapolano is the rare Sienese commune where winter is a season. The pools at Antica Querciolaia and San Giovanni stay open through the cold months and the steam off the 38-degree water against the December clay hills is the postcard the spa industry sells. April through June and September into October are the wider best months, with the Crete Senesi at full color and the surrounding wine and olive harvests pulling traffic through the centro.

Everything we know about Rapolano Terme

Nocera Umbra

Nocera Umbra, Umbria

Why visit Nocera Umbra

Nocera Umbra sits fifteen kilometers north of Foligno. The Romans called it Nuceria; the town has held its own bishopric since the early Middle Ages and was contested between Perugia, Spoleto and the Trinci of Foligno through the medieval period, a tug of war between larger powers that left it walled and defensible on its slope rather than absorbed by any one of them.

The centro storico climbs to a summit where the tower, the cathedral and the former Rocca stand together, the civic and the religious and the military crowded onto the same high ground. Below, five kilometers down from that core, the springs form a separate pole of the town's life, functional rather than defensive, drawing visitors for water rather than for stone.

The Bandiera Arancione recognition was reconfirmed after reconstruction, a marker that the rebuilding did not just replace what fell but held the town to the standard it met before the quake.

What to see in Nocera Umbra

  • Campanaccio (Torre Civica). Eleventh-century square tower at the highest point of the borgo. Only part of one side remained standing after 1997; the rest is reconstruction, stone matched to stone.
  • Pinacoteca e Museo Civico. Civic gallery in the deconsecrated Chiesa di San Francesco with works by Niccolò Alunno, Matteo da Gualdo, and the school of Cimabue.
  • Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta. Cathedral at the summit of the centro storico, partially damaged and restored, set beside the tower and the former Rocca.

How to get to Nocera Umbra

There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 57 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the months locals prefer. The slopes around the centro storico hold light well into the evening and the Bagni di Nocera springs are at their easiest to walk. July and August push temperatures into the low thirties, manageable at this elevation; the Pinacoteca and the cathedral stay cool through the afternoon. Palio dei Quartieri falls in August.

Everything we know about Nocera Umbra

Montepulciano

Montepulciano, Toscana

Why visit Montepulciano

The ridge runs between the Val di Chiana and the Val d'Orcia, 70 kilometers southeast of Siena, and the town follows its spine uphill: streets climb from the gates toward the high point, where the main square sits ringed by the buildings that define the skyline from below. The origin predates the Renaissance fabric by centuries.

Etruscan tombs survive in the surrounding hills, though almost nothing of that period shows in the centro storico itself, which was rebuilt wholesale in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries over whatever came before. The wine and the festival both use the climb as their setting rather than their subject: the cellars are cut into the rock beneath the palazzi, keeping a constant temperature for aging, and the barrel race each August sends two men from each of the eight contrade hauling an eighty-kilogram cask up the same gradient that every visitor covers on foot, only slower.

The steepness that shaped the defensive site nine centuries ago is still what a person feels first, in the legs, before the buildings register at all.

What to see in Montepulciano

  • Tempio di San Biagio. A 13-meter dome and travertine façade standing alone outside the walls, the ground falling away below it so the building reads as a single volume against the hillside.
  • Piazza Grande. The high piazza at the top of the ridge, ringed by the Duomo, the Palazzo Comunale and the Palazzo Tarugi, all rebuilt in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
  • Palazzo Comunale. Town hall designed by Michelozzo in the fifteenth century, its tower offering a view over the Val di Chiana and Val d'Orcia.

How to get to Montepulciano

There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 57 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the working months on the ridge: vine work in the surrounding hills, mild days, evening light that lingers over the Val d'Orcia. July and August push into the low thirties and the climb to Piazza Grande slows even the residents. The Bravìo delle Botti runs the last Sunday of August and fills the town. Calici di Stelle falls in July.

Everything we know about Montepulciano

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