The best towns on a walking route in the province of Siena
Walking is the oldest way to arrive in the province of Siena, and it still suits the ground. The paths run over the crete senesi, pale clay ridges planted with wheat, then climb into the volcanic slopes of Monte Amiata where chestnut woods replace vines and the houses turn from brick to dark trachyte. In late spring the verges smell of broom and cut grass; in October the walking is cool and the tables carry pici with wild boar ragù, pecorino aged in ash, Brunello and Vino Nobile within a morning's walk of each other. Between stages there are pilgrim hostels, thermal pools, cypress lines that everyone photographs and travertine gates that open onto a single main street.
Most visitors meet this landscape from Florence, on a coach that leaves after breakfast and returns for dinner, with a vineyard lunch and a photo stop pressed in between. It works, which is why the car parks below the walled towns fill by mid-morning and the same viewpoints appear on every phone. The routes are short, the stops are fixed, and the countryside stays behind glass for most of the day. Nothing about it is wrong, but it does mean the province is seen at driving speed, in the same order, by a great many people at once.
The paths carry on regardless. The Via Francigena comes down from the north and heads towards Rome through valley floors and abbey land, and other historic routes cross the Amiata and the Val d'Orcia towards the hot springs and the old customs frontier with the Papal States. The towns here are the stages on those routes, places built to feed and shelter people arriving on foot, some of them still with the fountain, the pilgrim hospital and the bread oven that made that possible. Fewer people reach them slowly, which is exactly the way they were designed to be reached.
Of the 20 communes we have mapped in the province of Siena, 10 qualify as towns on a walking route: each is a stage on one of the long historic walking routes. The smallest, Radicofani, has 1,060 residents.
Elsewhere in the catalogue: The 9 best hidden hill towns on a walking route in Toscana and The best small towns on a walking route in the province of Siena.
San Casciano dei Bagni
Why visit San Casciano dei Bagni
San Casciano dei Bagni sits at 582 meters at the southern edge of the province of Siena, above 42 hot springs that average 42 degrees Celsius. The baths were used continuously from Etruscan through Roman times and again from the Renaissance, when visitors came from across Europe.
In 2022, an excavation that began in 2019 at the ancient sanctuary turned up 24 bronze votive statues protected by mud, with around 6,000 coins in gold, silver and bronze. The find was the largest of its kind in fifty years; most surviving Etruscan votive material is terracotta.
The 1,500 residents live on a basalt outcrop above the Roman thermal complex, in a centro storico of stone houses and three small churches. The borgo joined the Borghi più belli network in 2014 and remains one of the smallest communes in Toscana to carry both that label and Bandiera Arancione.
What to see in San Casciano dei Bagni
- Santuario Ritrovato. Etruscan-Roman thermal sanctuary excavated since 2019, where 24 bronze votives and around 6,000 coins were recovered in 2022.
- Bagno Grande. The principal natural pool of the 42 hot springs, used from the second century BC through the Renaissance and reopened to the public.
- Collegiata di San Leonardo. Romanesque parish church in the centro storico, restored in the seventeenth century, with a baptismal font carved from local travertine.
How to get to San Casciano dei Bagni
There is no station we could confirm here, so this one means driving. Perugia is roughly 68 minutes away by road.
Our tip
The thermal pools make the calendar different here. Winter is the season many visitors prefer, when the 42-degree water steams against cold air and snow occasionally dusts the basalt outcrop. April through June and September into October are the most balanced months: warm hill light, the dry-stone walls of the borgo at their best, the sanctuary excavations open to guided tours. Sagra del Ciaffagnone di San Casciano dei Bagni falls in June.
Buonconvento
Why visit Buonconvento
Buonconvento sits on the plain of the Via Cassia at 147 meters, where the Arbia meets the Ombrone, twenty-five kilometers south of Siena and the main town of the Crete Senesi. The name comes from bonus conventus, happy meeting place, recorded for the first time in 1100.
In August 1313 Emperor Henry VII of Luxembourg died here on his way to Rome, a death the Ghibellines blamed on poisoning. The Sienese walled the borgo in 1379: brick curtain walls with hanging arches, two gates called Porta Senese and Porta Romana.
Porta Romana was destroyed in 1944 by the retreating Germans, the same year the Allies came up the Via Cassia. The Palazzo Pretorio, fourteenth century, has twenty-five podestà coats of arms on its façade and a tower that echoes Siena's Torre del Mangia.
The Museo d'Arte Sacra della Val d'Arbia holds a Madonna by Duccio di Buoninsegna from the 1290s.
What to see in Buonconvento
- Palazzo Pretorio. Fourteenth-century brick palace with twenty-five podestà coats of arms on its façade and a slender tower modeled on Siena's Torre del Mangia.
- Mura di Buonconvento. Brick curtain walls with hanging arches built by Siena in 1379, with Porta Senese to the north (Porta Romana lost in 1944).
- Museo d'Arte Sacra della Val d'Arbia. Sacred art collection in Palazzo Ricci Socini covering the Sienese school from the 13th to 19th centuries, including a Duccio Madonna.
How to get to Buonconvento
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 99 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June paints the Crete green and the spring wheat is at full height by May. September and October are the Crete at their most photographed: bare hills back in clay color, low sun, long shadows. July and August touch the high thirties in the plain; the walls hold heat into the night.
Piancastagnaio
Why visit Piancastagnaio
The name means plain of the chestnut, and the forest that still climbs the slope above the town is what fed it for most of its history: sweet chestnut, sessile oak, beech. The town itself sits at 772 meters, built around a twelfth-century keep that passed to Siena in 1418 and to the Medici in 1559, and the palazzo built into its old defenses in the sixteenth century reads as the Medici layer set directly against the Aldobrandeschi one.
Contrade named Borgo, Castello, Coro and Voltaia divide the centro storico for the August race, while the mining museum keeps the record of an industry, cinnabar and mercury, that ran on the mountain from Etruscan times until it closed in 1982 and that has otherwise left the town to the chestnut trade. What Piancastagnaio adds up to is a place where a volcano's slope has supplied, in turn, timber and food, ore, and a festival calendar, and where the built town still carries each of those histories as a separate, legible layer rather than a single blended one.
What to see in Piancastagnaio
- Rocca Aldobrandesca. Twelfth-century Aldobrandeschi keep at the heart of the centro storico, with a square tower and surviving curtain wall.
- Palazzo Bourbon del Monte. Sixteenth-century Medici-era palazzo built into the medieval defenses, with a courtyard loggia and ceremonial hall.
- Museo Minerario di Sant'Anna. Mining museum on the cinnabar and mercury extraction of Monte Amiata, active from the Etruscans until the mine closed in 1982.
How to get to Piancastagnaio
There is no station we could confirm here, so this one means driving. Perugia is roughly 135 minutes away by road.
Our tip
May through September is the season on the southern Amiata slope. The chestnut woods are open, the air at 772 meters stays cool against the Maremma heat below, and the trails to the volcano summit run from town. The Palio delle Contrade is the second weekend in August, the only date most outsiders know. Crastatone di Piancastagnaio falls in the season.
Radicofani
Why visit Radicofani
Radicofani sits where the rolling clay hills of the Val d'Orcia give way, abruptly, to a volcanic cone: the town rises straight off the plain rather than sitting among gentler slopes, which is why the rock is visible from Pienza, Montalcino, the Cassia road and points as far off as Lago Trasimeno, 60 km away, and why it reads as a landmark rather than a village from any distance. The medieval centro climbs in the same volcanic-basalt stone as the rock beneath it, narrowing as it rises, so that the streets themselves seem to funnel a visitor upward toward the fortress that caps the summit.
That fortress began under the Aldobrandeschi in the 12th century, was expanded by the outlaw and Ghibelline noble who made the rock his raiding base from 1297 to 1303, robbing pilgrims and churchmen on the road below and returning the richest captives to Pope Boniface VIII with gallows-humour notes attached, a story Dante folds into Purgatorio VI and Boccaccio into the Decameron's tenth day. The Sienese extended it again in the 14th century, the Medici in the 16th after Cosimo I bought the territory in 1556, and a powder-magazine explosion in 1735 took off the upper levels, leaving the restored lower fortress and its terrace standing today.
Below the village, at its foot rather than within its walls, sits the old stagecoach inn, a separate register of the town's history: not the fortress and its outlaw but the machinery of travel and hospitality that grew up beneath it to serve the pilgrim road running from Canterbury to Rome, hosting Montaigne, Dickens and Grand Tour travellers moving between Florence and Rome from 1500 to 1850. The town's church, the Romanesque Pieve di San Pietro, and its companion the Chiesa di Sant'Agata, with its Della Robbia altarpiece, belong to the centro itself rather than to the rock above it.
Surroundings widen the picture: Pienza, also UNESCO-listed, lies 30 km north, Montalcino 35 km northwest, and the extinct volcano immediately west offers a cooler, wooded counterpoint of chestnut and beech forest to the bare rock the town is built on, with thermal baths built around a pool 20 km north. The food follows the same Val d'Orcia line as its neighbors: pici with hare ragù, pecorino di Pienza, lardo di Colonnata and finocchiona, with Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano within easy reach.
The Festa Medievale in mid-July recreates the outlaw court that once ruled the summit, and the Festa del Fagiolo in early August celebrates the local cannellini bean. Like other Val d'Orcia hilltop villages, the population has fallen hard, from 2,800 in 1951 to 1,060 today.
The three marks the town carries together, UNESCO, Bandiera Arancione and the pilgrim route, are not separate honors so much as three ways of naming the same fact: a place built for defense and passage that has outlasted both purposes and now stands mostly for itself.
What to see in Radicofani
- Rocca di Radicofani. 12th-c Aldobrandeschi origin, expanded by the Sienese in the 14th century and by the Medici in the 16th, after Cosimo I bought the territory in 1556. A 1735 powder-magazine explosion destroyed the upper levels. The restored lower fortress and its panoramic terrace give the most expansive single view in southern Tuscany.
- Via Francigena + Posta Medicea. The inn stands at the foot of the village, on the pilgrim road from Canterbury to Rome, where it once put up travellers moving between Florence and Rome for three and a half centuries, among them Montaigne and Dickens.
- UNESCO Val d'Orcia centro. An intact medieval centro climbing in volcanic-basalt stone toward the fortress above it. The Pieve di San Pietro is Romanesque; the Chiesa di Sant'Agata holds a Della Robbia altarpiece.
How to get to Radicofani
There is no station we could confirm here, so this one means driving. Perugia is roughly 91 minutes away by road.
✷ We have written about Radicofani
“When the film industry needed a picture of heaven, of the fields a dead hero walks home to, they came and shot it here, and that is the truest thing anyone has ever said about the Val d'Orcia. It is not a place. It is the afterlife as imagined by people who lived in cities. It is how the country looks to men who never spent an hour in it, dreamed up by Florentine bankers five hundred years ago and maintained, beautifully, ever since.”
Read our piece on Radicofani →Val d'Orcia | The Postcard Is Constructed
Our tip
Radicofani is best May–September. The Festa Medievale mid-July (Ghino di Tacco pageant) + Festa del Fagiolo early August are the year's headline events. Summer is hot in the Val d'Orcia but the 814m altitude keeps Radicofani 5-7°C cooler than the lower valleys. Festa degli antichi mestieri a Radicofani falls in June.
Castiglione d'Orcia
Why visit Castiglione d'Orcia
The village stands on a ridge where the land drops toward the Val d'Orcia, the agricultural landscape shaped by Sienese painters and Renaissance estate managers that stretches between Siena and the mountain to the south. First documented in 714, the settlement was then held by the Aldobrandeschi, who built the fortress above the village to hold the medieval road running between the mountain and the Via Francigena, the pilgrim route below.
Siena took the town in 1251 and passed control to the Salimbeni and later the Piccolomini, a shift that put a Sienese family in charge of the second fortress on the neighboring outcrop in the frazione of Rocca d'Orcia. The village center and its outlying frazione form two working parts of one settlement: the walled hill town with its civic square and parish church, and the fortified outcrop a short distance off that once policed the valley approach on its own.
The territory is one of three communes sharing the UNESCO inscription, a status that recognizes the whole valley rather than any single settlement within it. What the record shows, across all of it, is a place whose function was always defensive and administrative before it was scenic: two fortresses set to watch one road, a town divided between them, and a landscape that outgrew its original purpose to become the reason people look at it now.
What to see in Castiglione d'Orcia
- Rocca Aldobrandesca. Aldobrandeschi fortress above the village, documented from the eighth century, walls and keep open as an archaeological site.
- Rocca a Tentennano. Stronghold on a basalt outcrop in the frazione of Rocca d'Orcia, reached by a climb that still shows the defensive logic of the site, controlling the approach along the valley.
- Piazza Vecchietta. Small triangular civic square in the centro storico, the space that carries the painter's adopted name through the village center he left behind.
How to get to Castiglione d'Orcia
There is no station we could confirm here, so this one means driving. Perugia is roughly 152 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months the Val d'Orcia photographers come for, the green hills and the gold stubble depending on the half. The borgo at 540 meters stays cool when the valley floor heats up. July and August push the lower fields into the mid thirties; afternoons thin out the centro storico but the ridge keeps a breeze.
San Quirico d'Orcia
Why visit San Quirico d'Orcia
San Quirico d'Orcia sits at 409 meters on a low rise in the Val d'Orcia, the rolling clay-and-tufa landscape inscribed by UNESCO in 2004 as a cultural landscape shaped by fourteenth and fifteenth-century Sienese governance. The town was a stage on Sigeric the Serious's tenth-century Via Francigena from Canterbury to Rome and has remained a working stop on the route ever since.
The Collegiata dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta was built at the end of the twelfth century over an eighth-century baptistery; the lateral portal added in 1288 is attributed to Giovanni Pisano, then working on the Siena cathedral. The Horti Leonini, the geometric boxwood garden laid out by Diomede Leoni around 1580 inside the town walls, hosts the Forme nel Verde sculpture exhibition every summer since 1971.
Bagno Vignoni, the frazione five kilometers down the road, has a thermal pool at the center of its piazza, used since Etruscan times. Few comuni this small carry UNESCO, thermal and Francigena signals at once.
What to see in San Quirico d'Orcia
- Collegiata dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta. Romanesque parish church built late twelfth century over an eighth-century baptistery, with the 1288 lateral portal attributed to Giovanni Pisano.
- Horti Leonini. Italianate boxwood garden laid out by Diomede Leoni around 1580 inside the town walls, hosting the Forme nel Verde sculpture exhibition since 1971.
- Bagno Vignoni. Frazione five kilometers south, with a sixteenth-century thermal pool at the center of its piazza, fed by springs used since Etruscan times.
How to get to San Quirico d'Orcia
There is no station we could confirm here, so this one means driving. Perugia is roughly 96 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the gold months in the Val d'Orcia: green wheat in spring, ochre stubble by autumn, low light that defines the cypress ridges. The Festa del Barbarossa runs the third Sunday of June with archery, jousts and crossbow contests between the town quarters. July and August are hot and busy; the centro storico fills with day-trippers from Pienza and Montalcino. Festa del Barbarossa a San Quirico d'Orcia falls in June.
Montalcino
Why visit Montalcino
Montalcino sits at 564 meters on a hill south of Siena, the centro storico ringed by walls and crowned by a pentagonal fortress built in 1361. When Florence took Siena in 1555, the Sienese exiles regrouped here and held out for almost four years; the Rocca itself never fell.
That date matters less to most visitors than 1980, when Brunello di Montalcino was named one of the first four Italian wines to receive DOCG status. The vineyards run from the town at 600 meters down to plots at 200, on stony galestro soils that ripen Sangiovese Grosso into a wine that ages for decades.
The Abbey of Sant'Antimo, ten kilometers south, is a Romanesque church first documented in 814 and tied by local legend to a vow by Charlemagne. The town also produces miele, olio, and the white truffles of the surrounding woods.
It carries seven institutional signals at once, more than any other commune in this batch.
What to see in Montalcino
- Rocca di Montalcino. Pentagonal fortress built in 1361 by Sienese architects Mino Foresi and Domenico di Feo, refuge of the Sienese Republic after 1555.
- Abbazia di Sant'Antimo. Romanesque abbey ten kilometers south, first documented in 814, set among olive groves below the town with Gregorian chant still sung.
- Palazzo dei Priori. Thirteenth-century town hall on Piazza del Popolo, slender tower attached, civic seat of the medieval commune.
How to get to Montalcino
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 105 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months locals prefer. The hills are green or gold depending on the half, and the vineyards run their full work cycle. The Sagra del Tordo, a medieval archery contest between the four quarters of the town, takes place the last Sunday of October. Sagra del Cinghiale di Montalcino falls in the season.
San Gimignano
Why visit San Gimignano
San Gimignano sits at 334 meters in the Val d'Elsa, halfway between Firenze and Siena on the medieval pilgrim road to Rome. Patrician families built 72 tower-houses in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries as proofs of wealth and platforms for vendettas; 14 still stand, the tallest being the Torre Grossa at 54 meters.
The town declared independence from the bishops of Volterra in 1199 and grew rich on saffron and Vernaccia, the white wine grown on the surrounding hills and praised since Dante. The Black Death of 1348 broke the boom; San Gimignano lost more than half its population and submitted to Florence.
That collapse is the reason the medieval skyline survived. UNESCO listed the historic centre in 1990 as a complete record of feudal architecture.
Roughly three million visitors come each year, more than 400 times the resident population, and the centro storico empties into the surrounding olive groves once the day-trippers leave.
What to see in San Gimignano
- Torre Grossa. Fifty-four meter civic tower attached to the Palazzo Comunale, the tallest of the surviving 14, open for the climb to the panoramic terrace.
- Piazza della Cisterna. Triangular medieval square paved in brick around an octagonal well of 1287, lined by tower houses and Romanesque palaces.
- Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta. Romanesque parish church on Piazza Duomo, walls covered by Bartolo di Fredi and Lippo Memmi frescoes of Old and New Testament scenes.
How to get to San Gimignano
There is no station we could confirm here, so this one means driving. Firenze is roughly 61 minutes away by road.
✷ We have written about San Gimignano
“We arrived in the afternoon, into the second half of the day’s crowd. Off-season meant it was groups and guides rather than a flood, but the shops were open and doing their worst, the same garbage souvenirs, the same pasta no one local would eat, and we walked through it the way you walk through a thing you have decided not to let ruin your evening. The towers stood over all of it, indifferent, which is their whole talent.”
Read our piece on San Gimignano →San Gimignano | The Town After Seven
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months the town is worth a full day rather than three hours. The buses still come, but late afternoon empties the piazzas and lets the towers take their light. July and August push temperatures past thirty and the centro storico becomes uncomfortable between two and six, when the stone radiates heat. Fiere delle Messi di San Gimignano falls in June.
Monteriggioni
Why visit Monteriggioni
Monteriggioni sits at 274 meters on a natural hillock between Firenze and Siena, eleven kilometers from the Sienese gates. The walls were built between 1213 and 1219, when Siena ran them up as a frontline garrison facing Florentine expansion north.
They are still there. Fourteen square towers, 570 meters of curtain wall, ten meters tall, two gates: Porta Fiorentina to the north, Porta Romana to the south.
Dante used the towers in Inferno XXXI as the image for the giants ringing the central pit of Hell. The fortress was never breached by storm.
Inside, the village is a single irregular Piazza Roma, a Romanesque parish church of Santa Maria Assunta, a few streets that take fifteen minutes to walk end to end. The Via Francigena runs past the southern wall.
The town hosts a medieval festival in early July, when the population inside the walls multiplies for a weekend. The rest of the year, the silence inside the gates is the point.
What to see in Monteriggioni
- Mura di Monteriggioni. Circular 570-meter wall built 1213-1219 by the Sienese, fourteen square towers on equidistant bases, ten meters high, intact.
- Piazza Roma. Single main square inside the walls, ringed by stone houses, with the Romanesque parish church on the north side.
- Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. Romanesque parish church on Piazza Roma, plain stone façade, single nave, the only significant religious building inside the walls.
How to get to Monteriggioni
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Firenze is roughly 96 minutes away by road.
✷ We have written about Monteriggioni
“The wine is the whole economy of these hills, every village with its own, the region’s name stamped on the most famous red in Italy. Tuscan food runs to cured and roasted meat, so the wine ran red to meet it, lighter than you expect, almost fruity, easy, made to sit beside a steak and not to be lectured about. Here is the only wine knowledge you need on this road: it is all good.”
Read our piece on Monteriggioni →Road to Siena | The Long Way Is the Better Way
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months when the walls and the Chianti ridge behind them sit at their best, before the heat closes in. The Festa Medievale takes the second weekend in July, three days of costumed reenactment and feasting inside Piazza Roma, when the village population multiplies. July and August are hot and the day-tripper buses from Firenze and Siena fill the gates between ten and four. Monteriggioni di torri si colora falls in July.
Siena
Why visit Siena
Siena sits at 322 meters on three hills fifty kilometers south of Florence, with which it fought a defining rivalry through the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The historic center has been UNESCO World Heritage since 1995, preserved as a medieval city that worked deliberately to differ from Florentine urban planning.
Piazza del Campo, the shell-shaped square at the meeting point of the three original hills, fans out toward the Palazzo Pubblico, whose construction began in 1297. The Torre del Mangia next to it, built between 1338 and 1348, stands 87 meters tall, the exact height of the Duomo, a deliberate equality between church and state.
The Duomo itself, marble-clad in horizontal black and white bands, holds the inlaid mosaic floor that Vasari called the most beautiful ever made, and sculptures by Donatello, the Pisano family and Michelangelo. The Palio runs twice a year, on 2 July and 16 August: bareback riders representing seventeen contrade circle the Campo three times in roughly ninety seconds.
What to see in Siena
- Piazza del Campo. Shell-shaped medieval square at the meeting point of Siena's three hills, paved in 1349 in red brick divided into nine sectors for the Council of Nine.
- Palazzo Pubblico. Town hall begun in 1297, with the Sala dei Nove holding Lorenzetti's Allegory of Good and Bad Government from 1338-1339.
- Torre del Mangia. Brick tower built 1338-1348 next to the Palazzo Pubblico, 87 meters tall, set deliberately to match the height of the Duomo.
How to get to Siena
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Firenze is roughly 73 minutes away by road.
✷ We have written about Siena
“Before Florence was the banking capital of the known world, the bench belonged to Siena. The word itself comes from the bench, the banco, where the money changers sat, and in the twelfth century, the Sienese ran some of the largest banking houses in Europe, moving the money of popes and kings while Florence was still finding its feet.”
Read our piece on Siena →Siena | What you are really here for
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the dry months in central Tuscany: mild days, full openings at the museums, the Campo busy but not packed. The Palio runs on 2 July and 16 August: the city stops for the four days around each race, the trial races fill the piazza twice a day, and accommodation books out a year ahead. July and August are otherwise hot and crowded with day-trippers from Florence. Palio della Madonna di Provenzano falls in July.
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