The best small towns inside a nature park in the province of Salerno
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The mountains behind this stretch of the Salerno coast are a regional nature park, which means the lemon terraces, the chestnut and holm oak woods and the dry stone walls holding the slopes together are all protected. Houses are built of local limestone and tufo, whitewashed or left the color of the rock, stacked in tiers above the water with vaulted passages running underneath them. The kitchens work with what the park grows and the sea provides: sfusato lemons, anchovies cured in salt, colatura, ndunderi and scialatielli, goat cheese from the high pastures, wine from vines trained on chestnut poles. Spring is the season of the lemon harvest and clear walking weather, autumn the season of grapes, chestnuts and empty paths.
Most people arrive on the standard circuit, which means Sorrento and a boat to Capri, then a coach along the corniche road with photograph stops. It is a good road and the views deserve their reputation, which is exactly the problem in July and August, when the buses queue nose to tail and the ferry queues run along the quay. Naples and Pompeii feed the same pipeline, so the coast absorbs day trippers who have a schedule and no time to walk uphill.
The park does not stop where the coach parks. The same cliffs, the same terraced lemon groves and the same anchovy boats continue east and inland, into fishing harbors, tiny fjord inlets and villages spread across hamlets high in the Lattari, where the paths between them are still the way people get about. Fewer travelers go up there, and the towns below are the smaller ones on this coast and in the hills above it, all inside the park boundary.
Of the 27 communes we have mapped in the province of Salerno, 12 qualify as towns inside a nature park: each sits inside a regional nature park. This list is the small ones, 10 in all, ordered smallest first. The smallest, Conca dei Marini, has 664 residents.
If you are still choosing, we have also written The best towns known for what they grow within 45 minutes of Salerno and The best towns with a World Heritage site within 45 minutes of Salerno.
Why visit Conca dei Marini
Conca dei Marini sits between Amalfi and Furore on the Tyrrhenian coast, a fold of stone houses around the marina and the promontory above it. According to local tradition the settlement was founded as Cossa by the Etruscans and taken by Rome in 272 BC.
The village divides between the clifftop, where the watchtower and the former monastery stand on their spur, and the water's edge, where the parish chapel sits on a rocky outcrop above the fishing cove. Below the road, accessible by stairs or by boat, the sea cave glows green from an underwater fissure.
The village has 664 residents and stays cooler than Amalfi in August. What holds the place together is the drop from cliff to water: a settlement built in a fold of stone that turned its isolation into a pantry, a lookout, and a hiding place for a green cave, and stayed small enough that all three remain within reach of each other.
What to see in Conca dei Marini
- Grotta dello Smeraldo. 45 by 32 meters of water surface, reached by stairs from the road or by boat from the marina below the village.
- Torre di Capo di Conca. On the promontory above the marina, part of the coastal defense network commissioned by the viceroy of Naples.
- Monastero di Santa Rosa. Former Dominican convent on a clifftop spur, founded 1681; the building is now a luxury hotel.
How to get to Conca dei Marini
Salerno is about 34 min away by road.
Our tip
May, June, September and October are the months to come. The sea is warm enough for the grotto boats to run reliably, the coastal road is open, and the Santa Rosa is celebrated on 2 August with a new sfogliatella reinterpretation each year by a guest pastry chef. July and August push the SS163 coastal road into single-file traffic from morning to night; locals walk between the marina and the upper village rather than driving.
Why visit Furore
Furore stretches up the cliff between Praiano and Conca dei Marini on the UNESCO-listed Costiera Amalfitana, six hundred and eighty-eight people across houses that don't share a single piazza. The main settlement sits at 300 meters in the upper Vallone del Furore; the commune drops to sea level at the Fiordo di Furore, a narrow ria carved by the Schiato torrent that flows down from Agerola at 550 meters.
The historian Matteo Camera traced the name to the roar storms make through the gorge. Since the early 1980s the painter Silvio Vetrano's project Il Paese Dipinto has invited artists each September to paint murals on the village walls, which is why Furore is sometimes called the painted village or the village that doesn't exist.
The commune is a Borgo più bello d'Italia and a Città del Vino: the Fiorduva white from the Marisa Cuomo winery is grown on terraces above the fjord.
What to see in Furore
- Fiordo di Furore. Narrow ria cut by the Schiato torrent, southern Italy's only fjord, with a stone bridge crossed by the SS163 and a pebble beach below.
- Il Paese Dipinto. Open-air mural circuit started in 1980 by Silvio Vetrano, with new works added each September by invited Italian and international artists.
- Chiesa di Sant'Elia Profeta. Parish church on the upper part of the village, with a majolica-tiled dome and a small square overlooking the terraces below.
How to get to Furore
Salerno is about 36 min away by road.
Our tip
May, June, September and early October are the strongest months on this stretch of the Amalfi Coast. The sea climbs past twenty degrees, the SS163 buses run on a working timetable, and the Fiordo di Furore beach is accessible without a queue. July and August are full: the day-trippers come up from Amalfi and the small parking pockets on the SS163 fill before nine.
Why visit Atrani
Atrani sits in a narrow ravine between Amalfi and Ravello on the Tyrrhenian coast, twelve hectares total, the smallest commune in Italy by land area. Eight hundred residents live in stone houses stacked up the gorge, connected by stairs and tunnels rather than streets.
The first written record is a letter from Pope Gregory I to the Bishop of Amalfi in 596 AD. Within the maritime Duchy of Amalfi, Atrani was the seat of the aristocracy: the doges were crowned in the Chiesa di San Salvatore de' Birecto, named for the birecto, the cloth cap of office handed to each new ruler.
The piazza, Piazza Umberto I, sits beside the sea behind a low arch. The Dutch graphic artist M.C. Escher visited in the 1930s and made Atrani the model for the impossible architecture of his Metamorphosis series.
The town today survives on day-trippers from Amalfi and a quieter overnight crowd that finds the steps.
What to see in Atrani
- Collegiata di Santa Maria Maddalena. Baroque parish church above the village, with majolica dome and a panoramic terrace overlooking the gorge and the sea.
- Chiesa di San Salvatore de' Birecto. Tenth-century church on Piazza Umberto I where the doges of the Amalfi maritime republic were crowned and invested with the birecto.
- Piazza Umberto I. Small arcaded square behind a sea arch, the social center of the village, served as M.C. Escher's model for several Metamorphosis prints.
How to get to Atrani
Salerno is about 26 min away by road.
Our tip
May, June, September and October are the months that work. The light is long, the sea is warm enough for swimming, and the tunnel down to the beach doesn't bottleneck. July and August push thirty degrees and the day-tripper traffic from Amalfi spills into the piazza after lunch.
Why visit Cetara
Cetara sits at the eastern end of the Amalfi Coast on a narrow inlet between Vietri sul Mare and Maiori, 17 kilometers from Salerno. Saracen pirates established a base here in 879 AD and made repeated raids west along the coast; in 1534 the corsair Sinan Pasha sacked the village and took roughly 300 inhabitants as slaves to North Africa.
The viceregal watchtower above the beach, Torre di Cetara, was rebuilt in the 16th century as part of the coastal defense system commissioned from Naples; it now holds the civic museum of local painters known as the costaioli. Cetara remains the working fishing village of the coast, with a tuna and anchovy fleet still based in the small port.
Colatura di alici, the amber anchovy sauce descended from Roman garum and revived in the Middle Ages by local monks, is still aged in chestnut barrels in the cellars; it received DOP status in 2020. The Chiesa di San Pietro Apostolo on the marina, with its yellow majolica dome, is the visual signature of the village.
What to see in Cetara
- Torre Vicereale. Sixteenth-century viceregal watchtower rebuilt after the 1534 Saracen sack, restored in 2011 and now holding the civic museum of the costaioli painters.
- Chiesa di San Pietro Apostolo. Ninth-century parish church on the marina rebuilt in Baroque style, with a yellow majolica dome that signs the village from the sea.
- Convento di San Francesco. Fourteenth-century Franciscan convent above the port, with a small cloister and a sea-facing terrace, now used for civic events.
How to get to Cetara
Salerno is about 17 min away by road.
Our tip
May, June, September and October are the months Cetara reads best. The fleet runs daily, the festivals around the colatura and the tuna catch land in the warm shoulders, and the SS163 between Vietri and Maiori is open without high-summer queues. July and August fill the small marina and the pebble beaches to either side of the breakwater.
Why visit Praiano
Praiano spreads along a ridge that drops from Monte Sant'Angelo a Tre Pizzi, at 1,444 meters, to the sea, midway between Positano and Amalfi. The Romans called it Plagianum, from the Latin for open sea, a name that fits a town with no single center but a string of settlements strung along the slope.
Vettica Maggiore holds the parish church and the main piazza toward the Positano side. Below the ridge, reached by stairs, Marina di Praia is the only rocky break in the cliffs where boats can land, and the Africana nightclub is cut into the rock above the water.
On the higher ground toward Amalfi, the church and convent mark where the coastal path leaves the town and climbs into the mountain. Gavitella, reached by its own stairway, faces west and keeps the sun after other beaches on this stretch have lost it.
The commune's history as a doges' retreat and Saracen watch post sits above all of this, on the headlands, looking down at a settlement pattern that has changed little: a summer base up high, a working landing below, and a single natural inlet standing in for a harbor. UNESCO listed the Costiera Amalfitana in 1997.
What to see in Praiano
- Chiesa di San Gennaro. Parish church of Vettica Maggiore completed in 1602, Latin-cross plan with three naves, majolica-tiled dome and central barrel vault with lunettes.
- Marina di Praia. Narrow rocky inlet at the foot of Capo Sottile, the historic landing place of Praiano, with the Africana sea-cave nightclub carved into the cliff.
- Santa Maria a Castro e San Domenico. Medieval church and adjoining convent at 364 meters on the slope of Sant'Angelo a Tre Pizzi, with frescoes and a wide view over the coast.
How to get to Praiano
Salerno is about 42 min away by road.
Our tip
May through September is the season the coast was built for: warm water, open trattorias and the Sentiero degli Dei walkable end to end. July and August push past thirty degrees and the SS163 fills, but Praiano is calmer than Positano five kilometers west. The Gavitella beach catches the late sun and stays busy until dusk.
Why visit Ravello
Ravello sits on a spur above the Amalfi Coast, between the valleys of the Dragone and the Reginna Minor, 782 stairs up from Atrani at sea level. The village grew rich in the 12th and 13th centuries as a satellite of the Amalfi maritime republic, when patrician families like the Rufolo, Confalone and d'Afflitto built their houses on the ridge to escape the coastal raids.
The upper village holds the older churches and the social life of the piazza; the villas that made the town's later reputation sit toward the cliff edge, their gardens and belvederes facing the water. One villa's garden was seen by Richard Wagner in 1880 and identified by him with Klingsor's enchanted garden in his opera Parsifal, and he wrote the opera's second act on the strength of it.
The Ravello Festival began playing orchestral concerts in that same garden in 1953, the year the council decided to use Wagner's visit to rebuild a postwar economy. The town's shape, ridge above, stairs down to the coast, patrician houses turned toward the sea, is the record of why families climbed here in the first place and what they built once they had reason to stay.
What to see in Ravello
- Villa Rufolo. Patrician residence built 1270 with Moorish cloister and terraced gardens; setting for the Ravello Festival concerts and the second act of Wagner's Parsifal.
- Villa Cimbrone. Cliff-edge villa restored after 1904 by Lord Grimthorpe, ending in the Terrazza dell'Infinito, a marble belvedere over the Gulf of Salerno.
- Duomo di Ravello. Cathedral on Piazza Vescovado, founded 1086, with the bronze portal cast by Barisano da Trani in 1179 and the marble pulpit signed by Niccolò di Bartolomeo da Foggia in 1272.
How to get to Ravello
Salerno is about 33 min away by road.
Our tip
May, June, September and early October are the months Ravello reads best. The temperature on the ridge runs three to five degrees cooler than on the coast below, the festival concerts on the Villa Rufolo belvedere run from late June through August, and the gardens are full without the day-tripper bus queues of high summer. July and August fill the SITA bus from Amalfi and the road up the Dragone valley, and the festival's evening concerts under the stars are the reason most overnight visitors come.
Why visit Minori
Minori sits at sea level on the Amalfi Coast between Maiori and Atrani, named for the Rheginna Minor, the smaller of the two streams that cut down through the cliffs. The Romans built a coastal villa here in the first century; its frescoed cryptoporticus and atrium pool survive almost intact under the modern town, four blocks from the marina.
The Basilica di Santa Trofimena, rebuilt in the eighteenth century after the 987 cathedral was destroyed, holds the saint's relics in a crypt remodeled in the 1700s. The town has the longest unbroken pasta-making tradition on the coast and is the home of Sal De Riso, the pastry chef whose delizia al limone, built in 1978, became the signature dessert of the Costiera.
The Sentiero dei Limoni links Minori uphill to Maiori through working lemon terraces. UNESCO listed the coast in 1997.
What to see in Minori
- Villa Romana Marittima. First-century patrician seaside villa, roughly 2,500 square meters, with frescoed cryptoporticus, atrium and bath complex preserved beneath the modern town.
- Basilica di Santa Trofimena. Eighteenth-century basilica rebuilt after the 987 cathedral was destroyed, with a Latin-cross plan and a crypt holding the relics of the patron saint.
- Marina di Minori. Short pebbled beach at the mouth of the Reginna Minor, lined with pasticcerie and the town's lemon-decorated waterfront.
How to get to Minori
Salerno is about 24 min away by road.
Our tip
May, June, September and October are the months the coast was built for: open sea, warm water, and lighter crowds than the July and August peak. July and August push past thirty degrees and the Marina di Minori beach fills by ten in the morning; the Villa Romana stays cool because it sits below ground. November through March is winter on the Costiera.
Why visit Positano
Positano is built on the rugged limestone of the Lattari Mountains, which is why locals call it the città verticale: the ground itself will not allow a level street in the centro storico, and every path either climbs or descends. The settlement grew from the ninth century around the Benedictine monastery that kept the icon, and the frazione of Nocelle above the town shows how far the climb goes, linked to the coast below by the ridge trail rather than by road.
After being sacked by Pisa in the thirteenth century, the town fortified itself with watchtowers and prospered as a small fish-trading port, a working settlement long before it was a resort. The twentieth century made it a writer's refuge: John Steinbeck described it in Harper's Bazaar in 1953 as a dream place that isn't quite real.
Today Positano runs almost entirely on summer tourism, with a UNESCO Amalfi Coast inscription and a Bandiera Blu beach. The vertical geography that once forced fishermen and monks onto narrow terraces is the same feature now sold as a view: the town's difficulty of ground became its main asset.
What to see in Positano
- Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. Majolica tiled dome over the church around which the village grew, the icon inside marking the spot where the sailors are said to have set the Madonna down.
- Spiaggia Grande. Main pebble beach below the centro storico, the postcard image of the Amalfi Coast, with the pastel facades of the village rising directly above the sand.
- Sentiero degli Dei. Path of the Gods, the high ridge trail of the Monti Lattari from Agerola to Nocelle, a frazione of Positano, with the Faraglioni of Capri offshore.
How to get to Positano
Salerno is about 54 min away by road.
Our tip
May, June and September are the open months on the Amalfi Coast, water warm enough for swimming and the road still navigable. July and August fill the village past capacity, with day boats running from Capri and Sorrento and the SS163 backed up for hours; locals avoid the centro storico between eleven and four. April and October stay quiet, with the Path of the Gods at its best and the town easier to walk.
Why visit Tramonti
Tramonti is the Amalfi Coast that does not face the sea. The comune covers thirteen hamlets on the inland Lattari slopes above Maiori, with the seat of Polvica at 321 meters and the higher frazioni climbing past six hundred, each linked by old mule tracks rather than a single main street.
It was an important town of the Maritime Republic of Amalfi between 839 and around 1200, sitting on the inland side of the ridge that divides the coast from the Sorrento peninsula and, by way of the Valico di Chiunzi, from the Sarno valley beyond. Two exports carried the village name further than the village itself: fiordilatte mozzarella from the high pastures, and the long-fermented pizza dough that emigrants took north in the post-war years to found most of the historic pizzerias of Piedmont and Lombardy.
The slopes fall within the UNESCO Amalfi Coast site and the Monti Lattari Park, with chestnut forest and limoncello distilleries on every road. A comune this scattered, with its parishes on separate ridges and its produce known abroad before the place itself, reads less like one town than a federation of hamlets that happened to share a name.
What to see in Tramonti
- Convento di San Francesco. Fifteenth-century Franciscan convent at Polvica with cloister and a rare wooden Christ, founded by Beata Margherita Cigala in 1474.
- Costa d'Amalfi Tramonti DOC vineyards. Terraced parcels climbing the Lattari slopes at a pitch among the steepest viticultures in Italy, worked by hand where machinery cannot stand.
- Thirteen frazioni of Tramonti. Hamlets scattered up the ridges between 250 and 700 meters, each with its own parish and traditions, connected by old mule tracks.
How to get to Tramonti
Salerno is about 38 min away by road.
Our tip
May through September is the Amalfi calendar, with the inland Lattari side cooler than the coastal road and the vineyard work running into harvest in late September and October. July and August see day-trippers walking up from Maiori for cooler air and lunch; the road to Valico di Chiunzi takes the overflow from Ravello and Amalfi. The chestnut harvest falls in October and November and Pizza a Metro festivals happen in late summer.
Why visit Amalfi
Amalfi sits at the mouth of a deep gorge in the Lattari mountains, six meters above the sea, four thousand seven hundred and twenty-nine people on a stretch of coast that carries its name. The town was capital of a duchy trading with Byzantium, North Africa and the Levant before Pisa and Venice eclipsed it, and the Tavola Amalfitana, drawn up here, codified Mediterranean maritime law in the Middle Ages for ships far beyond this shore.
The gorge structures the town as much as the sea does: the centro is stacked on the narrow flat ground at the gorge's mouth, the cathedral staircase climbing straight up from the piazza, while the valley behind runs inland and upward, its stream once turning the wheels of the paper mills before the water reaches the harbor below. Upper gorge and lower marina were parts of one working town, the water dropping from the mills to the boatyards to the sea.
The coast was UNESCO-listed in 1997 and the commune is Cittaslow. What made Amalfi a capital was the same terrain that now makes it a resort: a sheltered cut in the mountains with deep water at its foot, close enough to the sea to build ships and drawn up on to the rock to keep the town off the water's threat.
What to see in Amalfi
- Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea. Romanesque facade at the top of the staircase, with the Chiostro del Paradiso attached to one side, striped stone and interlaced arches around a cloister garden.
- Museo della Carta. Paper museum in the Valle dei Mulini, set inside a thirteenth-century working mill where the machinery for hand-forming sheets is still operated.
- Arsenale della Repubblica. Twelfth-century stone-vaulted shipyard near the marina, the only surviving naval arsenal of the four Italian maritime republics.
How to get to Amalfi
Salerno is about 35 min away by road.
Our tip
May, June, September and early October are the strongest months. The sea climbs past twenty degrees, the ferries to Capri and Positano run on full schedules, and the SS163 cliff road moves before and after the day-trip peak. July and August are full: the town fills with day-trippers arriving by bus, ferry and private boat, and the duomo steps become a queue between ten and four.
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