Letters
The letters
We write letters from the Italian towns we visit: the town, what is worth eating there, and when to turn up. It is free, and you can leave whenever you like.
What you get
| No email needed | All 1,000 towns, the 759 ranked lists and the trip planner, open to anyone. Nothing to sign. | Free |
| The letter | One email at a time. Everything we published since the last one is linked inside it and open to read for four weeks. | Free |
| Travel | The whole archive with no time limit, the chat, where we answer what you ask, and every book we have written, on the members page. | €9a month · €80 a year |
| Move | Everything in Travel, one 60-minute call on where to move, a written review of up to 5 towns on your shortlist, and 3 follow-up questions over the 12 months. | from €250a year |
Everything we write is free to read for its first four weeks. After that the city guides and the dispatches stay with the paid subscribers, who keep them for good.
Read a sample letter
Chioggia | Everyone is wrong about this town
It’s not an alternative to Venice
Our newest free town letter, exactly as subscribers got it →
Travel opens the archive with no time limit, the chat, and every book, for €9 a month or €80 a year. Move adds a year of help choosing where to live, from €250 a year. Both are on the letter’s own site. Take the annual plan and you pay 10% less, forever. All three tiers are on the membership page.
The archive · 113
The letter is free, and everything we write is open to read for its first four weeks. After that it moves to the members' archive, which is why most rows below say Members.
The week's town · 32
- Chioggia | Everyone is wrong about this town2026-11-12
- Gubbio | The Third Tower2026-11-03
- Todi | The Beverly Hills of Umbria2026-10-26
- Perugia | The City upon a HillMembers2026-10-06
- Seravezza & Stazzema | The Mountain Takes and GivesMembers2026-09-11
- Peccioli | The Giants of GarbageMembers2026-09-08
- Tarquinia and Cerveteri | Who the hell are the etruscans?!Members2026-09-04
- Viterbo and Bomarzo | The Monsters Are Not in the GardenMembers2026-09-02
- Capranica | The stop on the journeyMembers2026-08-27
- Caprarola | The town that became a drivewayMembers2026-08-26
- Assisi | The Church He Would Have ChosenMembers2026-08-19
- Lago Trasimeno | Never Compete with the SeaMembers2026-08-12
- Ronciglione | Baptism into the Other ItalyMembers2026-08-05
- Brugnato | The Town With No PiazzaMembers2026-07-16
- Portovenere | The Slowest Coffee in ItalyMembers2026-07-13
- Arezzo | The City That Ignores YouMembers2026-07-03
- Siena | What you are really here forMembers2026-07-02
- San Gimignano | The Town After SevenMembers2026-06-30
- San Miniato | The Truffle I Couldn't TasteMembers2026-06-18
- Pontedera | The Museum That Is More Than the VespaMembers2026-06-16
- Genova | Above the PortMembers2026-06-11
- Pistoia | Mini-Florence with Better PastryMembers2026-06-08
- Lerici | An Old Friend on the Gulf of PoetsMembers2026-06-04
- Livorno | The City With No Time For YouMembers2026-05-27
- Pisa | Beyond the TowerMembers2026-05-19
- Lucca | The City You Cannot PhotographMembers2026-05-07
- Forte dei Marmi | The Rich Town You Can't Fly ToMembers2026-04-26
- Viareggio | The cat at the end of the roadMembers2026-04-24
- Pietrasanta | Old Money, Long AfternoonsMembers2026-04-22
- Camaiore | I Could Get Old HereMembers2026-04-21
- Barga | The Scottish AccentMembers2026-04-21
- Casoli | The Village That Decided to Be InterestingMembers2026-04-21
Guide · 7
- Guide | Umbria2026-11-05Free on the site: our Umbria guide →
- Guide | TusciaMembers2026-09-24Free on the site: our Tuscia guide →
- Guide | The Riviera di LevanteMembers2026-07-22Free on the site: our Riviera di Levante guide →
- Guide | Tuscan MainlandMembers2026-07-09Free on the site: our Tuscan Mainland guide →
- Guide | The Arno CorridorMembers2026-06-19Free on the site: our Arno Corridor guide →
- Guide | The Apuan AlpsMembers2026-05-15Free on the site: our Apuan Alps guide →
- Guide | Versilia, the Best Part of ItalyMembers2026-04-29Free on the site: our Versilia guide →
Reading Table · 5
- Meeting with Zeffirelli and the beauty of mortadellaMembers2026-08-11
- Versace, Spello, and a scarf carried against the draftMembers2026-07-21
- Urbino and the man who tolls the bellsMembers2026-07-14
- Vercelli, a two-year ham, and the singer Italy believed was cursedMembers2026-07-07
- Tuscia, Uffizi, and a woman who owes you nothingMembers2026-07-01
Dispatch · 69
- Traditional Italian Cooking2026-11-06
- ‘Nduja | The salami that wants to melt2026-11-02
- Pastiglie Leone | The happiness factory2026-10-29
- The Umbrian Circle | Town Tasting in a Day2026-10-27
- There is nothing romantic about the mafia2026-10-22
- Quickstart for Italian politics2026-10-21
- Where to Move in Italy, Part 6: The Best TownsMembers2026-10-18
- Where to Move in Italy, Part 5: The Other HalfMembers2026-10-17
- Where to Move in Italy, Part 4: The PostcardMembers2026-10-16
- Where to Move in Italy, Part 3: The CityMembers2026-10-15
- Where to Move in Italy, Part 2: The Small TownMembers2026-10-14
- Where to Move in Italy, Part 1: The End of the RoadMembers2026-10-13
- The postcard Italian hilltop town is a product of survivalMembers2026-09-25
- How to buy olive oil like an ItalianMembers2026-08-24
- Why Italy Buys the Water It Already HasMembers2026-08-17
- The most Italian event: the sagraMembers2026-08-14
- The Italian soda culture is for grown-upsMembers2026-08-13
- This is how Italian disco diedMembers2026-08-10
- Amaro | The joy of bitternessMembers2026-08-04
- Buying an apartment in ItalyMembers2026-08-03
- Focaccia | The Bread That Takes the Shape of the TownMembers2026-07-20
- Cinque Terre | How To Do It RightMembers2026-07-16
- Pesto | The Sauce of Having NothingMembers2026-07-15
- Where to stay in ItalyMembers2026-07-11
- The Rules For Slow Travel In ItalyMembers2026-07-10
- Maremma | The Last Cowboys of TuscanyMembers2026-07-08
- Val d'Orcia | The Postcard Is ConstructedMembers2026-07-08
- The Iron Coast | The Wrong SeaMembers2026-07-07
- How Italian Healthcare Actually WorksMembers2026-07-06
- Bolgheri | The story of an amaroMembers2026-07-04
- Road to Siena | The Long Way Is the Better WayMembers2026-07-01
- The Sweetness of Doing NothingMembers2026-06-29
- The Mediterranean Diet Is an American InventionMembers2026-06-26
- Torta Salata | Iza's Sunday CounterMembers2026-06-25
- What Three Writers in Italy Told Me to VisitMembers2026-06-24
- Baccalà Vino e Merendino | Riccardo's Living RoomMembers2026-06-24
- Tigullio Roadtrip | Four Versions of the Same LiguriaMembers2026-06-23
- Ceci | Three Ingredients and a FireMembers2026-06-22
- How the Italian bar worksMembers2026-06-19
- Italian Food Shops, ExplainedMembers2026-06-10
- Piccolo Tito | The Other TitoMembers2026-06-09
- Magra Delta Roadtrip | A Tagine, a Lighthouse, and a Dead Roman CityMembers2026-06-05
- Caciucco | A Bowl of Red SeaMembers2026-06-03
- How the aperitivo actually worksMembers2026-06-02
- How to order at a restaurant like an Italian.Members2026-05-25
- Bagni di Pisa | The Tuesday CureMembers2026-05-22
- Montecatini Terme | The Bath Without PeopleMembers2026-05-22
- When to come to ItalyMembers2026-05-18
- The walk after dinnerMembers2026-05-14
- Ristorante La Posta | The Panigacci DinnerMembers2026-05-13
- Driving in Italy for the first timeMembers2026-05-12
- Ristorante Ulisse | A Plate of Raw PorciniMembers2026-05-11
- Biroldo and Sopressata | The Mountains Cook With EverythingMembers2026-05-08
- Abetone & Tuscan Alps | A Ski Village in AugustMembers2026-05-06
- Apuan Roadtrip | A Steak, a Friend, and the Long Way Down to LuccaMembers2026-05-05
- The LunigianaMembers2026-05-04
- Erbe | The Greens on the SideMembers2026-05-01
- Marina di Pietrasanta: A Weekend in MayMembers2026-04-30
- How to Park a Car in ItalyMembers2026-04-29
- Lardo di Colonnata | The fat that needs nothingMembers2026-04-29
- Tordello | What the tordello saysMembers2026-04-29
- Trattoria Gatto Nero | The room I’d bring her toMembers2026-04-29
- How to find free beaches in ItalyMembers2026-04-29
- Colonnata, Carrara, and the Marble Mines | The White Mountain And The FatMembers2026-04-29
- How to Pick the Right Place to Eat in ItalyMembers2026-04-28
- Marina di Pietrasanta | A Weekend in MayMembers2026-04-27
- The Fiorentina Steak | Leave it aloneMembers2026-04-24
- Torre del Lago | The town at the end of the roadMembers2026-04-23
- Trattoria da Carlino | It's Just FishMembers2026-04-21
The books
