The 6 best olive oil towns inside a nature park in Umbria
Umbrian olive oil tastes of green almond and black pepper, and it is at its best in the weeks after the November harvest, when the mills run late and the new oil goes onto grilled bread with nothing but salt. The trees climb the limestone slopes in low stone-walled terraces, silver against hill towns built from the same pale rock they stand on. Frantoi open their doors to anyone who wants to watch the paste go under the press. The season brings cold mornings, woodsmoke, wild boar on the menu and truffles from the same hillsides.
Most visitors to Umbria give their days to Assisi, and the basilica earns the coach parks it has acquired. The pilgrimage route, the frescoes and the proximity to Perugia mean the town is busy from Easter through October, and the streets below the basilica have adjusted their shopfronts accordingly. It is a serious place, but it is not a quiet one, and it is rarely where the oil actually comes from.
The groves carry on well past the famous churches, into country that Umbria has formally protected: the gorges of the Nera, the wooded ridge of Monte Subasio, the reedbeds of Lake Trasimeno, the Tiber's slow middle stretch. The towns here belong to the national association of olive-oil towns, and each one sits inside a regional nature park, so a morning at a mill can end with an afternoon on a marked path. Fewer people make the turn off the main road to reach them.
Of the 47 communes we have mapped in Umbria, 6 qualify as olive oil towns inside a nature park: each belongs to the national association of olive-oil towns, and each sits inside a regional nature park. The smallest, Paciano, has 957 residents.
Two more lists worth reading alongside this one: The best hidden towns inside a nature park in the province of Perugia and The 9 best small olive oil towns in Umbria.
Paciano
Why visit Paciano
The town is first documented in 917, in an imperial charter of Berengar I, and appears again in 1260 as a castrum, a fortified site. Perugia rebuilt the walls and main tower between 1461 and 1473, using the site as a watch-post over the western approach to the lake below.
Inside the circuit, three parallel streets are linked by orthogonal alleys, a layout that carries the Renaissance palace with the Vignola staircase, the oldest noble residence in the town, and the 17th-century Palazzo Cennini, once the summer residence of a cardinal. The gates and towers sit at the edge of this grid, facing outward toward the water.
Olive oil from the slopes that drop toward the shore is the present-day specialty. What remains is a small fortified grid, built to watch a lake, that turned its military purpose into a domestic one once the watching was no longer needed.
What to see in Paciano
- Medieval walls. About 600 meters of circuit, with the three original gates named Fiorentina, Perugina and Rastrella still standing among the eight towers.
- Palazzo Baldeschi. Assembled from earlier tower houses, with a staircase attributed to Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola. Now used as an exhibition and cultural space.
- Rocca Buitoni. The oldest surviving palace in the town, built as a noble residence inside the walls, with a small private chapel.
How to get to Paciano
Perugia is roughly 44 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months for Paciano. The slopes of Monte Petrarvella hold the wildflowers, Trasimeno is warm enough to swim from late May, and the olive groves run from green to silver-gold across the half-year. The Infiorata fills the three parallel streets each Corpus Domini in late May or June. Sagra dello Strozzaprete falls in August.
Arrone
Why visit Arrone
Arrone sits at 243 meters on the left bank of the Nera in the lower Valnerina, the upper part of the village a 9th- or 10th-century noble castle with its walls and alleys still in their medieval layout. The town grew up around the fortified hill and spread along the river as the danger faded.
The Cascata delle Marmore, the largest man-made waterfall in the world at 165 meters across three tiers, is five kilometers downstream; the Romans cut the original channel in 271 BC to drain the marshes around Rieti, and successive interventions through the 16th century gave the falls their present form. The Cammino di San Francesco passes through, and the village is the base for kayaking and rafting on the lower Nera.
The Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista in the upper castle holds 15th-century frescoes of the Umbrian school, and the collegiate Chiesa di Santa Maria in the lower village was rebuilt in the 16th century on Romanesque foundations.
Osteria dello Sportello have been named by a guide.
What to see in Arrone
- Castello di Arrone. Upper part of the village, the 9th-10th century castle, walls and steep medieval alleys preserved to the original layout.
- Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista. Fourteenth-century church inside the upper castle, with 15th-century frescoes of the Umbrian school, including a Madonna and saints.
- Chiesa Collegiata di Santa Maria. Sixteenth-century collegiate church in the lower village, rebuilt on Romanesque foundations, with frescoes by Vincenzo Tamagni.
How to get to Arrone
Terni is roughly 34 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months for Arrone. The Nera runs full from snowmelt and spring rain, the rafting season opens, and the Cascata delle Marmore releases on a fixed schedule that suits the morning light. July and August touch the mid-thirties in the lower Valnerina; the falls cool the air around the basin, and the Cammino di San Francesco walkers pass through early.
Bettona
Why visit Bettona
Bettona sits at 353 meters on a hill north of the Colli Martani, looking across the cultivated plain toward Perugia. The Etruscans built here in the seventh century BC, and Bettona remains the only known Etruscan settlement east of the Tiber.
Stretches of polygonal walls from that period are still visible at the base of the medieval circuit, mixed with later Roman blocks. The town became a municipium under Augustus, declined during the barbarian invasions, was sacked by Totila in 548, and rebuilt as a self-governing commune by the late twelfth century.
Papal rule held from 1648 to unification. The Pinacoteca Civica, housed in the Palazzetto del Podestà on Piazza Cavour, keeps two paintings by Pietro Perugino (Sant'Antonio da Padova and Madonna della Misericordia), tabernacle panels attributed to El Greco, and Etruscan funerary stones and architectural terracottas from the territory.
The olive groves below town carry the Città dell'Olio designation.
What to see in Bettona
- Mura etrusche. Stretches of polygonal Etruscan walls visible at the base of the medieval circuit, from the seventh and sixth centuries BC.
- Pinacoteca Civica. Civic art gallery in the Palazzetto del Podestà holding two Perugino paintings, tablets attributed to El Greco and Etruscan finds.
- Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore. Main parish church on Piazza Cavour, with a reordered interior holding altarpieces and a Crocifissione fresco.
How to get to Bettona
Perugia is roughly 27 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the windows that work. The olive harvest runs from late October through November and gives the town its working rhythm, with the frantoi pressing into the evening. July and August are dry and hot; the centro storico is small enough that midday empties it. Sagra dell'Oca falls in July.
Magione
Why visit Magione
Magione sits at 299 meters on a hill east of Lake Trasimeno, fifteen kilometers from Perugia. The name comes from the Knights Hospitaller, who built a hospital here in the mid-twelfth century dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and called their convent Maison in their own language.
The original nucleus stood on the Perugia-Tuscany route and grew into the fortified base that still anchors the town today. The lower town is organized around two medieval poles: the castle complex near the old route, and the quadrangular tower rising thirty meters over the settlement, built in the same period by the same Order.
The vineyards on the surrounding hills lie between 250 and 350 meters above sea level, and the town's territory extends down to the lake's eastern shore. In October 1502, the castle hosted a plot against Cesare Borgia: his own captains and allies conspired against him inside its walls.
Niccolò Machiavelli, on diplomatic mission for Florence, learned the details and passed them to Borgia, who dismantled the conspirators within months. A hospital, a tower, and a plot against a Borgia: the town's history reads as a sequence of episodes gathered around the same fortified point on the road between Perugia and Tuscany.
Osteria Rosso di Sera have been named by a guide.
What to see in Magione
- Castello dei Cavalieri di Malta. The fortified complex built by the Knights Hospitaller stands as the town's anchor, its walls the setting where the Conspiracy of Magione was plotted against Cesare Borgia.
- Torre dei Lambardi. Thirty-meter quadrangular tower built between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries by the Gerosolimitani Knights, three floors and a summit terrace.
- Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista. Parish church inside the castle complex, dedicated to the saint of the original Hospitaller foundation.
How to get to Magione
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 23 minutes away by road.
✷ We have written about Magione
“The lake is like a sanatorium compared to the sea. It’s relaxed. It’s calm. It’s silent. To find this level of almost disturbing quietness, you either go up into the mountains, or you really need to know your way around the sea to find that particular spot not overrun by vacationers and beach people. In Trasimeno, this is easy. Even the most popular towns like Castiglione or Passignano sit in quiet harmony with the stillness of the water.”
Read our piece on Magione →Lago Trasimeno | Never Compete with the Sea
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the working months on the eastern Trasimeno: clear lake light, olive groves on the hills above, evenings cool enough to walk between the Castello and the Torre. July and August reach the low thirties in the basin; the lake helps but weekends fill with Perugia and Florence day-trippers and the lakefront frazione of San Feliciano runs heavy. The olive harvest in late October and November turns the territory busy with frantoi at full capacity. Festa del Giacchio - Sagra del Pesce del Lago Trasimeno falls in July.
Spello
Why visit Spello
The centro storico climbs the lower southern flank of Monte Subasio, still contained within the circuit of walls raised when the town was renamed Splendidissima Colonia Julia by Augustus. Before that it was Hispellum under the Umbrians.
The Roman gates and stretches of wall from the Augustan period were not rebuilt over, so the line of the ancient town is still readable in the streets that climb from them today. The same streets carry the Infiorata each June and the fresco Pinturicchio completed for the chapel he painted in Santa Maria Maggiore, two things separated by roughly fifteen centuries but occupying the same short stretch of the old town: the chapel's Annunciation, Nativity and Christ Among the Doctors sit near the piazza the petal pictures are laid across.
A Roman villa with ten mosaic floors, found only in 2005 and left in place under cover, adds a third layer beneath the town that is still being uncovered rather than one that was always on view. The town's Roman skeleton, its painted chapel, and a floor uncovered within living memory all sit within the same small radius, which is unusual: most places show one era at a time, Spello keeps three in view at once.
La Cantina di Spello have been named by a guide.
What to see in Spello
- Cappella Baglioni. The Cappella Bella, commissioned by Troilo Baglioni, with four sibyls ranged across the vault above the painted scenes below.
- Santa Maria Maggiore. Twelfth-century church on Piazza Matteotti, its interior built around the fresco cycle and the later panel it houses.
- Porta Venere e Torri di Properzio. First-century BC gate flanked by two dodecagonal towers, still standing at close to full height with the stonework legible course by course.
How to get to Spello
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 33 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months for Spello. The slopes of Monte Subasio above town carry wildflowers, Cammino di San Francesco walkers pass through, and the Infiorata weekend on Corpus Domini in late May or June is the most concentrated day on the calendar. July and August touch the mid-thirties on the valley floor; the centro storico at 280 meters stays a few degrees cooler in the upper streets, but most visitors come early or wait until after seven. Borgo diVino tour falls in October.
Foligno
Why visit Foligno
Foligno sits on the left bank of the Topino where the river leaves the Apennines and meets the plain of the Clitunno, the point at which the mountains give way to the Umbrian Valley. The town was called Fulginium in antiquity, and Cicero mentions the prefecture in two surviving fragments.
The Trinci ruled the town from 1305 to 1439, and the palace that carries their name still stands at its center, with the cathedral facing the same square where the town's tournament has run twice a year since its revival. The city's oldest church predates the Trinci period by centuries, its site going back to an 8th-century chapel, while the abbey in the hills above town was founded still earlier, in 1084, its cloister finished in 1229.
Between the ancient prefecture, the medieval abbey, the Trinci court, and the print workshop that put Dante into type, Foligno reads as a valley crossing point where successive centuries each left a building rather than displacing what came before.
Une, Osteria Bacerotti, Cucinaa and 2 more have been named by a guide.
What to see in Foligno
- Palazzo Trinci. Seat of the Trinci signoria 1305-1439, frescoed by Gentile da Fabriano and Jacopo Bellini, now holding the Pinacoteca and archaeological museum.
- Cattedrale di San Feliciano. Romanesque cathedral on Piazza della Repubblica, built over the tomb of the bishop-martyr buried here in 251 AD.
- Basilica di Santa Maria Infraportas. Oldest church in the city on the site of an 8th-century chapel, frescoes by Nelli, Ugolino di Gisberto, Alunno and Mezzastris.
How to get to Foligno
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 42 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months locals prefer. The Quintana runs twice a year, the June and September editions filling the rioni for a week each. April through October is also the season for the Topino river paths and the climb up to Sassovivo. Festevolezze falls in July.
More from Anywhere Italy
- The best hidden towns inside a nature park in the province of Perugia
The 9 best small olive oil towns in Umbria- The best hidden olive oil towns that eat well in Umbria
- The prettiest villages inside a nature park within 90 minutes of Perugia
The best olive oil towns that eat well in the province of Perugia- The best olive oil towns you can reach by train in the province of Perugia