The 8 best towns on a walking route that eat well in the province of Perugia
Eight towns: what each is best for, what a home costs, and the catch. A square meter runs from €690 in Trevi to €2,200 in Assisi.
We've written about 5 of these 8. From the 1,000 towns picked by Peter Benei.
92 towns written about, 908 to go. Follow along, free: Subscribe on Substack

Walking in the province of Perugia means limestone underfoot, olive terraces stepping down toward the Valle Umbra, and towns built from the pink and white stone quarried out of the hills they sit on. The old routes, the Via di Francesco and the Via Amerina among them, connect stages that were designed around where a traveler could eat and sleep, and that logic still holds. Autumn is the season the food justifies the distance: new oil pressed in November, black truffle grated over strangozzi, lentils from the high plains, wild fennel worked through pork by butchers whose trade gave the country a word for the shop. Spring brings wild asparagus and the long light down the valley, and the paths dry out early.
In practice most people give Umbria a couple of days and spend them in Perugia, parking beneath the city and riding the escalators up through the Rocca Paolina to Corso Vannucci. It is a serious place, with the Galleria Nazionale and a medieval fountain worth the queue, and in August and over the jazz festival the center is full to the walls. The coach parks fill, the restaurants on the corso turn tables at speed, and the surrounding hills are seen from a viewpoint rather than walked.
The paths do not stop at the city gates. The same ridges, the same oil, the same butchers and the same guide-listed kitchens continue north toward the Tiber valley and south along the edge of the Sibillini, through towns that happen to be stages on a route somebody has been walking for centuries. Fewer visitors arrive on foot, and those who do tend to eat better for it. These are the towns where the walking and the table line up.
Of the 37 communes we have mapped in the province of Perugia, 8 qualify as towns on a walking route that eat well: each is a stage on one of the long historic walking routes, and a dining guide has named a table in each. The smallest, Norcia, has 4,457 residents.
Two more lists worth reading alongside this one: The best towns on a walking route that eat well within 90 minutes of Perugia and The best hill towns on a walking route within 90 minutes of Perugia.
All the towns within a day trip: day trips from Perugia.
1. Norcia
Best for a ski week. There is a mapped ski area in the comune.
1 h 33 min from Terni · 4,457 people

Why visit Norcia
Norcia sits at 604 meters on a high plateau on the Umbrian side of the Monti Sibillini, ancient Nursia of the Sabines, fortified in the 3rd century BC by Rome. Saints Benedict and his twin sister Scholastica were born here in 480; the Benedictine Order and the Ora et Labora motto that shaped Western monasticism began on this piazza.
The Basilica di San Benedetto rises on the traditional birthplace, built between 1290 and 1338 over a pre-existing crypt. On 30 October 2016 a magnitude 6.5 earthquake destroyed the nave; only the façade was left standing.
Reconstruction completed on 30 October 2025, nine years to the day, with the original stones and earthquake-resistant technology. The town gave its name to norcineria, the Italian word for quality pork delicatessen, after centuries of Norcia butchers specializing in wild boar and pork.
Black truffle from the Valnerina, lentils from Castelluccio, and ricotta from the high pastures complete the table.
Vespasia (MICHELIN and Gambero Rosso), Granaro del Monte (MICHELIN and Locali Storici) and Casale nel Parco (Gambero Rosso) are listed in food guides.
What to see in Norcia
- Basilica di San Benedetto. Built 1290-1338 over the traditional birthplace of Saints Benedict and Scholastica, rebuilt with original stones after 2016, reopened 30 October 2025.
- Castellina. Fortified papal stronghold designed by Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola in 1554, on Piazza San Benedetto, now the Museo Civico e Diocesano.
- Piazza San Benedetto. Civic and religious heart of the centro storico, with the Palazzo Comunale, the basilica, the Castellina and the statue of Benedict at the center.
How to get to Norcia
Terni is about 1 h 33 min away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months for Norcia. The plateau holds its color, the lentil fields of Castelluccio bloom from mid-June into July, and the high pastures are open for hiking. July and August stay cooler than the Umbrian valleys at 604 meters, but the town fills with festival crowds for the Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Nero on the last weekend of February and again for sagras through the summer.
2. Spello
Best for a slow weekend. The Touring Club gives it its orange flag for small inland towns.
31 min from Perugia · homes €1,000 to €1,450 a m² in the center · 8,210 people

Why visit Spello
The centro storico climbs the lower southern flank of Monte Subasio, still contained within the circuit of walls raised when the town was renamed Splendidissima Colonia Julia by Augustus. Before that it was Hispellum under the Umbrians.
The Roman gates and stretches of wall from the Augustan period were not rebuilt over, so the line of the ancient town is still readable in the streets that climb from them today. The same streets carry the Infiorata each June and the fresco Pinturicchio completed for the chapel he painted in Santa Maria Maggiore, two things separated by roughly fifteen centuries but occupying the same short stretch of the old town: the chapel's Annunciation, Nativity and Christ Among the Doctors sit near the piazza the petal pictures are laid across.
A Roman villa with ten mosaic floors, found only in 2005 and left in place under cover, adds a third layer beneath the town that is still being uncovered rather than one that was always on view. The town's Roman skeleton, its painted chapel, and a floor uncovered within living memory all sit within the same small radius, which is unusual: most places show one era at a time, Spello keeps three in view at once.
La Cantina di Spello is listed in Slow Food's Osterie d'Italia.
What to see in Spello
- Cappella Baglioni. The Cappella Bella, commissioned by Troilo Baglioni, with four sibyls ranged across the vault above the painted scenes below.
- Santa Maria Maggiore. Twelfth-century church on Piazza Matteotti, its interior built around the fresco cycle and the later panel it houses.
- Porta Venere e Torri di Properzio. First-century BC gate flanked by two dodecagonal towers, still standing at close to full height with the stonework legible course by course.
How to get to Spello
It has its own railway station. Perugia is about 31 min away by road. The full route from Florence.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months for Spello. The slopes of Monte Subasio above town carry wildflowers, Cammino di San Francesco walkers pass through, and the Infiorata weekend on Corpus Domini in late May or June is the most concentrated day on the calendar. July and August touch the mid-thirties on the valley floor; the centro storico at 280 meters stays a few degrees cooler in the upper streets, but most visitors come early or wait until after seven.
3. Città di Castello
Best for truffle season. It belongs to the national association of truffle towns.
46 min from Perugia · homes €840 to €1,050 a m² in the center · 37,871 people

Why visit Città di Castello
Città di Castello sits at the head of the Alta Valtiberina, the upper Tiber valley, where the river that runs through Rome 250 km south is still a narrow, Tuscany-style stream. It is the largest town in Umbria north of Perugia, 56 km from the regional capital and reachable by the historic Trenino Centrale Umbra line.
The town's history sits in three layers. Roman: founded as Tifernum Tiberinum in the 1st c BC, with Pliny the Younger keeping a villa here and describing the upper Tiber landscape in his letters.
Medieval-Renaissance: a walled town run as a signoria by the Vitelli family from the 15th c, whose patronage brought a young painter to the centro to complete his first independent commissions, among them the altarpiece now in the Pinacoteca Comunale, before he left for Rome; the same Pinacoteca, housed in the Vitelli family's own palazzo, also holds works by Signorelli, Ghirlandaio and Della Robbia. Twentieth century: a native-born artist gave his name to a foundation that now runs two sites in the centro, a palazzo holding the earlier period of his work and a former tobacco-drying complex painted black inside and out for the monumental late series, together forming, by the town's own reckoning, the most complete single-artist museum after Picasso's.
Beyond the art, the town carries three Città quality marks: Città del Tartufo for its white truffle zone, which produces some of the best Tuber magnatum in Italy and is marked each year from around 1 November by a market and festival; Città della Ceramica for a maiolica tradition dating to the 16th c and still worked in a dozen workshops across the centro; and a stop on the Cammino di San Francesco, the pilgrim route linking La Verna in Tuscany, where St Francis received the stigmata, to Assisi, his birthplace. There is also a horse fair in early September, the Mostra Nazionale del Cavallo, a Renaissance music festival in July called the Tibernum Festival, and a centro storico whose medieval walls survive in part and can be walked.
The food follows the valley: ciaramicola, the local Easter cake, strangozzi with truffle, the Vitellone Bianco dell'Appennino Centrale IGP beef, pecorino, and the local Sangiovese-based Colli Altotiberini DOC red. What the layers add up to is a river town that kept building on itself rather than being replaced: a Roman villa landscape, a Renaissance signoria that imported a major painter, and a modern art foundation occupying old tobacco warehouses, each still visible in the centro rather than paved over by the one that followed it.
La Miniera di Galparino is listed in Slow Food's Osterie d'Italia.
What to see in Città di Castello
- Fondazione Burri (Palazzo Albizzini + Ex Seccatoi). Two sites: 200+ works in the centro palazzo, and the monumental late series, including the Grande Cretti, in the black-painted ex-tobacco warehouses of the Alta Valtiberina. The Palazzo Albizzini holds the earlier period; the warehouses were painted black inside and out by Burri himself for the later cycle.
- Pinacoteca Comunale (Palazzo Vitelli). Raphael's early processional banner of the Holy Trinity hangs here, alongside Signorelli, Ghirlandaio and Della Robbia.
- Mostra del Tartufo Bianco (early November). A market and festival held from around 1 November in the Alta Valtiberina, drawing producers and restaurants for tastings around some of the best Tuber magnatum in Italy.
How to get to Città di Castello
It has its own railway station. Perugia is about 46 min away by road. The full route from Florence.
Our tip
Città di Castello is best April–June and September–November. The Mostra del Tartufo Bianco every November weekend is the year's culinary headline. The Mostra Nazionale del Cavallo (early September) is the regional horse fair.
4. Trevi
Best for a wine weekend. It belongs to the national association of wine towns.
45 min from Perugia · homes €690 to €960 a m² in the center · 7,927 people
Written about. No. 90. Read the letter →

Why visit Trevi
Trevi sits at 412 meters on a conical hill above the Spoleto valley, the centro storico still inside the Roman walls of the 1st century BC. The town stood on the Via Flaminia, the consular road from Rome to the Adriatic, and grew into a Guelph commune by the 12th century.
Olive oil is what people come for. Over 200,000 trees blanket the slopes below the walls on near-ideal calcareous, well-drained soils, and the Olivo di Sant'Emiliano, at Bovara by the abbey of San Pietro, is about 1,700 years old, identified with the tree the bishop of Trevi was tied to in 304 before his martyrdom.
The Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime, built in 1487 to mark a miracle, holds a fresco by Pietro Perugino. The centro storico runs in concentric rings up the hill, each ring older than the last, with the Palazzo Comunale and the Pinacoteca holding works by Lo Spagna at the top.
La Cucina di San Pietro a Pettine is listed in Gambero Rosso.
What to see in Trevi
- Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime. Built in 1487 after a Marian apparition wept tears of blood in 1485, with a fresco by Perugino in the Cappella dell'Adorazione.
- Chiesa di Sant'Emiliano. Romanesque parish church at the top of the centro storico, dedicated to the bishop martyred in 304, the patron saint of the town.
- Olivo di Sant'Emiliano. About 1,700-year-old olive tree near the eponymous church, nine meters tall, traditionally the tree to which the bishop was tied before martyrdom.
How to get to Trevi
It has its own railway station. Perugia is about 45 min away by road. The full route from Rome.
✷ We have written about Trevi
“Trevi is one of the most famous olive oil towns in the area, so the food in the historic center is amazing. It is one of the stops on our Umbrian Circle road trip.”
Read our piece on Trevi →The Umbrian Circle | Town Tasting in a Day
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months for Trevi. The olive groves are in leaf or in harvest, the hill is green or silver-gold depending on the half, and the valley below holds the morning light. The Festa di Sant'Emiliano runs the last week of January with the Palio dei Terzieri, when the three quarters of the town compete.
5. Assisi
Best for a World Heritage site. UNESCO lists a site in the comune.
33 min from Perugia · homes €1,550 to €2,200 a m² in the center · 27,468 people
Written about. No. 62. Read the letter →

Why visit Assisi
Assisi sits on a terraced spur twenty kilometers east of Perugia, the town built into the western flank of Monte Subasio where it drops toward the plain below. The Umbri settled the site before the Romans came, and the municipium of Asisium grew up around what is now Piazza del Comune, the square that still forms the civic center of the medieval town.
The centro storico runs between two poles: the basilica holding Francis's tomb at one end and the church holding Clare's relics at the other, with the Roman square and its temple facade sitting between them as the oldest layer beneath the medieval one. Below the town, on the plain, stands the basilica built around the chapel where Francis founded his order and died.
Further up the mountain, past the town walls, the hermitage occupies a holm-oak wood where Francis and his companions withdrew from all of it. The layout traces the life it commemorates: birth and burial at the center, founding and death on the plain below, retreat in the wood above.
The town has arranged itself, over centuries, around the geography of one man's biography.
Une (MICHELIN), La Locanda del Cardinale (MICHELIN and Gambero Rosso), Benedikto (MICHELIN) and 1 more place are listed in food guides.
What to see in Assisi
- Basilica di San Francesco. Two superimposed churches over the saint's tomb, frescoed by Cimabue, Giotto, Simone Martini and Pietro Lorenzetti.
- Basilica di Santa Chiara. Church at the eastern end of the centro storico, holding the relics of Saint Clare and the San Damiano Crucifix.
- Tempio di Minerva. Roman temple on Piazza del Comune, six Corinthian columns intact, one of the best-preserved temple façades in the country, converted to a church in 1539.
How to get to Assisi
It has its own railway station. Perugia is about 33 min away by road. The full route from Florence.
✷ We have written about Assisi
“The basilica is grand, and it is grand from a distance, which is the harder trick. You see it from the valley road as a long horizontal weight along the end of the ridge, held up on arches, wider than the town it belongs to. In front of it there is a huge sloping field, stone, which functions as a piazza sort-of.”
Read our piece on Assisi →Assisi | The Church He Would Have Chosen
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months Assisi was built for. The hills around Monte Subasio turn green in spring and gold in autumn, and the pilgrim traffic spreads thinly enough that the centro storico keeps its silence in the early morning. October 3 and 4 are the Festa di San Francesco, when the Italian region chosen for the year brings the oil for the lamp on his tomb.
6. Gubbio
Best for everyday life on foot. Eight of the ten everyday services we look for are mapped within 500 meters of the center.
46 min from Perugia · homes €1,150 to €1,700 a m² in the center · 30,308 people
Written about. No. 91. Read the letter →

Why visit Gubbio
Gubbio sits at 522 meters on the lower slope of the mountain, the old town stacked in four parallel terraces against it. The settlement was Ikuvium, one of the most important towns of the Umbri before Rome arrived.
In 1444 a peasant woman named Presentina found the bronze tablets in the area of the Roman theater and sold them to the commune in 1456 for 40 florins, a transaction that kept them in the town where they were unearthed rather than scattered to a museum elsewhere. The terraces order the town's life by elevation: the Roman theater and lower ground below, the civic square and cathedral stacked on the upper terraces of the centro storico, the patron saint's basilica set apart on the summit above all of it.
The Corsa dei Ceri each 15 May draws that vertical order into motion, three teams carrying wooden statues of Sant'Ubaldo, San Giorgio and Sant'Antonio Abate from the square at the town's center up to the basilica at its height, filling the town from dawn to dusk. The layout is not incidental: a settlement that predates Rome, a civic archive kept where it was found, and a race that each year retraces the climb from town to summit all point to the same fact, that Gubbio's history has stayed stacked on its own mountain rather than dispersed from it.
Ristorante Taverna del Lupo (Locali Storici), Tenuta Borgo Santa Cecilia (Gambero Rosso), La Fornace di Mastro Giorgio (Gambero Rosso) and 1 more place are listed in food guides.
What to see in Gubbio
- Palazzo dei Consoli. Built 1332-1349 by Angelo da Orvieto and Matteo Gattapone, the Gothic civic palace holds the Tavole Iguvine and the civic museum, its vertical pilasters dividing the façade across the square.
- Tavole Iguvine. Displayed on the ground floor of the palazzo, the tablets were recovered near the Roman theater and record the religious rites of the pre-Roman western world in detail.
- Piazza Grande. Suspended civic square between Palazzo dei Consoli and Palazzo Pretorio, hanging on substructures against the slope of the mountain.
How to get to Gubbio
Perugia is about 46 min away by road.
✷ We have written about Gubbio
“And because it is off most maps, it keeps its traditions to itself. It’s not like Siena or other famous towns, where the local festivals are slightly performative for visitors nowadays. Gubbio’s local festival, the most famous one in Umbria, the Festa dei Ceri, is for the locals, no one else.”
Read our piece on Gubbio →Gubbio | The Third Tower
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months for Gubbio. The slopes of Monte Ingino are walkable, the Cammino di San Francesco passes through, and the air at 522 meters holds the Apennine clarity. The Corsa dei Ceri on 15 May is the single most concentrated day in town; book months ahead.
7. Spoleto
Best for a day out from Terni. It is 39 min by car.
39 min from Terni · homes €970 to €1,550 a m² in the center · 35,983 people
Written about. No. 87. Read the letter →

Why visit Spoleto
Spoleto sits at 396 meters at the southern edge of the Valle Umbra, the Apennines rising behind it toward Monteluco. The town was Roman Spoletium from 241 BC, then capital of one of the two great Lombard duchies of Italy from 576, controlling Umbria, Sabina, Picenum and the Pescara valley for more than five centuries.
The Rocca Albornoziana on the Colle Sant'Elia was built between 1363 and 1367 by Matteo Gattapone for Cardinal Albornoz, both a papal fortress and a residence, now the Museo Nazionale del Ducato. From the Rocca the Ponte delle Torri, 230 meters long and 80 meters high, crosses the Tessino gorge to Monteluco, an aqueduct of the 13th century built over Roman foundations.
The Duomo holds a Byzantine mosaic of 1207 across its façade and Filippo Lippi's last fresco cycle in the apse. Gian Carlo Menotti founded the Festival dei Due Mondi in 1958; the Roman theater, the Rocca courtyard and Piazza del Duomo still carry the program each year from late June into mid-July.
Apollinare (MICHELIN), San Lorenzo (MICHELIN) and Il Capanno (Slow Food and L'Espresso) are listed in food guides.
What to see in Spoleto
- Rocca Albornoziana. Papal fortress built 1363-1367 by Matteo Gattapone for Cardinal Albornoz, now the Museo Nazionale del Ducato di Spoleto.
- Ponte delle Torri. Aqueduct bridge 230 meters long and 80 meters high, crossing the Tessino gorge to Monteluco, 13th-14th century on Roman foundations.
- Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta. Twelfth-century Romanesque cathedral with Byzantine mosaic of 1207 on the façade, Renaissance portico, and Filippo Lippi frescoes in the apse.
How to get to Spoleto
It has its own railway station. Terni is about 39 min away by road. The full route from Rome.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months for Spoleto. The town opens its gardens, the Rocca courtyard fills with sun, and the long walks along the Giro dei Condotti above the Ponte delle Torri become bearable again. The Festival dei Due Mondi runs from late June into mid-July, when Spoleto doubles in population and the Roman theater carries opera into the small hours.
8. Foligno
Best for olive oil. It belongs to the national association of olive oil towns.
40 min from Perugia · homes €840 to €1,300 a m² in the center · 55,303 people
Written about. No. 79. Read the letter →

Why visit Foligno
Foligno sits on the left bank of the Topino where the river leaves the Apennines and meets the plain of the Clitunno, the point at which the mountains give way to the Umbrian Valley. The town was called Fulginium in antiquity, and Cicero mentions the prefecture in two surviving fragments.
The Trinci ruled the town from 1305 to 1439, and the palace that carries their name still stands at its center, with the cathedral facing the same square where the town's tournament has run twice a year since its revival. The city's oldest church predates the Trinci period by centuries, its site going back to an 8th-century chapel, while the abbey in the hills above town was founded in 1084, its cloister finished in 1229.
Between the ancient prefecture, the medieval abbey, the Trinci court, and the print workshop that put Dante into type, Foligno reads as a valley crossing point where successive centuries each left a building rather than displacing what came before.
Une (L'Espresso and Gambero Rosso), Osteria Bacerotti (Gambero Rosso), Cucinaa (Gambero Rosso) and 2 more places are listed in food guides.
What to see in Foligno
- Palazzo Trinci. Seat of the Trinci signoria 1305-1439, frescoed by Gentile da Fabriano and Jacopo Bellini, now holding the Pinacoteca and archaeological museum.
- Cattedrale di San Feliciano. Romanesque cathedral on Piazza della Repubblica, built over the tomb of the bishop-martyr buried here in 251 AD.
- Basilica di Santa Maria Infraportas. Oldest church in the city on the site of an 8th-century chapel, frescoes by Nelli, Ugolino di Gisberto, Alunno and Mezzastris.
How to get to Foligno
It has its own railway station. Perugia is about 40 min away by road. The full route from Rome.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months locals prefer. The Quintana runs twice a year, the June and September editions filling the rioni for a week each. April through October is also the season for the Topino river paths and the climb up to Sassovivo.
If you only pick one
Which town is yours
One town for each kind of trip, and the reason in a line.

Without a car
Foligno
The train stops in the commune, so you can arrive and leave without a car.

For everyday life on foot
Città di Castello
Nine of the ten everyday services we look for, from a grocer to a pharmacy, are on the map within 500 meters of the center.

For the food
Norcia
Home of Prosciutto di Norcia IGP. Mountain ham cured at altitude in the Sibillini; Norcia is the namesake town and gave its name to the trade ('norcineria').

For a short trip
Spello
33 min by car from Perugia, the shortest drive from a city on this list.

For a small town
Trevi
7,927 people, the smallest town on this list.
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