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Stemma di Poppi

Tuscany · Arezzo

Poppi

The Casentino borgo above the field where Dante fought at Campaldino in June 1289.

Known for

  • CASTELLO GUIDI

    Late twelfth-century Counts Guidi castle, model for Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, with frescoed chapel and the Rilliana library.

  • CAMPALDINO 1289

    Battle on the plain below the castle where Florence beat Arezzo and Dante fought in the Guelph front rank at twenty-four.

  • FORESTE CASENTINESI

    National park east of Poppi covering the beech and fir forests of the Apennine watershed, one of the oldest managed in Europe.

When to visit

Best · Apr–Oct

  • J
  • F
  • M
  • A
  • M
  • J
  • J
  • A
  • S
  • O
  • N
  • D
  • Best
  • Hot or crowded
  • Quiet
  • Mostly closed

The festa: Torello da Poppi, terza domenica dopo Pasqua

Why come

Poppi rises above the upper Arno in the Casentino, the wooded valley set between Pratovecchio and Bibbiena. The Counts Guidi held this hill from at least 1169, and the castle they raised across the late twelfth and thirteenth centuries is attributed in its older part to Lapo di Cambio and in the later upper section to Arnolfo di Cambio. Dante Alighieri, who fought below the hill as a young man, returned to it later as a guest of the Guidi during his exile, so the borgo held him twice, once as a soldier and once as a household guest.

The town itself sits above the battle plain, the abbey church inside the walls, the castle over both. A further Romanesque pieve stands a short distance off, and the forested ridges of the Apennine watershed rise to the east, the same terrain the Guidi once ruled from their hill. What the place adds up to is a single family's hold on a valley, visible still in the line from castle to plain to church, with the forest marking where their lordship ran out.

The Sunday letter

We haven’t written Poppi’s letter yet.

One town every Sunday, with the photo, the food, the festa. Be there when this one comes up. Free, by Peter & Sophia from Pietrasanta.

Poppi — photo 1
Poppi — photo 2

What to see

  • Castello dei Conti Guidi

    The castle keeps a working library and a fourteenth-century chapel frescoed by the school of Giotto, along with a hand-painted model of the battle below, more than four thousand tin soldiers set out on the table.

  • Piano di Campaldino

    The plain sits directly beneath the castle walls, open ground still readable as a battlefield, with nothing built across it since.

  • Abbazia di San Fedele

    Romanesque abbey church inside the borgo, with single nave and stone façade, dating from the early twelfth century.

  • Pieve di San Pietro a Romena

    Twelfth-century Romanesque pieve a short distance from Poppi, dated 1152, built entirely of stone with three apses.

  • Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi

    National park covering the forested ridges east of Poppi, one of the oldest managed beech and fir forests in Europe.

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We recommend

Where to eat

Not our picks, but places the guides put their name to: a Michelin star, a Gambero Rosso fork, a Slow Food snail, a Michelin Key for the hotels. Worth a table, a counter, or a night when you pass through.

  • MaterRistorante

    Mater carries two Gambero Rosso forks (85/100), a place in L'Espresso's Top 300, plus a spot in the Michelin Guide.

  • Il CedroRistorante

    Il Cedro holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

Through the year

What happens here

Feasts and festivals that come back year after year. We give the month rather than the date, because the date moves and the month rarely does. Check with the source before you plan a journey around one.

Living here

  • Population 5,823
  • In-betweeni
  • Pharmacy in town
  • High school within a 30-minute drive
  • Train station in the comune
  • Nearest airport Bologna, 2 h 11 min drive
  • Regional capital Firenze, 1 h 4 min drive
Tags & datadesignations · numbers · sources

The numbers

  • Elevation: 437 m
  • Population: 5,823
  • Surface area: 97.09 km²

These figures were compiled from public directories — ISTAT, OpenStreetMap, Wikidata — and from the official listings of the guides named on this page. Town details change; verify with official sources before you travel.

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