San Zeno di Montagna

The village sits thirty kilometers northwest of Verona. It took its current name in 1871, after unification, borrowing the name of Verona's patron saint; before that it was called Montagna di Monte Baldo, a plainer name tied directly to the mountain above it.

Pastoralism here goes back to the Copper and Bronze ages, when small communities drove herds up from the plain in summer along routes that still cross the mountain. Sheep and goats gave way to cattle as the dominant economy in the seventeenth century. The frazione of Prada, reached by cable car from the lakeshore, holds the longest of these pasture terraces, its Church of San Bartolomeo built for the shepherds who worked the ground seasonally rather than for a settled parish. Below, the chestnut groves that ring the village are a separate, older layer of the economy, worked at lower altitude while the herds went up.

What emerges is a village organized on a vertical axis: lake view at one elevation, chestnut groves at another, pasture and summer huts higher still, each belonging to a different rhythm of use rather than to a single center.