Anywhere Italy
Stemma di Pennabilli

Emilia-Romagna · Rimini

Pennabilli

A 629-meter Montefeltro borgo between the Roccione and the Rupe, remade as an open-air museum after 1989.

Known for

  • TONINO GUERRA

    The poet and screenwriter behind Amarcord and Nostalghia lived here from 1989 and remade the town as an outdoor museum he called the Landscape of the Soul.

  • FORGOTTEN FRUITS

    The Orto dei Frutti Dimenticati, opened in 1990, holds Apennine fruit varieties saved from extinction inside a walled garden below the Roccione.

  • ANTIQUES FAIR

    The Mostra Mercato Nazionale d'Antiquariato has run every July since 1970, bringing dealers from across Italy to the upper Marecchia.

When to visit

Best · May–Oct

  • J
  • F
  • M
  • A
  • M
  • J
  • J
  • A
  • S
  • O
  • N
  • D
  • Best
  • Hot or crowded
  • Quiet
  • Mostly closed

The festa: papa Pio V, 5 May

Why come

Pennabilli sits at 629 meters on the western slope of Monte Carpegna, at the head of the upper Marecchia valley, forty-five kilometers south of Rimini, inside the historic Montefeltro region. The town grew from the union of two hilltop castles, Penna on the Roccione and Billi on the Rupe, formally joined in 1350 by a stone of peace placed in the marketplace between them. It has been the episcopal seat of the Diocese of Montefeltro since 1572, a status transferred from the older seat of San Leo.

Tonino Guerra, long-time collaborator of Fellini, Antonioni and Tarkovsky, settled here in 1989 and spread his outdoor museum, I Luoghi dell'Anima, across both the town and the valley below it, linking the two former castles and their surroundings into a single walked route. The garden of forgotten fruits opened the following year, and the antiques fair has continued each July since 1970, older than either. What the place adds up to is a town built twice: once by the stone that joined two castles into one commune, and once by the poet who joined the whole valley into a single museum without walls.

The Sunday letter

We haven’t written Pennabilli’s letter yet.

One town every Sunday, with the photo, the food, the festa. Be there when this one comes up. Free, by Peter & Sophia from Pietrasanta.

Pennabilli — photo 1
Pennabilli — photo 2

What to see

  • Orto dei Frutti Dimenticati

    Walled garden below the Roccione, its paths lined with sculptures and installations set among the rescued fruit varieties.

  • I Luoghi dell'Anima

    Network of seven outdoor installations across Pennabilli and the Marecchia valley, conceived by Tonino Guerra between 1989 and 2012.

  • Roccione and Rupe

    Two rocky outcrops that carried the medieval castles of Penna and Billi, joined into a single commune in 1350.

  • Cattedrale di San Leone

    Cathedral of the Diocese of Montefeltro, whose seat was transferred to Pennabilli in 1572 from the older episcopal town of San Leo.

  • Mostra Mercato Nazionale d'Antiquariato

    Held in the centro storico, drawing dealers who set up stalls through the old streets for the duration of the fair.

The slow-trip planner

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We recommend

Where to eat

Not our picks, but places the guides put their name to: a Michelin star, a Gambero Rosso fork, a Slow Food snail, a Michelin Key for the hotels. Worth a table, a counter, or a night when you pass through.

  • Il PiastrinoRistorante

    One Michelin star for Il Piastrino, and two Gambero Rosso forks (86/100).

Through the year

What happens here

Feasts and festivals that come back year after year. We give the month rather than the date, because the date moves and the month rarely does. Check with the source before you plan a journey around one.

Living here

  • Population 2,623
  • Off the beaten pathi
  • Pharmacy: none mapped
  • High school within a 30-minute drive
  • Nearest airport Rimini, 1 h 17 min drive
  • Regional capital Bologna, 2 h 2 min drive
Tags & datadesignations · numbers · sources

The numbers

  • Elevation: 629 m
  • Population: 2,623
  • Surface area: 69.8 km²

These figures were compiled from public directories — ISTAT, OpenStreetMap, Wikidata — and from the official listings of the guides named on this page. Town details change; verify with official sources before you travel.

Close by

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