Buccheri

Buccheri sits on the northern slopes above 820 meters, one of the highest villages in the Iblei. Sicels, Greeks, Romans and Byzantines all left traces on the ridge above the village, a long sequence of settlement on ground that offered height and a view over the watershed below. The 1693 Val di Noto earthquake leveled most of what stood. The rebuild produced the upper village's high baroque staircase church and, separately, the parish church housing a Gagini marble that survived the quake itself, an object older than the building now around it.

The neviere in the surrounding hills supplied granita ice to Syracuse and Catania into the early twentieth century, a trade that tied this upland village to the coastal cities below it long before the road did. The olive groves on the slopes around the peak now carry the same name into a different economy: the Olio e non solo festival each October fills the village with producers and tastings. What the ridge, the ice caves and the groves add up to is a village whose whole history has run on its altitude, first as vantage and refuge, then as a source of cold, now as a source of oil.