Fenestrelle

Fenestrelle sits in the middle of Val Chisone, fifty kilometers west of Torino on the road toward Sestriere. The Romans called this point Finis Terrae Cotii, the border of Cottius's land, and from the twelfth century onward the valley held a strong Waldensian community, long before any fortress stood here.

Construction on the ridge began in 1728, commissioned to secure the border against France after the Treaty of Utrecht handed Val Chisone to Piedmont, and work continued for around 120 years. What resulted sits apart from the village in every sense: the settlement stays put at the valley floor while the fortifications climb the slope above it, three separate forts staged up the ridge and joined by a single stair. The village is the base point of a line that keeps rising until it reaches the crest, so that the same walk that starts among houses ends at open rock looking down over the whole valley. Fenestrelle today is best understood as the foot of that climb, a border town that turned into the ground floor of its own fortress.