Anywhere Italy

Slow trip

14 slow days: Chioggia, Trento, Brugnato, and Orta San Giulio

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October light turns the Venetian plain amber as you leave Chioggia's fishing boats and walk inland toward the cypress-studded hills around Asolo and Montagnana. From there, the itinerary spirals northwest through Lake Garda's quieter eastern shore, then deep into Liguria's vertical villages where stone staircases descend toward the sea, before ending in the Alps' foothills near Orta San Giulio where mist settles on water at dawn. Four bases, fourteen days, and the kind of walking that leaves mud on your boots and the taste of chestnuts in your mouth.

14 days · October · nature & walking-first · moderate walking

Chioggia

Chioggia, 2 days

Base yourself in Chioggia and make these your day trips.

4 towns · qualifying pool of 5 from 53 candidates

Plain towns in the provinces of Padova, Treviso, and Venezia. Borghi Più Belli d'Italia, TCI Bandiera Arancione, and wine territory.

Getting around

Chioggia, your base, is on the rail network. 3 of the 4 towns in this corner have a railway station, so a car-free version of this corner is realistic. Check Trenitalia timetables before you commit a day: rural frequencies run thin, especially on Sundays.

Your timing

October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

While you're there

  • Arquà PetrarcaFesta delle Giuggiole, OctoberOctober jujube festival in Petrarch's medieval village with tastings of brodo di giuggiole liqueur.

Day 1 · Arrive in Chioggia

Settle in. Chioggia is your base for the next 2 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Chioggia

Province: Venezia

Chioggia

Italy's second fishing port, on an island at the south end of the Venetian Lagoon, called Little Venice for its canal.

Picked for:nature and walking · coastal

Day 2 · Day trip to Arquà Petrarca

First outing. Head to Arquà Petrarca for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Chioggia for dinner.

Arquà Petrarca

Province: Padova

Arquà Petrarca

The Euganean Hills village where Francesco Petrarca spent his last four years and died in 1374, renamed in his honor in 1868.

Picked for:nature and walking · plain · Festa delle Giuggiole, October

Trento

Trento, 2 days

Base yourself in Trento and make these your day trips.

4 towns · qualifying pool of 4 from 24 candidates

Plain towns in the provinces of Verona and Trento. Borghi Più Belli d'Italia, TCI Bandiera Arancione, and olive oil country.

Getting around

Rent a car for this corner. Trento, your base, is on the rail network. Only 1 of the 4 towns have a railway station; the day trips assume driving.

Your timing

October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

Day 1 · Arrive in Trento

Settle in. Trento is your base for the next 2 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Trento

Province: Trento

Trento

The Alpine capital on the Adige at 194 metres, where the Council that reshaped the Catholic Church met in a castle still standing above the city.

Picked for:nature and walking · plain

Day 2 · Day trip to Tenno

First outing. Head to Tenno for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Trento for dinner.

Tenno

Province: Trento

Tenno

A hillside commune above Lake Garda where a medieval stone hamlet, a turquoise lake and the northernmost olive groves in Europe sit within reach of each other.

Picked for:nature and walking · hill town

Brugnato

Brugnato, 7 days

Base yourself in Brugnato and make these your day trips.

7 towns · qualifying pool of 16 from 53 candidates

Coastal towns in the provinces of La Spezia and Genova. Bandiera Blu coast and Borghi Più Belli d'Italia.

Getting around

Brugnato, your base, has no station, so plan to arrive by car. 4 of the 7 towns here have a station; the rest need wheels. A rental car makes this corner simple, a rail-plus-taxi version takes patience.

Your timing

October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

Day 1 · Arrive in Brugnato

Settle in. Brugnato is your base for the next 7 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Brugnato

Province: La Spezia

Brugnato

The medieval ecclesiastical capital of an inland Ligurian valley, seat of a diocese from 1133 to 1820, with a co-cathedral built over a Columban monastery.

Picked for:nature and walking · plain

Day 2 · Day trip to Levanto

First outing. Head to Levanto for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Brugnato for dinner.

Levanto

Province: La Spezia

Levanto

The sixth Cinque Terre, a beach town and Cittaslow at the gateway of the national park, with a surf break and a striped Gothic church.

Picked for:nature and walking · coastal

Day 3 · Day trip to Sarzana

Out again, this time to Sarzana. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Brugnato.

Sarzana

Province: La Spezia

Sarzana

The unofficial capital of the Lunigiana on the Magra plain, birthplace of Pope Niccolò V.

Picked for:nature and walking · coastal

Day 4 · Day trip to Ameglia

Out again, this time to Ameglia. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Brugnato.

Ameglia

Province: La Spezia

Ameglia

A hilltop borgo at 89 meters above the mouth of the Magra, the Lunigiana edge of Liguria where the river meets the Gulf of Poets.

Picked for:nature and walking · coastal

Day 5 · Day trip to Lerici

Out again, this time to Lerici. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Brugnato.

Lerici

Province: La Spezia

Lerici

A fishing harbour under a Pisan-Genoese castle, with the frazione of Tellaro hanging over the rocks at the commune's southern edge.

Picked for:nature and walking · coastal

Day 6 · Day trip to Lavagna

Out again, this time to Lavagna. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Brugnato.

Lavagna

Province: Genova

Lavagna

The Tigullio town that gave its name to slate, and its counts to a line of popes.

Picked for:nature and walking · coastal

Day 7 · Day trip to Vernazza

Last day trip in this corner, to Vernazza. Make a day of it, then back to Brugnato.

Vernazza

Province: La Spezia

Vernazza

The middle village of the coast, the only one with a natural harbor, buried under four meters of mud in October 2011.

Picked for:nature and walking · coastal

Orta San Giulio

Orta San Giulio, 3 days

Base yourself in Orta San Giulio and make these your day trips.

5 towns · qualifying pool of 8 from 65 candidates

Hill towns in the provinces of Novara, Biella, and Verbano-Cusio-Ossola. Borghi Più Belli d'Italia and TCI Bandiera Arancione.

Getting around

Orta San Giulio, your base, is on the rail network. 4 of the 5 towns in this corner have a railway station, so a car-free version of this corner is realistic. Check Trenitalia timetables before you commit a day: rural frequencies run thin, especially on Sundays.

Your timing

October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

Day 1 · Arrive in Orta San Giulio

Settle in. Orta San Giulio is your base for the next 3 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Orta San Giulio

Province: Novara

Orta San Giulio

A promontory facing an islet basilica, with a UNESCO complex of Francis-of-Assisi chapels on the hill above.

Picked for:nature and walking · lakeside

Day 2 · Day trip to Arona

First outing. Head to Arona for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Orta San Giulio for dinner.

Arona

Province: Novara

Arona

A town at the southern tip of a lake, watched over by a colossus finished in 1698.

Picked for:nature and walking · lakeside

Day 3 · Day trip to Vogogna

Last day trip in this corner, to Vogogna. Make a day of it, then back to Orta San Giulio.

Vogogna

Province: Verbano-Cusio-Ossola

Vogogna

An Ossola medieval capital at 226 meters on the Toce, with a castle of 1348 and five centuries as seat of the lower valley's jurisdiction.

Picked for:nature and walking · hill town

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