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Stemma di San Felice Circeo

Lazio · Latina

San Felice Circeo

A medieval borgo on the flank of a promontory that Homer made the home of Circe in the Odyssey.

Known for

  • MONTE CIRCEO

    The 541-meter promontory Homer made the home of Circe in the Odyssey, a landmark visible from the entire Pontine coast.

  • TORRE DEI TEMPLARI

    Knights Templar tower of the 1240s on Piazza Lanzuisi, the surviving anchor of the medieval fortified borgo.

  • GROTTA GUATTARI

    Neanderthal cave on the south face of the promontory, with one of the oldest hominid finds in Italy, excavated from 1939.

When to visit

Best · May–Sep

  • J13°
  • F14°
  • M14°
  • A17°
  • M21°
  • J26°
  • J29°
  • A29°
  • S26°
  • O22°
  • N18°
  • D14°
  • Best
  • Hot or crowded
  • Quiet
  • Mostly closed

Daytime averages, 2020–2024. The sea is warmest in August at 27° and coldest in February at 15°. Weather data by Open-Meteo.com.

The festa: Felice, 29 July

Why come

San Felice Circeo sits at about 100 meters on the inland flank of the promontory, the limestone mass that closes the south end of the old Pontine Marshes. The Romans called the ancient city here Circeii; the treaty between Carthage and Rome in 509 BC mentions it by name. The cape is still called Promontorio del Circeo, after the sorceress who turned Odysseus's men into pigs.

The centro storico is small, built inland and above the water rather than on it, with the coast reached by a road that drops from the borgo to the beaches below. The baronial palace adjoins the tower on the town's small piazza, the medieval heart of the fortified center, while the cave on the promontory's south face sits apart from both, closer to the sea than to the old town. Below the borgo, the coast runs into the beaches of the Parco Nazionale del Circeo, with views across the Gulf of Gaeta to the Pontine Islands. What holds the town together is the promontory itself: a single limestone landmark that has given the place its name, its ancient treaty mention, its myth, and its oldest human trace, while the borgo that grew on its flank stayed small enough to be walked in an afternoon.

The Sunday letter

We haven’t written San Felice Circeo’s letter yet.

One town every Sunday, with the photo, the food, the festa. Be there when this one comes up. Free, by Peter & Sophia from Pietrasanta.

How to get there

From Rome (FCO), about 2h 11m by car.

Naples / Salerno (NAP) is about 2h 27m away.

By car from the centre of Naples 2h 32m or Salerno 3 hours.

Coming by train into Latina? San Felice Circeo is about 50 minutes away by road.

San Felice Circeo — photo 1
San Felice Circeo — photo 2

What to see

  • Torre dei Templari

    Thirteenth-century tower with Guelph crenellations on Piazza Lanzuisi, built between 1239 and 1259 on a Roman-era foundation.

  • Palazzo Baronale

    Baronial palace adjoining the Templar tower, the medieval heart of the small fortified centro storico.

  • Monte Circeo

    Limestone promontory rising to 541 meters, with Path 750 to the summit and views across the Pontine Islands and the Gulf of Gaeta.

  • Grotta Guattari

    Cave on the south face of the promontory, where remains of nine individuals were excavated from 1939 onward.

  • Quarto Caldo beaches

    Bandiera Blu coastline on the southern side of the promontory, accessible by a coastal road from the centro storico.

The slow-trip planner

Building a trip? Find where San Felice Circeo fits in a slow Italy circuit.

Answer five questions. We will shape a geographically coherent slow trip from the 1,000 Italian towns most travelers skip. Yours to save and share.

We recommend

Where to eat

Not our picks, but places the guides put their name to: a Michelin star, a Gambero Rosso fork, a Slow Food snail, a Michelin Key for the hotels. Worth a table, a counter, or a night when you pass through.

  • MadreTerraTrattoria

    MadreTerra has one Gambero Rosso prawn to its name.

Through the year

What happens here

Feasts and festivals that come back year after year. We give the month rather than the date, because the date moves and the month rarely does. Check with the source before you plan a journey around one.

Living here

  • Population 10,137
  • In-betweeni
  • Pharmacy in town
  • High school within a 30-minute drive
  • Nearest airport Rome, 2 h 11 min drive
  • Regional capital Roma, 1 h 53 min drive

Common questions

What is San Felice Circeo known for?
San Felice Circeo is a medieval borgo on the flank of a promontory that Homer made the home of Circe in the Odyssey.
Where is San Felice Circeo?
San Felice Circeo is a comune in the province of Latina, in Lazio, at 100 meters above sea level.
What is the nearest airport to San Felice Circeo?
Rome (FCO), about 2h 11m by car.
How long is the drive from Naples to San Felice Circeo?
About 2h 32m by car.
When is the best time to visit San Felice Circeo?
Best in May–Sep. July is the warmest month, averaging 29 degrees, and November the wettest, with about 14 rain days.
Is there a sagra or a festival in San Felice Circeo?
Yes. Circeo di Gusto - San Felice Circeo and San Felice Circeo. July is when the first of them falls.
Which other towns are like San Felice Circeo?
Sabaudia, Cerveteri and Orbetello.
How many people live in San Felice Circeo?
10,137 at the 2023 count.
Tags & datadesignations · numbers · sources

The numbers

  • Elevation: 100 m
  • Population: 10,137
  • Surface area: 32.63 km²

These figures were compiled from public directories: ISTAT, OpenStreetMap and Wikidata, and from the official listings of the guides named on this page. Town details change; verify with official sources before you travel.

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