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00   Aliano
Stemma di Aliano

Basilicata · Matera

Aliano

The clay-hill village at 555 meters above the Agri valley where Carlo Levi served his 1935 exile and is buried in the cemetery.

Best time
Apr–Oct
Population
880

Known for

  • CARLO LEVI

    Confined here 1935-36, wrote Cristo si è fermato a Eboli in 1945, buried in the village cemetery in 1975 at his own request.

  • CALANCHI

    Eroded clay badlands surrounding the town, the bare grey ridges and pinnacles that became the visual signature of Levi's exile narrative.

  • LUNA E CALANCHI

    Franco Arminio's August festival of poetry, music and walking through the badlands, anchor of the new Lucanian cultural calendar.

  • CANESTRATO DI MOLITERNO

    The commune lies inside the Canestrato di Moliterno IGP production zone.

When to visit

Best · Apr–Oct

  • J11°
  • F13°
  • M14°
  • A17°
  • M23°
  • J29°
  • J33°
  • A32°
  • S27°
  • O22°
  • N16°
  • D13°
  • Best
  • Hot or crowded
  • Quiet
  • Mostly closed

Daytime averages, 2020–2024. Weather data by Open-Meteo.com.

The festa: Luigi Gonzaga, 19 June

Why come

Aliano sits on a clay hill at 555 meters in the southern Matera province, above the Agri river valley and the Sauro stream. The town is surrounded by calanchi, the eroded badlands of bare clay carved by rainwater into ridges and pinnacles, the landscape that became the visual signature of Carlo Levi's exile. Levi, a Turin doctor, painter and anti-fascist, was confined here from 1935 to 1936 under Mussolini's regime.

The book he wrote afterward, Cristo si è fermato a Eboli, published in 1945, gave the village the invented name Gagliano and turned the south's poverty into national literature. The title comes from a local saying: that Christ stopped short at Eboli, in Campania, and never reached this far. Levi was buried in the village cemetery at his request in 1975.

The house where he was held is now a museum, and the surrounding territory is run as a Parco Letterario. The annual Festival La Luna e i Calanchi, founded by poet Franco Arminio, fills the village every August with readings and music on the bare clay ridges.

The Sunday letter

Aliano is on our list. Its letter is still to come.

We are writing about all 1,000 of these towns, one at a time, in a free letter every Sunday: the photo, the food, the festa. That is our mission. Sign up and you will be there when Aliano comes up. By Peter & Sophia, from Pietrasanta.

How to get there

From Bari / Brindisi (BRI), about 2h 32m by car.

Naples / Salerno (NAP) is about 3 hours away.

By car from the centre of Salerno 2h 17m, Bari 2h 33m or Naples 3 hours.

Aliano, photo 1
Aliano, photo 2

What to see

  • Casa di Carlo Levi

    The house where Levi was held in confino from 1935 to 1936, preserved with his paintings, books and personal effects, now the heart of the Parco Letterario.

  • Tomba di Carlo Levi

    Levi's grave in the village cemetery, where he asked to be buried in 1975 alongside the contadini he wrote about.

  • Calanchi di Aliano

    Eroded clay badlands surrounding the village, carved by rainwater into bare ridges and pinnacles, a protected geomorphological landscape.

  • Centro storico

    Hilltop borgo of stone houses with the typical aerial doors, second-floor entrances reached by external stairs, described by Levi in his memoir.

  • Festival La Luna e i Calanchi

    Annual August poetry and music festival founded by Franco Arminio, held in the streets of the village and on the calanchi ridges.

The slow-trip planner

Building a trip? Find where Aliano fits in a slow Italy circuit.

Answer five questions. We will shape a geographically coherent slow trip from the 1,000 Italian towns most travelers skip. Yours to save and share.

Living here

  • Population 880
  • Very remotei
  • Pharmacy in town
  • High school within a 30-minute drive
  • Nearest airport Bari / Brindisi, 2 h 32 min drive
  • Regional capital Potenza, 1 h 31 min drive

Common questions

What is Aliano known for?
Aliano is the clay-hill village at 555 meters above the Agri valley where Carlo Levi served his 1935 exile and is buried in the cemetery.
Where is Aliano?
Aliano is a comune in the province of Matera, in Basilicata.
What is the nearest airport to Aliano?
Bari / Brindisi (BRI), about 2h 32m by car.
How long is the drive from Salerno to Aliano?
About 2h 17m by car.
When is the best time to visit Aliano?
Best in Apr–Oct. July is the warmest month, averaging 33 degrees, and May the wettest, with about 12 rain days.
Is there a sagra or a festival in Aliano?
The town keeps its patron saint's day: Luigi Gonzaga, 19 June.
Which other towns are like Aliano?
Aieta, Roscigno and Morigerati.
How many people live in Aliano?
880 at the 2023 count.
Tags & datadesignations · numbers · sources

The numbers

  • Elevation: 555 m
  • Population: 880
  • Surface area: 98.41 km²

These figures were compiled from public directories: ISTAT, OpenStreetMap and Wikidata, and from the official listings of the guides named on this page. Town details change; verify with official sources before you travel.

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