The 9 best hidden hill towns within 90 minutes of Rome

Nine towns: what each is best for, what a home costs, and the catch. A square meter runs from €400 in Morino to €1,350 in Oriolo Romano.

We've written about 2 of these 9. From the 1,000 towns picked by Peter Benei.

92 towns written about, 908 to go. Follow along, free: Subscribe on Substack

Capranica, Lazio

The country around Rome rises quickly once the ring road is behind you. Volcanic rock, soft and grey-gold, gives the older quarters their walls, their cut stairways and the tombs hollowed into the roadside banks. Spring brings wild asparagus and artichokes to the market stalls, autumn brings chestnuts, porcini and the hazelnuts of the Cimini hills, and the trattorie work through the year with pecorino romano, coratella and bowls of fettuccine cut by hand. On a clear winter morning the Apennines show white behind the nearer ridges, and the air on a hill town belvedere is several degrees colder than the city.

But the standard day out of Rome is Tivoli, and everyone knows it. Villa d'Este and Villa Adriana take the coaches from mid-morning, the ticket queues bunch under the trees, and the terraces of the town fill with people eating on a timetable set by a return coach. The gardens deserve their reputation. They are simply not a quiet day, and they are not the only hill town within reach of a train from Rome Termini.

The same ridges run on north into the Tuscia and east into the Monti Lucretili and the Aniene valley, past the coach parks and the signposted villas. Fewer people go to the towns on them, though the geology, the woods and the cooking are the same. This list stays with the inland hill settlements: tufa quarters, small piazzas, and roads that keep climbing.

Of the 33 communes we have mapped within 90 minutes of Rome, 13 qualify as hill towns: each is an inland hill settlement. This list is the hidden ones, 9 in all. The smallest, Percile, has 217 residents.

1. Percile

Best for a walk through the old town. It is on the list of Italy's most beautiful villages.

54 min from Rome · homes €550 to €800 a m² in the center · 217 people

Percile, Lazio

Why visit Percile

Percile sits sixty kilometers from Rome, on the border between the Roma and Rieti provinces. The name derives from gens Porcia, a Roman family of the area, and the earliest documented evidence of habitation dates between 314 and 335, in the biography of Pope Sylvester I.

The village occupies the rocky spur itself, walled stone houses and vaulted passages built to the shape of the ground; above it the slopes rise into oak and beech woods that belong to the wider park, climbing toward Monte Pellecchia. The relation between the two levels is the whole of the place: the settlement below, compact and defensible on its spur, and the water held above it in limestone basins fed by underground springs.

What the borgo protected on the ground, the park has protected in the hills. The population today is 217, spread across a comune territory of 24 square kilometers, which makes Percile a small fixed point inside a much larger stretch of protected woodland.

The catch: It has lost 23% of its people since 2015.

What to see in Percile

  • Lagustelli di Percile. The walk up from the village runs through oak forest and ends at clear water held in two limestone basins between 674 and 704 meters, filled by underground springs.
  • Centro storico. Medieval stone village on a rocky spur, with vaulted passages, surviving gates and the panorama from the upper terrace.
  • Parco Naturale dei Monti Lucretili. Regional park covering oak and beech woods on the karst slopes around the village, with marked trails to the lakes and toward Monte Pellecchia.

How to get to Percile

Rome is about 54 min away by road.

Our tip

April through June and September through October are the best months at 575 meters. The Lucretili woods are green into June and the walks up to the Lagustelli are at their best when the karst basins are full from spring rain. July and August are workable; the village stays cooler than Rome forty kilometers downhill, but the open trails go silent in midday heat.

Everything we know about Percile

2. Morino

Best for a small town. 1,278 people live here.

1 h 28 min from Rome · homes €400 to €590 a m² in the center · 1,278 people

Morino, Abruzzo

Why visit Morino

The Liri river cuts a long corridor south from Avezzano along the Lazio border, and Morino sits partway down it, the main village at 440 meters with its hamlets strung along the slopes above. Rendinara, the highest of these, sits at 914 meters on the flank of Monte Pizzo Deta, closer to the mountain pastures than to the valley floor where the parish church and the rest of the settlement lie.

The commune is a member of the Città del Castagno network, and the roscette chestnuts, peeled and boiled with wild fennel, come from the same slopes that carry the reserve's beech and chestnut cover upward toward the peak. The valley's low villages, its high hamlet, and its chestnut woods all answer to the same terrain: a river corridor walled in by mountains that push settlement upward in places and leave the water, higher still, to do the rest.

What to see in Morino

  • Riserva Naturale Zompo lo Schioppo. Protected reserve established 1987 around the waterfall, with beech forests, chestnut groves, and trails climbing toward Monte Pizzo Deta.
  • Cascata di Zompo lo Schioppo. The Romito stream drops off a limestone cliff above the village. The name is dialect: zompo means leap, schioppo the gunshot crack of the water striking rock below.
  • Rendinara. Mountain hamlet on the slopes of Monte Pizzo Deta, the highest inhabited frazione of the commune, reached by the Val Roveto road above the main village.

How to get to Morino

Rome is about 1 h 28 min away by road.

Our tip

April through October works for Morino. The waterfall runs strongest in spring meltwater months, May and June, and the chestnut woods turn in October. July and August can be warm in the valley but the reserve stays shaded under beech canopy and stream temperatures hold.

Everything we know about Morino

3. Oriolo Romano

Best for everyday life on foot. Eight of the ten everyday services we look for are mapped within 500 meters of the center.

1 h 15 min from Rome · homes €900 to €1,350 a m² in the center · 3,696 people

Oriolo Romano, Lazio

Why visit Oriolo Romano

Oriolo Romano sits at 420 meters in the Sabatini hills, between Lake Bracciano and the volcanic Cimini, not far from the old Via Clodia. The village is unusually new for the Tuscia: in 1560 the Orsini family ceded a wooded fief to the nobleman Giorgio Santacroce, who began clearing the forest and founded a planned agricultural settlement.

The first inhabitants were farmers, shepherds and woodcutters drawn from Tuscany and Umbria, so the local accent kept Umbrian inflections for generations. The palace at the center of the village gave the settlement its shape, with the parish church and the main square arranged around it as the plan intended.

The forest that once covered the whole fief survives now at the margins, an exceptionally low-altitude stand for an Apennine beech wood, while hazelnut groves have taken over the lower slopes that were cleared for farming. The village, in effect, is the cleared half of a wooded fief, its cultivated ring still framed by the wood the Santacroce family left standing.

What to see in Oriolo Romano

  • Palazzo Altieri. Sixteenth-century palace enlarged in 1674 under Pope Clement X, with Old Testament frescoes and painted views of the Altieri fiefs.
  • Faggeta di Monte Raschio. Primeval beech forest of about eighty hectares between 400 and 550 meters, UNESCO World Heritage since 2017.
  • Piazza Umberto I. Central square of the 1560 plan, anchored by the palace and the parish Chiesa di Sant'Anna at the head of the village.

How to get to Oriolo Romano

It has its own railway station. Rome is about 1 h 15 min away by road. The full route from Rome.

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the months for the beech forest, when the canopy is full and the trails on Monte Raschio are at their cleanest. The exceptionally low altitude of the faggeta means autumn color arrives earlier and lasts longer than in higher Apennine beech woods. July and August push the lower hills into the low thirties; the forest holds shade and stays five or six degrees cooler than the surrounding farmland.

Everything we know about Oriolo Romano

4. Capranica

Best for a trip without a car. The train stops in the commune.

1 h 12 min from Rome · homes €650 to €950 a m² in the center · 6,341 people

Written about. No. 64. Read the letter →

Capranica, Lazio

Why visit Capranica

Capranica sits in the Tuscia at the fifty-fifth kilometer of the Via Cassia, on a hill overlooking the Sutri valley between Lake Bracciano and Lake Vico. The Etruscans worked this ground; the medieval borgo grew along the Cassia after the road was rebuilt in the second century BC.

The Anguillara family appeared in 1305 and held the town through most of the fourteenth century. In 1337, under Orso degli Anguillara, Francesco Petrarca stayed here on his way south, the moment local memory still attaches to the place.

Castrovecchio is the oldest quarter, a wedge of stone houses and stepped streets above the Castello degli Anguillara. The town is one of the Italian comuni crossed by the Via Francigena, with a marked stage running north toward Sutri and Vetralla.

Hazelnut groves cover the surrounding slopes; Capranica is a member of the Città della Nocciola network and supplies the Tonda Gentile Romana, the local DOP variety.

What to see in Capranica

  • Castello degli Anguillara. Medieval fortress at the head of Castrovecchio, seat of the Anguillara family from 1305 and the place Petrarch stayed in 1337.
  • Castrovecchio. Oldest quarter of the town, a wedge of stone houses and stepped streets rising above the Cassia toward the castle.
  • Chiesa di San Francesco. Fourteenth-century Franciscan church on the edge of Castrovecchio, with fresco fragments and Anguillara family tombs.

How to get to Capranica

It has its own railway station. Rome is about 1 h 12 min away by road. The full route from Rome.

✷ We have written about Capranica

“So a borgo like Capranica, and especially Capranica, has nothing to offer except this vibe. After darkness sets, the town becomes the same medieval village that it was 500 years ago. The only difference is the electric lighting and some satellite dishes on some roofs.”

Read our piece on Capranica →

Capranica | The stop on the journey

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the walking months in the Tuscia, when the hazelnut groves are green and the Cassia is light. July and August push the slopes into the low thirties; the medieval centro storico holds shade well enough, but afternoons stay quiet. The hazelnut harvest runs through late August and September and the air around the town smells of toasted nuts for weeks.

Everything we know about Capranica

5. Ronciglione

Best for a long lunch. A food guide lists Riva Felice here.

1 h 4 min from Rome · homes €600 to €850 a m² in the center · 8,390 people

Written about. No. 58. Read the letter →

Ronciglione, Lazio

Why visit Ronciglione

The town stands on a tufa spur at 441 meters, five kilometers from the lake, with the Cimini hills and their hazelnut groves closing in around it on every side. The first record of it dates to 1103.

The Prefetti di Vico held it before the Farnese took it as a Duchy, and the sixteenth-century pontiff who granted the town its Carnival did so during that same passage of rule from prefects to dukes. The fortress's towers control the single natural approach to the historic center, so the medieval town and its defenses are really one structure: whoever held the towers held the road in.

Everything built afterward, the cathedral, the contrade, the Carnival itself, sits inside that same defended perimeter. What the RAI title recognized in 2023 was less a single monument than that whole arrangement still intact: a fortified approach, a walled center, and a lake and hills that have not changed shape around it.

What to see in Ronciglione

  • Rocca dei Borgia (I Torrioni). Medieval fortress of the Prefects of Vico, twin round towers guarding the only natural approach to the centro storico.
  • Duomo dei Santi Pietro e Caterina. Baroque cathedral of 1671, polychrome marble altar, fifteenth-century triptych by a Viterbo painter, wooden statue of San Bartolomeo.
  • Lago di Vico. Volcanic lake ringed by the Cimini hills, its waters filling the crater below the level of the town on its spur.

How to get to Ronciglione

Rome is about 1 h 4 min away by road. The full route from Rome.

✷ We have written about Ronciglione

“Suddenly, we weren't running around. Ronciglione has nothing, and I mean zero things to show you. It's a pretty generic medieval town near Rome. It doesn't have a big piazza. There is a gate, a duomo, 2-3 main streets, and pretty much that's it. Yet, it was the center of our attention at that time. After spending just a few days there, we went back to Rome without wrinkles, with an oddly weird smile on our faces.”

Read our piece on Ronciglione →

Ronciglione | Baptism into the Other Italy

Our tip

April through June brings the Cimini hills into green, hazelnut groves in flower and Lake Vico cool enough for the morning. September and October are the harvest months, dry, mild, with the air clear enough to see Monte Cimino from the Rocca. July and August touch the upper thirties and fill the lake with Romans on weekends.

Everything we know about Ronciglione

6. Canale Monterano

Best for a soak. The comune has thermal baths.

1 h 10 min from Rome · homes €900 to €1,300 a m² in the center · 4,154 people

Canale Monterano, Lazio

Why visit Canale Monterano

Canale Monterano sits at 376 meters on a tuff hill forty-five kilometers northwest of Rome, between the Bracciano basin and the Tolfa hills. The inhabited town is small, four thousand residents, built around a working bakery tradition.

Two kilometers away, on a separate tuff bluff above the confluence of the Mignone and Bicione rivers, is the reason most people make the trip: the ghost town, set on the far side of a valley the living town does not touch. The relationship between the two places is one of distance and separation rather than continuity.

Canale Monterano went on being a town; the settlement on the bluff did not, and the two kilometers between them mark the difference between a place that was rebuilt after the fire and one that never was. What is left on the bluff is masonry with the roofs and interiors gone, watched over from its highest point by the palace facade, with the fountain still running below in an otherwise empty piazza.

The regional reserve now holds the whole valley, ruin and river system together, so that the abandoned village survives inside protected land rather than beside a working one.

What to see in Canale Monterano

  • Ruderi di Monterano. Ghost town two kilometers from Canale, burned by French Republican troops in 1799, never rebuilt; now the centerpiece of the regional reserve.
  • Chiesa e Convento di San Bonaventura. Roofless, facing an open sky where the roof beams once sat. The façade and convent block still stand at the edge of the ruined village, built for the Altieri family by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
  • Fontana Ottagonale del Leone. Still flowing through the stone lion's mouth in the middle of an otherwise empty piazza, the only thing in the ghost town that still functions as built.

How to get to Canale Monterano

Rome is about 1 h 10 min away by road.

Our tip

April through June and September through October are the best months for the reserve. The trail from the parking lot to the ruins is exposed, and spring and autumn keep the temperatures comfortable. July and August push past thirty degrees on the tuff plateau, and the open ruins offer no shade after eleven in the morning; early-morning visits are the workaround.

Everything we know about Canale Monterano

7. Sutri

Best for a stage of a long walk. The Via Francigena passes through.

57 min from Rome · homes €700 to €1,000 a m² in the center · 6,707 people

Sutri, Lazio

Why visit Sutri

Sutri sits at 291 meters on a narrow tuff spur, fifty kilometers north of Rome on the old road linking the two. The Etruscans held it before the Romans took it in the fourth century BC, and it was among the colonies that refused further military contributions to Rome during the Second Punic War in 209 BC.

The rock-cut monuments that define the town, the arena, the temple turned sanctuary, the chamber tombs, all come from the same tuff spur the town is built on, so the stone that gives Sutri its ground is also what its Etruscan and Roman residents carved into. The high ground above, where the eighteenth-century villa and its gardens sit, looks down over that older excavated town rather than sitting apart from it.

Local tradition ties the town's beans to Charlemagne, who passed through and was supposedly relieved of an attack of gout by Sutri's variety. What the place adds up to is a settlement where the town and its excavation are the same rock: nothing was built so much as removed.

What to see in Sutri

  • Anfiteatro Romano. Elliptical amphitheater about forty-nine by forty meters, carved directly out of the tuff rock rather than built on it.
  • Mithraeum / Madonna del Parto. Roman temple to Mithras hewn into the tuff and reused as a Marian sanctuary, accessed through the medieval rock-cut church.
  • Necropoli rupestre. Etruscan necropolis with dozens of rock-cut chamber tombs in the cliff face along the Via Cassia.

How to get to Sutri

Rome is about 57 min away by road.

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the best months in the tuff country, when the amphitheater grass is green and the gardens of Villa Savorelli are open. July and August push afternoons into the mid-thirties; the rock-cut Mithraeum and tomb chambers stay cool and become the part of the visit that doesn't need to be timed. November through March is quiet.

Everything we know about Sutri

8. Subiaco

Best for a ski week. There is a mapped ski area in the comune.

1 h 10 min from Rome · homes €700 to €1,050 a m² in the center · 8,499 people

Subiaco, Lazio

Why visit Subiaco

Subiaco sits at 408 meters along the upper Aniene, seventy-three kilometers east of Rome and forty from Tivoli. Nero built a villa here in the first century, damming the river into artificial lakes known as Sublaqueum, below the lake, and the name outlasted the villa and the emperor both.

The town that grew up here reads in layers going up the valley side: the river and the bridge at the bottom, the abbey partway up the hill, the fortress at the summit, and the cliff sanctuary further out along the cliff face that gave the hermit's cave its shelter, each one built at a different remove from the water and from the town center. What holds these layers together is a single life.

A man who came here as a young man to live alone in a cave gave his name to a monastery down the hill, and centuries later that same monastery's press put the first printed book on Italian soil into circulation. The fortress above answers to a different history, the abbots who ruled here as feudal lords, one of whom fathered a child who became one of the most written-about women of her age.

A river valley that supplied an emperor's pleasure lakes became, without much overlap, the ground where monastic life took its early shape.

What to see in Subiaco

  • Monastero del Sacro Speco. Built into the cliff face of Monte Taleo, the sanctuary rises in tiers over the cave itself, and the frescoes by Conxolus and the school of Cimabue cover walls that follow the rock rather than a flat plan.
  • Abbazia di Santa Scolastica. The only one of Benedict's twelve original monasteries still standing, sixth century in origin; its library holds three hundred manuscripts, including a copy of the Lactantius run off the abbey's own press.
  • Rocca Abbaziale (Rocca dei Borgia). Set on the highest ground of the borgo, the fortress was raised by abbot Giovanni V in the twelfth century and later gave Lucrezia Borgia, daughter of the abbot Rodrigo Borgia, a birthplace in 1480.

How to get to Subiaco

Rome is about 1 h 10 min away by road. The full route from Rome.

Our tip

April through June and September through October are the months for Subiaco: the Aniene runs full, the cliff sanctuaries are open from morning, and the pilgrim road south fills with walkers on the Cammino di San Benedetto. July and August are warm in town and cool in the monasteries; the cave at the Sacro Speco holds twelve degrees year-round. November through March is the quiet pilgrim season, mist on the river and few coaches in the lots.

Everything we know about Subiaco

9. Castelnuovo di Porto

Best for a day out from Rome. It is 37 min by car.

37 min from Rome · homes €900 to €1,350 a m² in the center · 8,658 people

Castelnuovo di Porto, Lazio

Why visit Castelnuovo di Porto

Castelnuovo di Porto sits at 250 meters on a tufa spur between the Chiarano and Mola valleys. The first fortification went up before the year 1000 under the senator Alberico, and the medieval village grew around it in concentric loops that still shape the centro storico today.

The Colonna family took the fief in the late Middle Ages and built the fortress that occupies the highest point of the ridge, the keep from which the whole settlement takes its layout, houses and passages stepping down the slope in rings. The town's name preserves its administrative link to the river: this was the Castrum Novum of the bishop of Porto, the old diocesan seat at the Tiber mouth, a naming that ties a tufa hilltop village to an ecclesiastical authority seated on the coast.

The Borghi più belli d'Italia membership covers the centro storico and the fortress together, while Etruscan and Roman archaeology runs through the Veio park that surrounds both. The result is a village whose name records a bishop's jurisdiction, whose form records a medieval defense, and whose surroundings record two much older civilizations, all still legible on the same ridge.

What to see in Castelnuovo di Porto

  • Rocca Colonna. Ducal palace inside the keep at the highest point of the ridge, used by Marcantonio Colonna after Lepanto and later by Christina of Sweden passing through to Rome.
  • Centro storico. Tufa houses and vaulted passages along the concentric loops, with the surviving village gates still marking the old perimeter.
  • Chiesa di Santa Lucia. Parish church inside the walls, with Renaissance frescoes and a baptismal font dating to the period of the fortress above it.

How to get to Castelnuovo di Porto

Rome is about 37 min away by road. The full route from Rome.

Our tip

April through June and September through October are the strongest months. The Tiber valley is green in spring and the rocca terraces open cleanest at low sun. July and August touch the upper thirties; the centro storico stays cooler than Rome twenty-five kilometers downhill but the Veio park trails go silent in midday heat.

Everything we know about Castelnuovo di Porto

If you only pick one

Which town is yours

One town for each kind of trip, and the reason in a line.

More from Anywhere Italy