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Slow trip

11 slow days: Montescudaio and Vernazza

# 11 slow days in Florence & Pisa and Genoa October in Tuscany means the harvest is finishing and the light turns amber across valleys where cypress trees punctuate medieval hilltowns like Montescudaio and Castagneto Carducci, their archives and small museums holding centuries of art most visitors never reach. From there, the itinerary moves northeast to Liguria's coast, where villages such as Vernazza and Levanto cling to cliffsides above the Ligurian Sea, their palaces and churches carrying the weight of maritime empires and Renaissance trade.

11 days · October · art & history-first · easy walking

Montescudaio

Montescudaio, 5 days

Base yourself in Montescudaio and make these your day trips.

7 towns · qualifying pool of 9 from 58 candidates

Coastal towns in the provinces of Pisa, Livorno, and Firenze. wine territory, olive oil country, and Borghi Più Belli d'Italia.

Getting around

Montescudaio, your base, has no station, so plan to arrive by car. 4 of the 7 towns here have a station; the rest need wheels. A rental car makes this corner simple, a rail-plus-taxi version takes patience.

Your timing

October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

While you're there

  • Castagneto CarducciCastagneto a Tavola, OctoberThree-day food-and-wine festival paying tribute to Giosuè Carducci's local ribotte with tastings and historical re-enactments.

Day 1 · Arrive in Montescudaio

Settle in. Montescudaio is your base for the next 5 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Montescudaio

Province: Pisa

Montescudaio

A fortified hill borgo at 242 meters, named for a mountain of shields, with DOC wine since 1977 and bread, oil and grape all stamped in its identity.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 2 · Day trip to Castagneto Carducci

First outing. Head to Castagneto Carducci for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Montescudaio for dinner.

Castagneto Carducci

Province: Livorno

Castagneto Carducci

A hilltop borgo at 194 meters above the Costa degli Etruschi, renamed for the poet Carducci in 1907 and the home of Bolgheri and Sassicaia.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal · Castagneto a Tavola, October

Day 3 · Day trip to Campiglia Marittima

Out again, this time to Campiglia Marittima. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Montescudaio.

Campiglia Marittima

Province: Livorno

Campiglia Marittima

A walled hilltop borgo above the Val di Cornia, where the Rocca tower watches a mining landscape worked from the Etruscans to 1976.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 4 · Day trip to Pisa

Out again, this time to Pisa. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Montescudaio.

Pisa

Province: Pisa

Pisa

Maritime republic on the Arno, twelve kilometers from the Ligurian Sea, with the leaning bell tower at the center of a single UNESCO-listed walled compound.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 5 · Day trip to Suvereto

Last day trip in this corner, to Suvereto. Make a day of it, then back to Montescudaio.

Suvereto

Province: Livorno

Suvereto

A stone borgo at 127 meters above the Val di Cornia, named for the cork oaks of its forests and ruled from the Rocca Aldobrandesca since 973.

Picked for:art and history · plain

More options in this corner

Vernazza

Vernazza, 7 days

Base yourself in Vernazza and make these your day trips.

7 towns · qualifying pool of 13 from 48 candidates

Coastal towns in the provinces of La Spezia and Genova. national park territory, Bandiera Blu coast, and UNESCO listed.

Getting around

Vernazza, your base, is on the rail network. 6 of the 7 towns in this corner have a railway station, so a car-free version of this corner is realistic. Check Trenitalia timetables before you commit a day: rural frequencies run thin, especially on Sundays.

Your timing

October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

Day 1 · Arrive in Vernazza

Settle in. Vernazza is your base for the next 7 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Vernazza

Province: La Spezia

Vernazza

The middle village of the coast, the only one with a natural harbor, buried under four meters of mud in October 2011.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 2 · Day trip to Monterosso al Mare

First outing. Head to Monterosso al Mare for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Vernazza for dinner.

Monterosso al Mare

Province: La Spezia

Monterosso al Mare

The westernmost and largest of the five villages, where Eugenio Montale spent the childhood summers that became Ossi di seppia in 1925.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 3 · Day trip to Levanto

Out again, this time to Levanto. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Vernazza.

Levanto

Province: La Spezia

Levanto

The sixth Cinque Terre, a beach town and Cittaslow at the gateway of the national park, with a surf break and a striped Gothic church.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

Day 4 · Day trip to Framura

Out again, this time to Framura. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Vernazza.

Framura

Province: La Spezia

Framura

Five hamlets between sea level and 300 meters on the Riviera di Levante, with Byzantine watchtowers built against Saracen incursions.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 5 · Day trip to Sestri Levante

Out again, this time to Sestri Levante. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Vernazza.

Sestri Levante

Province: Genova

Sestri Levante

The Tigullio town of two bays, split by a peninsula where a river once silted an island to the shore.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

Day 6 · Day trip to Riomaggiore

Out again, this time to Riomaggiore. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Vernazza.

Riomaggiore

Province: La Spezia

Riomaggiore

The easternmost of the five villages, 1,326 people stacked above a fishing inlet, terraced vineyards climbing 250 meters straight off the sea.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 7 · Day trip to Lavagna

Last day trip in this corner, to Lavagna. Make a day of it, then back to Vernazza.

Lavagna

Province: Genova

Lavagna

The Tigullio town that gave its name to slate, and its counts to a line of popes.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

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