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Slow trip

14 slow days of food and wine: Alba, Manerba del Garda, and Todi

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Piedmont's Alba trades its September truffle season for September tourists, a calculation that works in your favor when you arrive to taste nebbiolo in the vineyards around Santo Stefano Belbo and eat tajarin at tables where locals outnumber visitors. From there, you'll move to the limestone cliffs above Lake Garda, where Limone sul Garda's lemon groves still perfume the air the way they did two centuries ago, then finish in Umbria's Todi, a medieval hill town that descends in concentric stone rings toward the Tiber Valley below.

14 days · September · food & wine-first · easy walking

Alba

Alba, 6 days

Base yourself in Alba and make these your day trips.

6 towns · qualifying pool of 11 from 49 candidates

Plain towns in the provinces of Cuneo, Asti, and Alessandria. Tartufo Bianco d'Alba, Bra DOP, Spighe Verdi, and wine territory.

Getting around

Alba, your base, is on the rail network. 3 of the 6 towns here have a station; the rest need wheels. A rental car makes this corner simple, a rail-plus-taxi version takes patience.

Your timing

September sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

While you're there

  • Santo Stefano BelboPavese Festival, SeptemberSeptember festival since 2001 in Cesare Pavese's birthplace blending literature, music, art and theatre across the Langhe UNESCO landscape.
  • BraCheese, SeptemberBiennial Slow Food festival celebrating raw milk cheeses with 500 producers worldwide

Day 1 · Arrive in Alba

Settle in. Alba is your base for the next 6 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Alba

Province: Cuneo

Alba

The Langhe capital at 172 meters on the Tanaro, world reference for white truffle and Nebbiolo, headquarters of Ferrero.

Picked for:food and wine · plain

Day 2 · Day trip to Guarene

First outing. Head to Guarene for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Alba for dinner.

Guarene

Province: Cuneo

Guarene

A Roero hilltop village at 360 meters above the Tanaro, whose Roero family baroque castle is now a luxury hotel and contemporary art destination.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town

Day 3 · Day trip to Bra

Out again, this time to Bra. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Alba.

Bra

Province: Cuneo

Bra

A Roero town at 290 meters where the world's first gastronomic university now teaches food systems.

Picked for:nature and walking · hill town · Cheese, September

Day 4 · Day trip to Santo Stefano Belbo

Out again, this time to Santo Stefano Belbo. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Alba.

Santo Stefano Belbo

Province: Cuneo

Santo Stefano Belbo

A Belbo valley village at 175 meters between the Langhe and Asti hills, birthplace of Cesare Pavese and the largest producer of Moscato d'Asti.

Picked for:food and wine · plain · Pavese Festival, September

Day 5 · Day trip to Canelli

Out again, this time to Canelli. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Alba.

Canelli

Province: Asti

Canelli

The Asti Spumante town at 157 meters in the Belbo valley, where 20 kilometers of underground tuff cellars hold millions of bottles at constant temperature.

Picked for:food and wine · plain

Day 6 · Day trip to Gavi

Last day trip in this corner, to Gavi. Make a day of it, then back to Alba.

Gavi

Province: Alessandria

Gavi

The Cortese di Gavi town below a Genoese star fortress, where Piemonte white wine was first recorded as Ligurian court tribute in 972.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town

Manerba del Garda

Manerba del Garda, 3 days

Base yourself in Manerba del Garda and make these your day trips.

4 towns · qualifying pool of 6 from 42 candidates

Lakeside towns in the provinces of Brescia and Bergamo. Borghi Più Belli d'Italia.

Getting around

Rent a car for this corner. Manerba del Garda, your base, has no station, so plan to arrive by car. Only 1 of the 4 towns have a railway station; the day trips assume driving.

Your timing

September sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

While you're there

  • Gardone RivieraFestival del Vittoriale Tener-a-mente, SeptemberJune-September concert festival in d'Annunzio's Vittoriale amphitheatre on Lake Garda, ranked among Italy's top five festivals alongside Umbria Jazz and Spoleto.

Day 1 · Arrive in Manerba del Garda

Settle in. Manerba del Garda is your base for the next 3 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Manerba del Garda

Province: Brescia

Manerba del Garda

A Valtenesi commune anchored by a limestone cliff that held a Roman temple to Minerva and a medieval fortress.

Picked for:lakeside · autumn travel

Day 2 · Day trip to Sirmione

First outing. Head to Sirmione for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Manerba del Garda for dinner.

Sirmione

Province: Brescia

Sirmione

A 4-kilometer peninsula reaching into the southern Garda, its tip closed by a fortified port and a Roman villa.

Picked for:food and wine · lakeside

Day 3 · Day trip to Gardone Riviera

Last day trip in this corner, to Gardone Riviera. Make a day of it, then back to Manerba del Garda.

Gardone Riviera

Province: Brescia

Gardone Riviera

A western Garda lakeshore town whose hillside holds an estate turned into a monument to one man's self-image.

Picked for:nature and walking · lakeside · Festival del Vittoriale Tene…, September

Todi

Todi, 6 days

Base yourself in Todi and make these your day trips.

6 towns · qualifying pool of 11 from 55 candidates

Hill towns in the provinces of Perugia and Terni. wine territory and olive oil country.

Getting around

Todi, your base, is on the rail network. 5 of the 6 towns in this corner have a railway station, so a car-free version of this corner is realistic. Check Trenitalia timetables before you commit a day: rural frequencies run thin, especially on Sundays.

Your timing

September sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

While you're there

  • TodiTodi Festival, SeptemberLate-August arts festival since 1987 featuring theatre, dance, music and literature across town squares and churches.
  • FolignoGiostra della Quintana, SeptemberTwice-yearly Renaissance equestrian tournament where knights from 10 rioni lance the Quintana ring on a figure-8 track, with two-week parallel taverns and a 600-person costume parade.

Day 1 · Arrive in Todi

Settle in. Todi is your base for the next 6 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Todi

Province: Perugia

Todi

A walled hill town at 398 meters on the Tiber, with Etruscan, Roman, and medieval rings stacked one above the other.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town · Todi Festival, September

Day 2 · Day trip to Bevagna

First outing. Head to Bevagna for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Todi for dinner.

Bevagna

Province: Perugia

Bevagna

Roman Mevania on the Umbrian plain at 225 meters, four medieval quarters that compete every June in a reconstructed market of the 13th century.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town

Day 3 · Day trip to Orvieto

Out again, this time to Orvieto. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Todi.

Orvieto

Province: Terni

Orvieto

Etruscan Velzna on a 325-meter tufa butte, later a medieval refuge of popes.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town

Day 4 · Day trip to Spoleto

Out again, this time to Spoleto. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Todi.

Spoleto

Province: Perugia

Spoleto

Lombard ducal capital at 396 meters under the Rocca Albornoziana, where a 230-meter aqueduct bridge crosses to Monteluco and Menotti founded the Festival in 1958.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town

Day 5 · Day trip to Spello

Out again, this time to Spello. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Todi.

Spello

Province: Perugia

Spello

Augustan Hispellum sits at 280 meters on Monte Subasio, its Roman gates still standing over streets that Pinturicchio once painted a chapel for.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town

Day 6 · Day trip to Foligno

Last day trip in this corner, to Foligno. Make a day of it, then back to Todi.

Foligno

Province: Perugia

Foligno

A valley town at 235 meters on the Topino, where Dante's Divine Comedy was first printed in 1472.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town · Giostra della Quintana, September

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