Polpenazze del Garda

Polpenazze sits on a Valtenesi hill 207 meters above sea level, six kilometers inland from Lake Garda's western shore. The lower ground below the village was once Lake Lucone, a small basin between the hills of Cassaga, Brassina and San Pietro, progressively drained between the fifteenth and eighteenth centuries to recover farmland. The village itself reads as a set of layers around that basin: the castle and its parish church occupy the high point, the Romanesque pieve stands on the hill facing the drained lake, and the vineyards and olive groves spread across the slopes between.

The wine fair in the central piazza draws on the same Valtenesi ground that produces the Chiaretto and Garda Classico rosso poured there each May. What holds the place together is the drained basin itself: land reclaimed from water now carries vines and olives, while the water's former bed preserved, in its clay, the traces of the people who lived on its edge millennia earlier.