Mulazzo

Mulazzo sits in the Lunigiana, the corner of Toscana that bends north toward Liguria and Emilia. The centro storico holds the tower and the parish church at the top of its stepped streets, the marquisate's old seat of power made physical in stone. Three kilometers up the ridge, reached by climbing further into the hills, sits the frazione where the booksellers once lived, a separate settlement bound to the centro by the same ridge line but carrying its own, later history: villagers who left in the nineteenth century with panniers of books on their backs to sell across central and northern Italy.

Ten kilometers off in the other direction, in Castevoli, a ruined castle marks where a separate branch of the family held its own patch of the same fiefdom. The town's two settlements, the medieval seat and the book-trading frazione, describe a place shaped less by one center than by a hierarchy of them spread along a ridge, each with a distinct trade in memory: rule from above, books carried out on foot, stone left standing here and reduced to rubble there.