The best towns you can reach by train that have a serious restaurant within 90 minutes of Perugia
The country between Perugia and the Val di Chiana runs on lentils, farro, torchio-pressed oil and river-valley wine, and the railway runs straight through the middle of it. Stations sit down on the flat while the towns rise above them in travertine, tufa and pale brick, close enough that a bus or a steep lane covers the difference. Autumn is when this eating gets serious: porcini in October, olives pressed in November, then truffle on hand-rolled pasta through the cold months. Lake Trasimeno adds its own register, with perch and eel from the shallow water and reed beds turning gold in the low light.
Most people travelling this way head for Florence or Siena, and both earn their crowds. Florence takes the vast majority of the region's visitors and holds them within a few streets, while Siena fills the Campo and its surrounding restaurants for most of the year. The result is queues at the door, menus written for people passing through once, and prices set accordingly.
The same hills, the same producers and the same railway keep going past all that. The towns here are the ones the line actually stops at or near, each with a kitchen worth booking, each reachable without keys or a car park. Some sit above vineyards, some above thermal water, some at the edge of the lake. They are smaller, they are quieter, and their tables are usually still free.
Of the 41 communes we have mapped in within 90 minutes of Perugia, 9 qualify as towns you can reach by train with a serious restaurant: we have confirmed each is reachable without a car, and each holds a restaurant listed by the most demanding of the guides. The smallest, Trequanda, has 1,166 residents.
Two more lists worth reading alongside this one: The 6 best hidden towns with a serious restaurant that you can reach by train within 90 minutes of Perugia and The best hidden towns you can reach by train that eat well within 90 minutes of Perugia.
Trequanda
Why visit Trequanda
Trequanda is three villages in one comune: Trequanda itself at 453 meters, Castelmuzio, and Petroio at 486 meters, scattered across the hills southeast of Siena. The first written record dates to 1198, when the Cacciaconti of Scialenga held it as fief; in 1211 Emperor Otto IV gave them the right to collect tolls.
In 1553 the village was among the first to be annexed to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. The Cacciaconti castle still anchors the centro storico, the Pieve dei Santi Pietro e Andrea next to it, built from 1327 in a Gothic-Romanesque mix and renovated in the Renaissance.
Petroio has produced fine ornamental terracotta since the early sixteenth century: lions and dogs and pineapples and chimney pots, the surface of half the gardens in central Tuscany. The municipality holds the Orange Flag from the Italian Touring Club and was inscribed in 2018 in the national register of historic rural landscapes.
Il Conte Matto, Fattoria del Colle have been named by a guide.
What to see in Trequanda
- Castello dei Cacciaconti. Medieval fortress at the center of Trequanda, seat of the Cacciaconti di Scialenga from the twelfth century.
- Pieve dei Santi Pietro e Andrea. Gothic-Romanesque parish church begun in 1327, expanded in the Renaissance, holding a fresco attributed to Sodoma.
- Castelmuzio. Walled hilltop frazione between Trequanda and Pienza, on the rural landscape register, the smallest of the three borghi.
How to get to Trequanda
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 70 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June brings the green months across the Crete Senesi, the clay hills holding their color before the summer burn. September and October are dry and gold, the olive harvest running through November in the Petroio and Castelmuzio frantoi. July and August touch thirty-six degrees and the three borghi go quiet between four and seven in the afternoon.
Rapolano Terme
Why visit Rapolano Terme
The comune sits at 334 meters on the eastern edge of the clay hills, twenty kilometers east of Siena. It was called simply Rapolano until 1949, when the spa industry pushed the name change, a shift that marks how thoroughly the waters came to define the place.
The thermal facilities and the quarry sit at some distance from each other within the comune: the springs rise near the centro and to its south, while the travertine beds lie in the Serre frazione three kilometers further out, a separate settlement built around the stone rather than the water. The medieval centro storico, meanwhile, holds no thermal or mineral history at all: a fortified perimeter, a Sienese-period castello on the highest point, and a parish church founded in the eleventh century, all predating the spa industry by centuries.
The clay-hill landscape spreads north and west of the comune, and draws most visitors past the spa itself. What emerges is a town built on two extractive industries, water and stone, wrapped around an older walled settlement that has little to do with either.
Osteria Il Granaio have been named by a guide.
What to see in Rapolano Terme
- Terme Antica Querciolaia. Six outdoor pools at 38 degrees, the older of the two facilities and the one tied to a general's convalescence.
- Terme San Giovanni. Thermal complex south of the centro among the clay hills of the Crete Senesi, with outdoor pools facing vineyards and olive groves.
- Cave di travertino di Serre. Active quarries in the Serre di Rapolano frazione three kilometers south, the source of the stone behind the Pienza Duomo's façade.
How to get to Rapolano Terme
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 63 minutes away by road.
Our tip
Thermal towns work year-round and Rapolano is the rare Sienese commune where winter is a season. The pools at Antica Querciolaia and San Giovanni stay open through the cold months and the steam off the 38-degree water against the December clay hills is the postcard the spa industry sells. April through June and September into October are the wider best months, with the Crete Senesi at full color and the surrounding wine and olive harvests pulling traffic through the centro.
Chiusi
Why visit Chiusi
The hilltop stands above the Val di Chiana, the valley floor visible from the town at a height that made it defensible and gave it command of the surrounding farmland. The cathedral, the museums and the tunnel network are close enough to walk between within the old center, while the painted necropolis and the lake lie outside it, a few kilometers apart in different directions, one inland toward the tombs and the other north toward open water.
The tunnels themselves connect the upper town to what lies beneath it: built as drainage, later folded into legend by Pliny the Elder, who took them for part of a king's tomb. The cathedral's own columns, lifted from earlier Roman buildings, make the same point in stone that the tombs make in paint and the museum makes in bucchero and alabaster: this is a town built repeatedly on top of itself, each layer reusing what the last one left behind.
I Salotti, Il Grillo è Buoncantore, La Solita Zuppa have been named by a guide.
What to see in Chiusi
- Museo Nazionale Etrusco. Holds canopic urns, alabaster sarcophagi, bucchero pottery and grave goods pulled from the necropolises around the town.
- Duomo di San Secondiano. Cathedral built around 560 AD over an earlier basilica, renovated in the thirteenth century, nave and two aisles on antique marble columns from Roman buildings.
- Labirinto di Porsenna. Visited from the Museo della Cattedrale, the tunnels run beneath the streets at a scale that still reads as engineering rather than legend, whatever Pliny made of them.
How to get to Chiusi
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 58 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the working months on the Val di Chiana edge: mild days, evening light over the lake, the wine and olive cycles below town. The Frittellata of San Giuseppe in mid-March and the Festa di San Mustiola in early June fill the centro storico with traditional kitchens. July and August push past thirty degrees and the basin below town holds the heat; the museums and the Labirinto stay cool. Tria Turris Medioevo e Palio delle Torri di Chiusi falls in June.
Passignano sul Trasimeno
Why visit Passignano sul Trasimeno
Passignano sul Trasimeno sits on a low promontory on the northern shore of Lake Trasimeno, twenty kilometers northwest of Perugia, separated from the lake only by the road that links Perugia to Tuscany. The Umbri held the ground first, then the Etruscans pushed them east of the Tiber; the Romans turned the spur into a watchtower controlling the pass between northern and central Italy.
In 217 BC Hannibal trapped Gaius Flaminius's army of 25,000 in the narrow road between Tuoro and Passignano, killing about 15,000 Romans in the morning fog of June 21, one of the worst defeats in Roman history. The Rocca, built around 850 by the marquises of Tuscany and conquered by Perugia in 1187, holds a quadrangular plan around a 32-meter keep that survived a 1778 partial demolition.
The Festa della Padella, held in late August, fries lake fish for the village in a four-and-a-half-meter pan on the shore. The Borgo dei Borghi finalist designation arrived in the 2010s.
Da Luciano, Il Molo have been named by a guide.
What to see in Passignano sul Trasimeno
- Rocca di Passignano. Quadrangular fortress built around 850 by the marquises of Tuscany with a 32-meter central keep, partly demolished in 1778.
- Chiesa di San Bernardino. Sixteenth-century church near the Rocca with a Renaissance interior and views down to the lake from its portico.
- Centro di Documentazione Annibale e Battaglia del Trasimeno. Small documentation centre on the Battle of Lake Trasimene of 217 BC and Hannibal's ambush of Gaius Flaminius.
How to get to Passignano sul Trasimeno
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 28 minutes away by road.
✷ We have written about Passignano sul Trasimeno
“The lake is like a sanatorium compared to the sea. It’s relaxed. It’s calm. It’s silent. To find this level of almost disturbing quietness, you either go up into the mountains, or you really need to know your way around the sea to find that particular spot not overrun by vacationers and beach people. In Trasimeno, this is easy. Even the most popular towns like Castiglione or Passignano sit in quiet harmony with the stillness of the water.”
Read our piece on Passignano sul Trasimeno →Lago Trasimeno | Never Compete with the Sea
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months the lake works. The water warms enough by late May for swimming off the Lido and the ferry to Isola Maggiore runs to a steady schedule. July and August are crowded; the Festa della Padella in late August is the loudest weekend of the year. Festa dei Barbari - Castel Rigone falls in July.
Castiglione del Lago
Why visit Castiglione del Lago
The town sits on a limestone promontory on the western shore of Lake Trasimeno, thirty kilometers from Perugia. That promontory was the fourth island of the lake in antiquity, before the strip of water separating it from the mainland silted in, which is why a place now solidly attached to shore still carries the memory of being an island in its layout and its name.
The fortress anchors the southern end of the centro storico, and a covered passage links it directly to the ducal palace: one museum complex, two buildings, four centuries apart, joined so that a visitor can pass from medieval military architecture into a Mannerist-frescoed residence without stepping outside. The town is the largest commune on the Trasimeno and the western base for the ferries out to the lake's islands, and it is the only one of the lake's shore towns to hold Borghi più belli status.
What this adds up to is a small center where fortification and courtly decoration sit back to back, and where the lake itself, its islands, its silted-in strait, its ferries, is never far from any single building.
L'Acquario have been named by a guide.
What to see in Castiglione del Lago
- Palazzo della Corgna. Sixteenth-century ducal palace built for Ascanio della Corgna on a Baglioni structure, eight rooms frescoed by il Pomarancio between 1574 and 1590.
- Rocca del Leone. Pentagonal medieval fortress commissioned by Federico II di Svevia in 1247, linked to Palazzo della Corgna by a covered passageway.
- Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena. Parish church on the centro storico's main axis, bell tower rising to 329 meters above sea level over the lake.
How to get to Castiglione del Lago
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 52 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months the Trasimeno shows best: the lake holds the light, the ferry to Isola Maggiore runs full schedule, and the lungolago at evening fills with locals and not yet with day-trippers. July and August push into the low thirties; the lake breeze helps, but weekends draw heavy traffic from Perugia and Florence. November through March is quiet. Stramaialata - Sagra del Mangiar Bene falls in August.
Deruta
Why visit Deruta
Deruta sits fifteen kilometers south of Perugia, its hill rising above the Tiber on the river's left bank. The walled medieval core, organized around Piazza dei Consoli, occupies the high ground, while the lower town spreads along the old road linking Perugia to Rome.
That road is where the workshops cluster, most of them family businesses running three or four generations deep, and it is also the route that carries traffic five kilometers south to the pilgrimage church, its walls built up over four centuries from votive tiles left by travelers on the same stretch of road. The first documented kilns appear in the archaeological record in the late thirteenth century, and by the early sixteenth the town's workshops had developed the lustro finish that gave Deruta wares their metallic shine, along with the Bella Donna plates that paired painted portraits with flattering banderoles naming the women depicted.
That convent complex, once a working monastery, now holds both the ceramics museum and, next door, the civic gallery with its Perugino and Alunno panels, so the town's religious architecture, its art collection, and its ceramics history sit under the same roof by accident of reuse rather than design. The upper town's churches and museums hold the record of what Deruta made and believed; the lower town's workshops are still making it.
I Rodella have been named by a guide.
What to see in Deruta
- Museo Regionale della Ceramica. Holds over 6,000 pieces from medieval to modern, arranged through the convent's old cloister and cells.
- Chiesa di San Francesco. Consecrated 1388 after earthquake reconstruction, Sienese 14th-century frescoes inside, Domenico Alfani Raphael-school panel above an altar.
- Pinacoteca Comunale. Civic gallery with Perugino's Eterno and Saints Romano e Rocco, plus two altarpieces by Niccolò Alunno from the surrounding churches.
How to get to Deruta
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 19 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months locals prefer. The Tiber valley stays mild and the workshops keep regular hours, with kilns running on weekdays and tastings open on weekends. The Festa della Ceramica in late August opens the cellars and the older workshops to the public. Palio della Brocca falls in August.
Montepulciano
Why visit Montepulciano
The ridge runs between the Val di Chiana and the Val d'Orcia, 70 kilometers southeast of Siena, and the town follows its spine uphill: streets climb from the gates toward the high point, where the main square sits ringed by the buildings that define the skyline from below. The origin predates the Renaissance fabric by centuries.
Etruscan tombs survive in the surrounding hills, though almost nothing of that period shows in the centro storico itself, which was rebuilt wholesale in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries over whatever came before. The wine and the festival both use the climb as their setting rather than their subject: the cellars are cut into the rock beneath the palazzi, keeping a constant temperature for aging, and the barrel race each August sends two men from each of the eight contrade hauling an eighty-kilogram cask up the same gradient that every visitor covers on foot, only slower.
The steepness that shaped the defensive site nine centuries ago is still what a person feels first, in the legs, before the buildings register at all.
Ristorante Caffè Pasticceria Poliziano, Osmosi, Le Logge del Vignola and 3 more have been named by a guide.
What to see in Montepulciano
- Tempio di San Biagio. A 13-meter dome and travertine façade standing alone outside the walls, the ground falling away below it so the building reads as a single volume against the hillside.
- Piazza Grande. The high piazza at the top of the ridge, ringed by the Duomo, the Palazzo Comunale and the Palazzo Tarugi, all rebuilt in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
- Palazzo Comunale. Town hall designed by Michelozzo in the fifteenth century, its tower offering a view over the Val di Chiana and Val d'Orcia.
How to get to Montepulciano
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 57 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the working months on the ridge: vine work in the surrounding hills, mild days, evening light that lingers over the Val d'Orcia. July and August push into the low thirties and the climb to Piazza Grande slows even the residents. The Bravìo delle Botti runs the last Sunday of August and fills the town. Calici di Stelle falls in July.
Cortona
Why visit Cortona
Cortona stands on the southern flank of the Val di Chiana, looking across to Lake Trasimeno: a position that put it in sight of both the plain it governed and the water beyond it. The Etruscan name Curtun survives fixed in stone, and the city that carried it was built in tiers up the hillside, walls and fortress at the crown, church and convent lower down at the edges of the slope, houses and squares filling the ground between.
The bishop granted Francis of Assisi a place for retreat in 1211, and what resulted was built into a narrow valley below the town rather than within its walls, a retreat kept apart from the civic center even as it stayed within reach. Santa Margherita, the city's patron, is held on the ridge above the streets she once walked.
The painters Luca Signorelli and Pietro da Cortona were born inside the walls that still define the town's shape. Frances Mayes published her memoir in 1996, and the town has not been quiet since.
What emerges is a hill town whose Etruscan skeleton, medieval faith, and modern fame sit stacked on the same slope, each layer visible without erasing the one beneath it.
Il Falconiere, La Bucaccia, Osteria del Teatro and 4 more have been named by a guide.
What to see in Cortona
- Mura etrusche. The walls still ring the city entire, the foundation under every later layer of building, Roman and medieval alike.
- MAEC. Museum of the Etruscan Academy in Palazzo Casali, holding the bronze plaque and the lampadario di Cortona.
- Museo Diocesano. Collection in the former Chiesa del Gesù with Beato Angelico's Annunciation of 1430 and works by Luca Signorelli.
How to get to Cortona
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 45 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June brings green hills, cool evenings and the longest hours in the Diocesano without a queue. September and October are the dry, gold months, light coming in low across Lake Trasimeno and the olive harvest running until November. July and August are the difficult months. Giostra dell'Archidado di Cortona falls in June.
Assisi
Why visit Assisi
Assisi sits on a terraced spur twenty kilometers east of Perugia, the town built into the western flank of Monte Subasio where it drops toward the plain below. The Umbri settled the site before the Romans came, and the municipium of Asisium grew up around what is now Piazza del Comune, the square that still forms the civic center of the medieval town.
The centro storico runs between two poles: the basilica holding Francis's tomb at one end and the church holding Clare's relics at the other, with the Roman square and its temple facade sitting between them as the oldest layer beneath the medieval one. Below the town, on the plain, stands the basilica built around the chapel where Francis founded his order and died.
Further up the mountain, past the town walls, the hermitage occupies a beech wood where Francis and his companions withdrew from all of it. The layout traces the life it commemorates: birth and burial at the center, founding and death on the plain below, retreat in the wood above.
The town has arranged itself, over centuries, around the geography of one man's biography.
Une, La Locanda del Cardinale, Benedikto and 1 more have been named by a guide.
What to see in Assisi
- Basilica di San Francesco. Two superimposed churches over the saint's tomb, frescoed by Cimabue, Giotto, Simone Martini and Pietro Lorenzetti.
- Basilica di Santa Chiara. Church at the eastern end of the centro storico, holding the relics of Saint Clare and the San Damiano Crucifix.
- Tempio di Minerva. Roman temple on Piazza del Comune, six Corinthian columns intact, one of the best-preserved temple façades in the country, converted to a church in 1539.
How to get to Assisi
There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Perugia is roughly 35 minutes away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months Assisi was built for. The hills around Monte Subasio turn green in spring and gold in autumn, and the pilgrim traffic spreads thinly enough that the centro storico keeps its silence in the early morning. October 3 and 4 are the Festa di San Francesco, when delegations from every Italian region process to the basilica. Festa di Sant'Anna falls in July.
More from Anywhere Italy
- The 6 best hidden towns with a serious restaurant that you can reach by train within 90 minutes of Perugia
- The best hidden towns you can reach by train that eat well within 90 minutes of Perugia
The 9 best towns you can reach by train that hold a food festival within 90 minutes of Perugia- The best towns with a serious restaurant that you can reach by train in the province of Perugia
- The best hidden hill towns with a serious restaurant within 90 minutes of Perugia
The 7 best towns with a serious restaurant that sit inside a nature park in the province of Perugia