Anywhere Italy

Slow trip

12 slow days: Trento and Pesaro

In October and November, the crowds thin from Verona's Roman amphitheater and the Renaissance frescoes of Pesaro's Ducal Palace, leaving the galleries and churches to their serious students. This itinerary moves between the Alpine foothills above Verona (Trento's prince-bishop castles, Malcesine's Venetian fortress) and the Adriatic slopes inland from Rimini (Gradara's medieval keep, Acqualagna's brick piazzas scarred by centuries of wagon wheels). The season turns the light sharp and low, turning stone walls the color of old coins.

12 days · October or November · art & history-first · no mobility limits

Trento

Trento, 7 days

Base yourself in Trento and make these your day trips.

7 towns · qualifying pool of 10 from 32 candidates

Mountain towns in the provinces of Trento and Verona. Borghi Più Belli d'Italia and wine territory.

Getting around

Rent a car for this corner. Trento, your base, is on the rail network. Only 2 of the 7 towns have a railway station; the day trips assume driving.

While you're there

  • TrentoMercatini di Natale, NovemberMajor Alpine Christmas market in Piazza Fiera and Piazza Mostra running mid-November through Epiphany since 1993.
  • BrentonicoFesta della Castagna di Castione, OctoberChestnut festival on Brentonico plateau with prized Monte Baldo marroni and Trentino dishes
  • Bleggio SuperioreFesta della Noce del Bleggio, NovemberFestival of Slow Food walnut variety served in cakes, bread, liqueur and rare salami
  • Borgo ValsuganaMercatini di Natale di Borgo Valsugana, NovemberChristmas market with wooden stalls along the Brenta River arcades in historic center

Day 1 · Arrive in Trento

Settle in. Trento is your base for the next 7 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Trento

Province: Trento

Trento

The Alpine capital on the Adige at 194 metres, where the Council that reshaped the Catholic Church met in a castle still standing above the city.

Picked for:art and history · plain · Mercatini di Natale, November

Day 2 · Day trip to Brentonico

First outing. Head to Brentonico for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Trento for dinner.

Brentonico

Province: Trento

Brentonico

The Monte Baldo plateau town between Lake Garda and the Vallagarina, with chestnut groves, war trenches and a botanical garden.

Picked for:food and wine · mountain · Festa della Castagna di Cast…, October

Day 3 · Day trip to Bleggio Superiore

Out again, this time to Bleggio Superiore. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Trento.

Bleggio Superiore

Province: Trento

Bleggio Superiore

A scattered Giudicarie commune whose hilltop hamlet of Rango holds the Christmas markets, with a Slow Food walnut grown on the terraces below.

Picked for:art and history · mountain · Festa della Noce del Bleggio, November

Day 4 · Day trip to Tenno

Out again, this time to Tenno. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Trento.

Tenno

Province: Trento

Tenno

A hillside commune above Lake Garda where a medieval stone hamlet, a turquoise lake and the northernmost olive groves in Europe sit within reach of each other.

Picked for:art and history · hill town

Day 5 · Day trip to Borgo Valsugana

Out again, this time to Borgo Valsugana. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Trento.

Borgo Valsugana

Province: Trento

Borgo Valsugana

The valley town built on both banks of the Brenta in lower Valsugana, with a hilltop castle above and a contemporary art project in the side valley.

Picked for:art and history · hill town · Mercatini di Natale di Borgo…, November

Day 6 · Day trip to Riva del Garda

Out again, this time to Riva del Garda. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Trento.

Riva del Garda

Province: Trento

Riva del Garda

The north tip of the lake at 73 metres, where the Trentino mountains close in on the water and a Habsburg port town stayed bilingual into the twentieth century.

Picked for:food and wine · lakeside

Day 7 · Day trip to Malcesine

Last day trip in this corner, to Malcesine. Make a day of it, then back to Trento.

Malcesine

Province: Verona

Malcesine

The northernmost Veneto town on Lake Garda, where Goethe was nearly arrested for sketching the Castello Scaligero in September 1786.

Picked for:art and history · lakeside

Pesaro

Pesaro, 5 days

Base yourself in Pesaro and make these your day trips.

7 towns · qualifying pool of 8 from 32 candidates

Hill towns in the provinces of Pesaro e Urbino, Forlì-Cesena, and Rimini. Borghi Più Belli d'Italia, olive oil country, and Bandiera Blu coast.

Getting around

Pesaro, your base, is on the rail network. 3 of the 7 towns here have a station; the rest need wheels. A rental car makes this corner simple, a rail-plus-taxi version takes patience.

While you're there

  • AcqualagnaFiera Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco, October–NovemberNational white truffle fair where Acqualagna produces almost two-thirds of Italy's truffles annually.

Day 1 · Arrive in Pesaro

Settle in. Pesaro is your base for the next 5 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Pesaro

Province: Pesaro e Urbino

Pesaro

The Adriatic port at the mouth of the Foglia, founded as Roman Pisaurum in 184 BC and given to the world by Rossini in 1792.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 2 · Day trip to Montegridolfo

First outing. Head to Montegridolfo for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Pesaro for dinner.

Montegridolfo

Province: Rimini

Montegridolfo

A walled borgo of fewer than a thousand residents on the Romagna-Marche border, held alternately by the Malatesta and the Montefeltro through the fifteenth century.

Picked for:art and history · hill town

Day 3 · Day trip to Gradara

Out again, this time to Gradara. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Pesaro.

Gradara

Province: Pesaro e Urbino

Gradara

The walled hill borgo at 142 meters above the Adriatic where Dante set the deaths of Paolo and Francesca, with one of Italy's best-preserved castles.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 4 · Day trip to Mondolfo

Out again, this time to Mondolfo. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Pesaro.

Mondolfo

Province: Pesaro e Urbino

Mondolfo

A walled hill borgo at 144 meters above the Adriatic, with the frazione of Marotta and its beach below.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 5 · Day trip to Pergola

Last day trip in this corner, to Pergola. Make a day of it, then back to Pesaro.

Pergola

Province: Pesaro e Urbino

Pergola

A hill town at 265 meters in the upper Cesano valley, holding the only surviving group of Roman gilded bronze statues from antiquity.

Picked for:art and history · hill town

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About this plan

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