Slow trip

10 slow days of food and wine: Riva del Garda, Castell'Arquato, Trani, and Chiavari

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10 days based in Riva del Garda, Castell'Arquato, Trani and Chiavari, in September and October, built around food and wine. Riva del Garda gets 2 days, with Malcesine, Trento and Brenzone sul Garda nearby. Castell'Arquato gets 2 days, with Parma, Castelvetro di Modena and Busseto nearby. Trani gets 2 days, with Andria, Fasano and San Severo nearby. Chiavari gets 5 days, with Sestri Levante, Lavagna and Noli nearby.

10 days · September or October · food & wine-first · easy walking

Riva del Garda

Riva del Garda, 2 days

Base yourself in Riva del Garda and make these your day trips.

4 towns · qualifying pool of 5 from 14 candidates

Lakeside towns in the provinces of Trento and Verona. Olive oil country and wine territory.

Getting around

Rent a car for this corner. Only 1 of the 4 towns has a railway station; the day trips assume driving.

Your timing

September and October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

Day 1 · Arrive in Riva del Garda

Settle in. Riva del Garda is your base for the next 2 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Riva del Garda

Province: Trento

Riva del Garda

The north tip of the lake at 73 meters, where the Trentino mountains close in on the water and a Habsburg port town stayed bilingual into the twentieth century.

Picked for:food and wine · lakeside

Day 2 · Day trip to Malcesine

First outing. Head to Malcesine for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Riva del Garda for dinner.

Malcesine

Province: Verona

Malcesine

The northernmost Veneto town on Lake Garda, where Goethe was nearly arrested for sketching the Castello Scaligero in September 1786.

Picked for:food and wine · lakeside

Castell'Arquato

Castell'Arquato, 2 days

Base yourself in Castell'Arquato and make these your day trips.

4 towns · qualifying pool of 5 from 23 candidates

Plain towns, around a hill-town base, in the provinces of Piacenza, Parma, and Modena. Parmigiano-Reggiano DOP, Culatello di Zibello DOP, TCI Bandiera Arancione, and Borghi Più Belli d'Italia.

Getting around

2 of the 4 towns here have a station; the rest need wheels. A rental car makes this corner simple, a rail-plus-taxi version takes patience.

Your timing

September and October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

While you're there

  • Castell'Arquato · Rivivi il Medioevo, SeptemberWeekend medieval reenactment with encampment, costume parades, fire spectacles and international historical fencing tournament in full armor.
  • Parma · Festival Verdi, OctoberOctober opera festival since 2001 in Teatro Regio di Parma and Busseto around Giuseppe Verdi's birthday with operas, Messa da Requiem and Gala Verdiano.
  • Castelvetro di Modena · Sagra dell'Uva e del Lambrusco Grasparossa, SeptemberTwo-weekend September wine festival featuring tastings, music and a kit-based pathway through local winemakers in this hilltop village.
  • Busseto · Festival Verdi, OctoberPremier international opera festival celebrating Verdi at his hometown Teatro Giuseppe Verdi

Day 1 · Arrive in Castell'Arquato

Settle in. Castell'Arquato is your base for the next 2 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Castell'Arquato

Province: Piacenza

Castell'Arquato

A 224-meter hilltop borgo in the Val d'Arda, kept intact since the tenth century and crowned by Luchino Visconti's 1342 fortress.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town · Rivivi il Medioevo, September

Day 2 · Day trip to Busseto

First outing. Head to Busseto for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Castell'Arquato for dinner.

Busseto

Province: Parma

Busseto

A 40-meter town where Giuseppe Verdi grew up, with a 300-seat opera house in the Rocca he refused to enter.

Picked for:food and wine · plain · Festival Verdi, October

Trani

Trani, 2 days

Base yourself in Trani and make these your day trips.

4 towns · qualifying pool of 7 from 51 candidates

Plain and coastal towns in the provinces of Barletta-Andria-Trani, Brindisi, and Foggia. Olive oil country and UNESCO listed.

Getting around

Trani, your base, is on the rail network. 4 of the 4 towns in this corner have a railway station. Check whether they share a line, and the timetables, before you plan it without a car: rural frequencies run thin, especially on Sundays.

Your timing

September and October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

While you're there

  • Andria · Festa di San Riccardo e Madonna dei Miracoli, SeptemberPatron saint feast honoring English-born Bishop Richard with procession, music and fireworks.

Day 1 · Arrive in Trani

Settle in. Trani is your base for the next 2 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Trani

Province: Barletta-Andria-Trani

Trani

The Adriatic port whose pink-white Romanesque cathedral stands on the water, built for a Greek pilgrim who died here in 1094.

Picked for:nature and walking · coastal

Day 2 · Day trip to Andria

First outing. Head to Andria for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Trani for dinner.

Andria

Province: Barletta-Andria-Trani

Andria

Frederick II's favorite Apulian city, the birthplace of burrata, ruling the Murge plateau eighteen kilometers north of its most famous castle.

Picked for:food and wine · plain · Festa di San Riccardo e Mado…, September

Chiavari

Chiavari, 4 days

Base yourself in Chiavari and make these your day trips.

4 towns · qualifying pool of 14 from 48 candidates

Coastal towns in the provinces of Genova, Savona, and La Spezia. Bandiera Blu coast, olive oil country, and wine territory.

Getting around

Chiavari, your base, is on the rail network. 3 of the 4 towns in this corner have a railway station. Check whether they share a line, and the timetables, before you plan it without a car: rural frequencies run thin, especially on Sundays.

Your timing

September and October sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

While you're there

  • Sarzana · Festival della Mente, SeptemberLate-August to early-September Europe's first festival dedicated to creativity and the birth of ideas with three days of talks, workshops and performances.

Day 1 · Arrive in Chiavari

Settle in. Chiavari is your base for the next 4 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Chiavari

Province: Genova

Chiavari

The Tigullio capital between Portofino and the Cinque Terre, a 27,000-person Genoese trading town built around a thirteenth-century grid of porticoed streets.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

Day 2 · Day trip to Lavagna

First outing. Head to Lavagna for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Chiavari for dinner.

Lavagna

Province: Genova

Lavagna

The Tigullio town that gave its name to slate, and its counts to a line of popes.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

Day 3 · Day trip to Sestri Levante

Out again, this time to Sestri Levante. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Chiavari.

Sestri Levante

Province: Genova

Sestri Levante

The Tigullio town of two bays, split by a peninsula where a river once silted an island to the shore.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

Day 4 · Day trip to Sarzana

Last day trip in this corner, to Sarzana. Make a day of it, then back to Chiavari.

Sarzana

Province: La Spezia

Sarzana

The unofficial capital of the Lunigiana on the Magra plain, birthplace of Pope Niccolò V.

Picked for:nature and walking · coastal · Festival della Mente, September

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