Anywhere Italy

The best lake towns that eat well within 90 minutes of Brescia

Gardone Riviera, Lombardia

The lakes east and west of Brescia run on their own calendar. Spring brings coregone and perch from Garda and Iseo onto menus with olive oil pressed a short way up the same slope, and by high summer the lemon houses and terraced groves along the western Garda shore hold the heat well into the evening. The wine list tends to be local and unapologetic about it: Franciacorta from the low moraine hills, Lugana from the flat land at the lake's foot, Groppello reds from the Valtenesi. Houses are pale stone and stucco, shutters closed against the afternoon, and the good tables often face away from the promenade rather than onto it.

Most visitors to this stretch of Lombardy point the car at Sirmione, out on its long thin peninsula, and the queue for the castle and the Roman ruins is the queue everyone warned them about. It earns the attention, but the summer crush on the causeway is real, and the restaurants closest to the crowd are the ones least obliged to cook well. Desenzano absorbs the overflow, and the same pattern repeats along its lakefront.

The shoreline does not stop there. The same water, the same olive terraces and the same fishing boats continue north up the Riviera dei Limoni and west over the hill to Iseo, into towns where a dining guide has picked out a table and where lunch is served to people who live there. These are the smaller places, less than a couple of hours from Brescia, and worth a detour for the kitchen alone.

Of the 13 communes we have mapped in within 90 minutes of Brescia, 6 qualify as lake towns that eat well: each sits on a lake shore, and a dining guide has named a table in each. The smallest, Gardone Riviera, has 2,626 residents.

Gardone Riviera

Gardone Riviera, Lombardia

Why visit Gardone Riviera

Gardone Riviera sits at 71 meters on the western shore of Lake Garda, in the province of Brescia. The lake here runs deep against the wall of Monte Pizzocolo, and the climate stays mild enough that lemons, olives and bamboo grow within walking distance of each other.

The town divides between the lakefront and the hill above it. Along the water, Gardone Sotto holds the promenade and harbour; above the centro storico, the ground rises toward the estate grounds and, further up, toward the garden that has drawn on the same mild hillside climate since the start of the twentieth century.

The boathouse on the estate holds a torpedo boat from a 1918 wartime raid, alongside the villa called the Prioria, an amphitheatre and a circular mausoleum. The garden above town spent six decades being arranged, one man working a single hillside into bamboo groves, alpine ravines, Japanese ponds and waterfalls.

The lakefront promenade carries the Bandiera Blu. What holds the town together is that division of altitude: a working lakefront below, and above it two hillside projects, one architectural and one botanical, each built slowly and by a single hand over decades on the same slope.

Il Fagiano, Osteria Antico Brolo, Villa Fiordaliso and 2 more have been named by a guide.

What to see in Gardone Riviera

  • Vittoriale degli Italiani. Nine-hectare hillside estate occupied by Gabriele D'Annunzio from 1922 to 1938, with villa, amphitheatre, mausoleum and the cruiser Puglia.
  • Nave Puglia. Protected cruiser of the Regia Marina set into the slope above the lake, gifted to D'Annunzio in 1923 and assembled on land at the Vittoriale.
  • Giardino Botanico Hruska (Heller Garden). Botanical garden begun around 1901 by Arturo Hruska, with bamboo, Japanese ponds, alpine ravines and waterfalls on a single hillside.

How to get to Gardone Riviera

Brescia is roughly 53 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the months western Garda works best. The Vittoriale grounds are walkable, the Heller Garden is in full bloom, and the ferry between Salò and Riva del Garda runs regular service. July and August fill the lakefront with day-trippers and the Vittoriale amphitheatre hosts its summer opera season; afternoons get warm but the lake breeze holds steady.

Everything we know about Gardone Riviera

Manerba del Garda

Manerba del Garda, Lombardia

Why visit Manerba del Garda

Manerba sits in the Valtenesi, between Salò and Desenzano. The name comes from a Roman temple to Minerva that once stood on the limestone spur now called the Rocca, which reads from kilometers away and rises above Lake Garda.

The hill carries its layers stacked rather than scattered: a Bronze Age settlement, the Minerva temple foundations, and the twelfth-century castle of the Valtenesi feudal lords, demolished by the Republic of Venice in 1574, all on the same outcrop. The village below relates to that cliff the way a working shoreline relates to a landmark it grew up beneath: the pile-dwelling sites documented in the park spread along the water, the beaches at Punta Belvedere and Porto Torchio sit within the same protected boundary, and the vineyards on the hills behind produce the Chiaretto that the area bottled before others in Italy did.

What this adds up to is a small stretch of shore where prehistoric, Roman, medieval and agricultural layers all sit within walking distance of each other, none of them requiring a detour to reach.

Capriccio, Osteria Dalie e Fagioli have been named by a guide.

What to see in Manerba del Garda

  • Rocca di Manerba. Bronze Age, Roman and medieval ruins stacked on the same hill, with a clifftop walk that takes in the layers underfoot as much as the view.
  • Parco Archeologico Naturalistico. UNESCO-listed park covering the cliff's prehistoric pile dwellings, the temple foundations and the castle remains, the ground on which the rest of the site's history sits.
  • Isola di San Biagio. Locally called Isola dei Conigli, offshore from the western shore, crossed on foot through shallow water in summer.

How to get to Manerba del Garda

Brescia is roughly 49 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through October is the lake's working season. The Rocca and the archaeological park open in April; the water warms enough for swimming in June, peaks in August at around 26 degrees, and stays usable into early October. July and August bring the largest crowds from Germany and Austria, and the parking lots near the park fill by ten.

Everything we know about Manerba del Garda

Toscolano-Maderno

Toscolano-Maderno, Lombardia

Why visit Toscolano-Maderno

Toscolano-Maderno sits on a wide flat fan on the western shore of Lake Garda, where two old villages, Toscolano and Maderno, face each other across the river that gives the valley its name. They were stitched into a single commune only in 1928, and the split is still legible on the ground: Maderno holds the older administrative and religious weight, Toscolano the industrial valley behind it.

Maderno was once the capital of the Magnifica Patria della Riviera di Salò, until Beatrice della Scala moved the seat to Salò in the 14th century. The town's administrative standing never returned, but paper filled the gap.

Mills had already been working the Toscolano river since around 1300, and by the 15th and 16th centuries they were supplying the printers of the Venetian Republic, their sheets marked with an ox-head watermark and sent out as far as royal libraries. What is left today is a town whose center of gravity moved once, from government to manufacture, and left physical evidence of both: an old civic and religious core in Maderno, an industrial valley cut into the hillside behind Toscolano, and a shoreline that now does the plain work of a lake town, swimming and the ferry crossing, once the mills and the magistrates had both gone quiet.

Il Cortiletto have been named by a guide.

What to see in Toscolano-Maderno

  • Basilica di Sant'Andrea. Carved portals on the marble facade, the interior kept plain by comparison. It stands over the foundations of the pagan temple it replaced, at the edge of the older quarter of Maderno.
  • Chiesa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo. The parish church of Toscolano, rebuilt in 1584 over the remains of an earlier church on the same spot. The frescoed interior is the draw, not the exterior.
  • Villa romana dei Nonii. The mosaic floors survive in the open air, set into the lakeside park rather than behind glass, giving a sense of the villa's original footprint.

How to get to Toscolano-Maderno

Brescia is roughly 56 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through October is Toscolano-Maderno's open season. May and June bring the lake into swimming temperature and the paper-mill valley out of its winter mud. July and August are warm and crowded with German and Austrian families on the lungolago; the ferry to Torri del Benaco runs full.

Everything we know about Toscolano-Maderno

Iseo

Iseo, Lombardia

Why visit Iseo

Iseo sits at 198 meters on the southeast shore of Lake Iseo, the fourth-largest lake in Lombardia, fed by the Oglio. The town was founded around a monastery in the 900s and grew under the Sozzi, the Isei, and finally the Oldofredi.

From 1428 to 1797 Iseo was part of the Republic of Venice. The lakefront and the vineyards to the south form the town's two working halves: one facing the water and the ferries that cross it, the other rising into the Franciacorta hills where the metodo classico grapes are grown.

Ferries from the lakefront connect to Monte Isola, the largest lake island in southern Europe, and to Sarnico across the water in Bergamo province. A lake town that turned its inland edge to wine and its waterfront to the island: the two directions, water and vineyard, still define how the town is used.

Radicì, Izé Restaurant dell'Hotel Araba Fenice, Trattoria del Muliner 1964 and 1 more have been named by a guide.

What to see in Iseo

  • Castello Oldofredi. The stone fortress stands above the lakefront, its walls facing the water rather than the town center, a reminder that it was built to watch the lake approach.
  • Pieve di Sant'Andrea. Founded by Bishop Vigilio, the church keeps its bell tower set into the middle of the façade rather than beside or behind it, an arrangement rare among Lombard Romanesque buildings.
  • Piazza Garibaldi. Main lakeside square with the first Italian statue of Garibaldi, erected in 1883, the year after his death.

How to get to Iseo

There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Brescia is roughly 28 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through October runs Iseo's lake season. April and May open the ferries to Monte Isola, the Franciacorta wineries reopen for tastings, and the lakefront fills on weekends. June through August is the peak window: warm enough to swim, hot enough that the centro empties between 14:00 and 17:00, and the lake breeze keeps evenings comfortable.

Everything we know about Iseo

Salò

Salò, Lombardia

Why visit Salò

Salò sits at 65 meters on the deepest gulf of Lake Garda, between the Brescia hills and the western lakeshore. Ancient Romans founded the colony of Pagus Salodium here; the modern commune separated from Brescia at the end of the 13th century.

From 1334 to 1797, Salò was the capital of the Magnifica Patria, a federation of town councils along the western lakeshore and the Valsabbia, first known as Riperia Lacus Gardae Brixiensis: a name for the same stretch of shore the promenade now runs along. The cathedral's builders left the façade unfinished, a state it remains in above the lakefront where the palace once housed that federation's council.

In 1943-1945 the town lent its name to Mussolini's last German-backed state, headquartered in villas commandeered along that same lakefront. Today Salò runs on tourism, lake events, and the MuSa museum, which opened in 2015 in the former church of Santa Giustina and carries the town's history from the Romans who founded it through the republic that later took its name.

A federation's capital, a commandeered wartime seat, a single waterfront: three centuries of Salò's public life have all faced the same three kilometers of water.

Villa Arcadio, Felter alle Rose, Il Bagnolo Eco Lodge and 3 more have been named by a guide.

What to see in Salò

  • Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata. The cathedral's façade was left unfinished, and the rose window dates to 1506-1508. Inside, the scale of the nave explains its old claim to being the largest church on the lake.
  • MuSa. Civic museum opened in 2015 in the former church of Santa Giustina, covering Salò and its territory from Roman times through the Italian Social Republic.
  • Lungolago. The promenade runs between the central pier and the gulf's southern point, three kilometers of open water on one side and the town's lakefront villas on the other.

How to get to Salò

Brescia is roughly 41 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through October is the long Garda season. April and May bring camellias along the lungolago, the lake stays mild, and the western coast road is open without the August traffic. June through August is peak season, with hot days, swimming weather, and the lakefront cafés full from morning to midnight.

Everything we know about Salò

Lonato del Garda

Lonato del Garda, Lombardia

Why visit Lonato del Garda

Lonato del Garda sits on a low morainic hill on the southwestern side of Lake Garda, between Brescia and the Mincio, halfway between Milan and Venice. The castle was raised on the recognition that this rise commanded the surrounding plain, a position the wife of Bernabò Visconti judged worth fortifying.

The Venetian rectors who later governed the town from their seat below the hill were themselves administering territory for a republic that reached this far inland from the lagoon, a detail the building's later life as a private museum has mostly obscured. That seat passed in 1906 to a Brescian senator and his wife, who furnished it room by room rather than converting it into something else, which is why it now reads as a residence rather than an institution.

South of the centre the ground flattens into the vineyards of the Lugana zone, the same morainic soil finishing out toward the lake's edge. The town, then, is a hill town in shape only at its summit: castle above, rectors' house and church at the level below, and the flat wine country taking over where the moraine runs out toward the water.

Da Oscar have been named by a guide.

What to see in Lonato del Garda

  • Rocca di Lonato. The upper structure stands 180 metres long, with the so-called Quartier Generale below it. The walls carry the reshaping of the 15th and 16th centuries over the original 1376 order from Regina della Scala.
  • Casa del Podestà. Rooms furnished as left by their restorer, with paintings, sculpture and majolica alongside the library, including a notable collection of incunabula.
  • Duomo di San Giovanni Battista. Late Baroque collegiate church in the centre, a single nave with sculpted altars and a frescoed dome.

How to get to Lonato del Garda

There is a railway station in the town, so you can arrive without a car and never need one while you are here. Brescia is roughly 32 minutes away by road.

Our tip

April through October is the working season for southern Garda, and Lonato runs on it. May and June open the Rocca and the Casa del Podestà to long visits and bring the Lugana vineyards into bloom. July and August bring lake heat and weekend crowds from Brescia and Verona, but the hill keeps temperatures three or four degrees cooler than down at the water.

Everything we know about Lonato del Garda

More from Anywhere Italy

The Sunday letter

The 1,000 Italian towns most travelers skip.

Every Sunday we send one letter. The week's town, what is worth eating there, and when to turn up. It is free, and you can leave whenever you like.