The 6 best hidden lake towns you can reach by train in Lombardia

Six towns: what each is best for, what a home costs, and the catch. A square meter runs from €1,200 in Dervio to €2,600 in Iseo.

From the 1,000 towns picked by Peter Benei.

92 towns written about, 908 to go. Follow along, free: Subscribe on Substack

Varenna, Lombardia

The lakes of Lombardia are cold, deep, glacial water held between mountains that fall straight into them, and the towns along their shores are built from gray local stone with plaster the color of dried apricot. Ferries cross all day, gliding between piers where fishermen still hang shad to dry in the sun. On the table there is lake perch fried and laid over butter rice, missoltino with polenta, olive oil pressed from groves that should not survive this far north but do. Spring brings wisteria over the waterfront railings, autumn brings chestnuts and empty promenades, and both seasons beat August for light on the water.

Most people arrive by way of Como or Bellagio, and both have earned the attention: the silk city has its Duomo and its funicular, and the promontory has the villa gardens and the postcard view down two branches of the lake at once. The consequence is predictable. Ferry queues in July, coaches nose to tail on the Via Regina, and hotel rates on the central lake that make a night on the shore a considered decision rather than an easy one.

The same water keeps going, though, north past the crowds on Como toward the Valtellina, west to Maggiore and Ceresio, east to the quieter basin of Iseo. Regional trains run these shores from Milan Centrale, Porta Garibaldi and Brescia, often in an hour or less, and they stop at towns where the waterfront is still where people buy their bread. These are the smaller stops: stone harbors, a ferry pier, a gorge or an island, and fewer people getting off the train.

Of the 64 communes we have mapped in Lombardia, 7 qualify as lake towns you can reach by train: each is on or above a lake, and we have confirmed each is reachable without a car. This list is the hidden ones, 6 in all, ordered smallest first. The smallest, Varenna, has 666 residents.

1. Varenna

Best for a small town. 666 people live here.

1 h 2 min from Monza · homes €1,600 to €2,200 a m² in the center · 666 people

Varenna, Lombardia

Why visit Varenna

Varenna sits on the eastern shore of Lake Como at the point where the lake forks into the Como and Lecco branches, opposite Bellagio and Menaggio. Local fishermen founded the village in 769.

In 1126 it was destroyed by Como during the wars between the lake's communes, and in 1169 it absorbed the refugees from the destroyed Isola Comacina. The streets fall in a steep grid toward the water, with the lakefront passerella running between the houses and the lake.

The Castello di Vezio, above the village on a spur reached by a 30-minute climb, was a Lombard watchpost reused through the Middle Ages. Villa Monastero, on the lakefront, started in the 12th century as a Cistercian convent and now runs a two-kilometer botanical garden along the shore.

The frazione of Fiumelatte hosts one of the shortest rivers in Italy, 250 meters from spring to lake.

The catch: It has lost 17% of its people since 2015.

What to see in Varenna

  • Castello di Vezio. Lombard-era watchpost on a spur above the village, reached by a 30-minute climb with 160 meters of elevation gain.
  • Villa Monastero. Former 12th-century Cistercian convent on the lakefront, now a museum and convention center with a 2-kilometer botanical garden along the shore.
  • Villa Cipressi. Sixteenth-to-nineteenth-century lakefront villa next to Villa Monastero, with terraced gardens descending to the water.

How to get to Varenna

It has its own railway station. Monza is about 1 h 2 min away by road. The full route from Milan.

Our tip

April through October is the working season. The ferries from Bellagio and Menaggio run frequently, the villa gardens open in late March, and the lake stays mild enough to swim from June onward. July and August are crowded: 666 residents host thousands of day visitors, and the lakefront fills with photo tripods at sunset.

Everything we know about Varenna

2. Dervio

Best for a walk through the old town. It is on the list of Italy's most beautiful villages.

1 h 2 min from Monza · homes €1,200 to €1,700 a m² in the center · 2,537 people

Dervio, Lombardia

Why visit Dervio

Dervio sits on a small peninsula on the eastern shore of upper Lake Como, where the Varrone torrent emerges from its valley and pushes a delta into the lake. The Romanesque bell tower of the Chiesa di San Quirico e Giulitta, attached to a church first mentioned in 814 and rebuilt around 1080, is the oldest structure in the commune.

Above the village, on a cliff that once blocked the road into the Valvarrone, stand the ruins of the Castello di Orezia, raised in the late Middle Ages and recorded in 1039 during a long siege by three Larian parishes. Dervio's reputation today rests less on its monuments than on its wind.

The position at the peninsula tip funnels the Breva and Tivano onto the lake in a way racing sailors learn to read. The commune draws sailing schools from April through October, and its lakefront promenade extends north toward Dorio along a stone path called the Sentiero del Viandante.

What to see in Dervio

  • Campanile di San Quirico e Giulitta. Romanesque stone bell tower from around 1080, attached to one of the oldest churches on Lake Como, first cited in 814.
  • Torre del Castello di Orezia. Late medieval tower on a cliff above Dervio, part of a fortress blocking the Valvarrone road, with documented siege in 1039.
  • Chiesa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo. Eleventh-century parish church on the lakeshore, with a Romanesque bell tower and later interventions.

How to get to Dervio

It has its own railway station. Monza is about 1 h 2 min away by road. The full route from Milan.

Our tip

April through October works on this part of Lake Como. May and June bring stable winds, mild temperatures, and the alpine slopes still green. July and August are the busiest months; the peninsula fills with sailing crews and Italian families with second homes, and the lake-facing villages hold their summer festas.

Everything we know about Dervio

3. Porto Ceresio

Best for a World Heritage site. UNESCO lists a site in the comune.

1 h 6 min from Milan · homes €1,200 to €1,550 a m² in the center · 2,820 people

Porto Ceresio, Lombardia

Why visit Porto Ceresio

Porto Ceresio sits on the south shore, 11 kilometers northeast of Varese and directly on the Swiss frontier. The lake is also called Ceresio, a name of uncertain origin that some trace to the Latin word for cherry.

Boats run from the pier across to Lugano and Morcote in Canton Ticino, and the railway from Varese, which reached the lake in 1894, ran on electric power from 1902, among the first lines in Italy to do so. The mountain behind the town covers a tropical sea floor from 240 million years ago, and the 2010 UNESCO extension tied Porto Ceresio to Besano and Viggiù and to the original Swiss site across the water.

The lakefront promenade, with its colored houses, sits between that green mountain slope and the lake itself, looking straight across to the Swiss shore. The town reads as a hinge point: a rail line built to reach the water, a pier built to cross it, and a mountain behind that turns the crossing into a border between two countries and two geological eras.

What to see in Porto Ceresio

  • Lungolago di Porto Ceresio. Lakefront promenade with the ferry pier and the colored houses that face Lake Lugano and the Swiss shore opposite.
  • Chiesa di Sant'Ambrogio. Parish church in the centro storico, the religious center of the village since the medieval era.
  • Monte San Giorgio. Rises to 1,097 meters across the water in Canton Ticino, the world's richest Middle Triassic marine fossil site, its green slopes forming the backdrop to the lake.

How to get to Porto Ceresio

It has its own railway station. Milan is about 1 h 6 min away by road. The full route from Milan.

Our tip

April through October is the lake season. The ferries to the Swiss shore run frequent crossings, and the lungolago fills with day-trippers from Varese and Milano on summer weekends. July and August push temperatures into the high twenties; the mountain shade behind the town keeps evenings tolerable, and the lake water stays cool.

Everything we know about Porto Ceresio

4. Bellano

Best for a slow weekend. The Touring Club gives it its orange flag for small inland towns.

1 h 2 min from Monza · homes €1,250 to €1,800 a m² in the center · 3,364 people

Bellano, Lombardia

Why visit Bellano

Bellano sits at the outlet of the Valsassina, on the eastern shore of Lake Como, the point where a inland valley meets the water. By 905 the town was under the Archdiocese of Milan; the Torriani and then the Visconti held it through the Middle Ages, long before the gorge became a destination or the mill brought industry.

The commune joined the Borghi più belli network in 2021, and in 2020 absorbed Vendrogno, a former commune higher up Monte Croce di Muggio, so the modern boundary reaches from the lakefront up into the mountain behind it. The town's identity comes from this stacking of inland and shore: a valley torrent cutting down through the rock, a medieval settlement governed from Milan, a nineteenth-century industrial mill at the gorge mouth, and a lake promenade with ferries to the far shore.

Each layer sits on the last without replacing it, which is why a walk from the pier to the gorge and up toward Vendrogno crosses centuries of the town's uses in a short distance.

What to see in Bellano

  • Orrido di Bellano. A slot canyon a few hundred meters long, the catwalks bolted directly into the cliff face so the water runs beneath the visitor's feet on both sides at once.
  • Chiesa dei Santi Nazaro e Celso. Fourteenth-century parish church on Piazza San Giorgio, with a rose window and façade in alternating black and white stone.
  • Cotonificio Cantoni. The brick chimney still stands at the gorge mouth, the one surviving marker of the mill that once made this a working lakeside town rather than a resort.

How to get to Bellano

It has its own railway station. Monza is about 1 h 2 min away by road. The full route from Milan.

Our tip

April through June and September into October are the months Bellano works best. The lake light is sharp, the Orrido catwalks are open, and the ferry to Varenna and Menaggio runs every half hour. July and August fill the eastern shore with day-trippers from Milan and Bergamo, and the lakefront cafés take an hour to seat.

Everything we know about Bellano

5. Laveno-Mombello

Best for a long lunch. A food guide lists La Tavola here.

1 h 14 min from Novara · homes €1,350 to €1,700 a m² in the center · 8,319 people

Laveno-Mombello, Lombardia

Why visit Laveno-Mombello

Laveno-Mombello sits on Lake Maggiore's eastern shore in the province of Varese, where a limestone wall drops directly to the water at the town's back. The ferry here crosses to Verbania and the Borromean Islands on the opposite shore, making the town as much a hinge point between Lombardia and Piemonte as a destination in itself.

Cerro, the lakefront hamlet folded into the town, kept the workshops after the ceramics factories closed in the 1990s, and its Palazzo Perabò now holds the museum that charts that industry from 1856 forward. South along the shore, a fifteen-minute drive reaches the monastery built into the cliff face, reachable by stairs, lift or boat where the road does not reach directly.

The town's shape follows the lake and the rock in equal measure: industry and transit at the shoreline, the mountain rising straight behind it, and the monastery holding on to the cliff a short way south as if the same geology that made Laveno a port also made it a place for building into stone.

What to see in Laveno-Mombello

  • MIDeC – Museo Internazionale Design Ceramico. Ceramics design museum in the sixteenth-century Palazzo Perabò at Cerro, covering Laveno production from 1856 to the 1990s.
  • Sasso del Ferro. Limestone summit reached by the bucket funicular, with a terrace looking across Lake Maggiore to Lago d'Orta and the southern Alps.
  • Santa Caterina del Sasso. Fourteenth-century monastery clinging to a cliff above Lake Maggiore, fifteen minutes south, reached by stairs, lift or boat.

How to get to Laveno-Mombello

It has its own railway station. Novara is about 1 h 14 min away by road. The full route from Milan.

Our tip

April through October covers the working calendar. The Sasso del Ferro funicular runs most days from spring through autumn, weather permitting, and is unreliable in winter. May, June, September and October are the calmest weeks on the eastern shore.

Everything we know about Laveno-Mombello

6. Iseo

Best for a day out from Brescia. It is 28 min by car.

28 min from Brescia · homes €2,000 to €2,600 a m² in the center · 8,979 people

Iseo, Lombardia

Why visit Iseo

Iseo sits at 198 meters on the southeast shore of Lake Iseo, the fourth-largest lake in Lombardia, fed by the Oglio. First recorded in the ninth century as a holding of the Brescian monastery of San Salvatore, the town grew under the Sozzi, the Isei, and finally the Oldofredi.

From 1428 to 1797 Iseo was part of the Republic of Venice. The lakefront and the vineyards to the south form the town's two working halves: one facing the water and the ferries that cross it, the other rising into the Franciacorta hills where the metodo classico grapes are grown.

Ferries from the lakefront connect to Monte Isola, the largest lake island in Italy, and to Sarnico across the water in Bergamo province. A lake town that turned its inland edge to wine and its waterfront to the island: the two directions, water and vineyard, still define how the town is used.

What to see in Iseo

  • Castello Oldofredi. The stone fortress stands above the lakefront, its walls facing the water rather than the town center, a reminder that it was built to watch the lake approach.
  • Pieve di Sant'Andrea. Founded, by tradition, by Bishop Vigilio of Brescia around 500, the church keeps its bell tower set into the middle of the façade rather than beside or behind it, an arrangement rare among Lombard Romanesque buildings.
  • Piazza Garibaldi. Main lakeside square with what is described as the first non-equestrian statue of Garibaldi, by Pietro Bordini, unveiled in 1883, the year after his death.

How to get to Iseo

It has its own railway station. Brescia is about 28 min away by road. The full route from Verona.

Our tip

April through October runs Iseo's lake season. April and May open the ferries to Monte Isola, the Franciacorta wineries reopen for tastings, and the lakefront fills on weekends. June through August is the peak window: warm enough to swim, hot enough that the centro empties between 14:00 and 17:00, and the lake breeze keeps evenings comfortable.

Everything we know about Iseo

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