Anywhere Italy

Slow trip

7 slow days: Montalcino

Florence and Pisa anchor this week, but the real pull is south, where the clay hills around Montalcino and Castiglione d'Orcia hold frescoed churches that few tourists ever enter. September light strips bare the Renaissance facades you've seen in books, turning them into something closer to their original weight. San Casciano dei Bagni sits in a fold where thermal springs feed into the landscape like a quiet fact no one thinks to verify.

7 days · September · art & history-first · moderate walking

Montalcino

Montalcino, 7 days

Base yourself in Montalcino and make these your day trips.

7 towns · qualifying pool of 9 from 83 candidates

Hill towns in the provinces of Siena and Grosseto. Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Chianti Classico DOCG, olive oil country, and wine territory.

Getting around

Montalcino, your base, is on the rail network. 3 of the 7 towns here have a station; the rest need wheels. A rental car makes this corner simple, a rail-plus-taxi version takes patience.

Your timing

September sits in this corner's best window: open, temperate, and short of the crowd months.

While you're there

  • San Quirico d'OrciaForme nel Verde, SeptemberJuly-October contemporary sculpture exhibition since 1971 in the 16th-century Horti Leonini garden and Val d'Orcia landscape locations.
  • Isola del GiglioFesta di San Mamiliano, SeptemberSeptember 15 patronal feast in Giglio Castello with procession of the saint's relic, Palio dei Somari donkey race, quadriglia dancing, and the parallel Sagra del Coniglio (Wild Rabbit Fair).

Day 1 · Arrive in Montalcino

Settle in. Montalcino is your base for the next 7 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Montalcino

Province: Siena

Montalcino

A walled hill town at 564 meters above the Val d'Orcia, the last fortress to hold out for the Sienese Republic and the birthplace of Brunello.

Picked for:art and history · hill town

Day 2 · Day trip to San Quirico d'Orcia

First outing. Head to San Quirico d'Orcia for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Montalcino for dinner.

San Quirico d'Orcia

Province: Siena

San Quirico d'Orcia

A walled stop on the Via Francigena at 409 meters in the UNESCO Val d'Orcia, where a twelfth-century Collegiata, a Renaissance garden and the Bagno Vignoni thermal pool sit within fifteen kilometers of each other.

Picked for:art and history · hill town · Forme nel Verde, September

Day 3 · Day trip to Siena

Out again, this time to Siena. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Montalcino.

Siena

Province: Siena

Siena

The medieval rival of Florence at 322 meters on three hills, with a shell-shaped piazza where seventeen contrade race bareback horses twice a year.

Picked for:art and history · hill town

Day 4 · Day trip to Castelnuovo Berardenga

Out again, this time to Castelnuovo Berardenga. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Montalcino.

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Province: Siena

Castelnuovo Berardenga

A commune of 351 meters, the last castle Siena built against Florence, in 1366.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town

Day 5 · Day trip to San Casciano dei Bagni

Out again, this time to San Casciano dei Bagni. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Montalcino.

San Casciano dei Bagni

Province: Siena

San Casciano dei Bagni

A hilltop borgo at 582 meters above 42 hot springs that produced the largest Etruscan bronze hoard of the last fifty years.

Picked for:art and history · hill town

Day 6 · Day trip to Castiglione d'Orcia

Out again, this time to Castiglione d'Orcia. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Montalcino.

Castiglione d'Orcia

Province: Siena

Castiglione d'Orcia

A stone borgo at 540 meters in the UNESCO Val d'Orcia, with two fortresses guarding the road from Amiata to the Via Francigena.

Picked for:art and history · hill town

Day 7 · Day trip to Isola del Giglio

Last day trip in this corner, to Isola del Giglio. Make a day of it, then back to Montalcino.

Isola del Giglio

Province: Grosseto

Isola del Giglio

A granite island in the Tyrrhenian Archipelago, walled village on the ridge, port below, where the Costa Concordia ran aground in January 2012.

Picked for:art and history · island · Festa di San Mamiliano, September

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