The best small wine towns that eat well in Tuscany
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Tuscany tastes of its own geology. On the tufa ridges of the south the wine is darker and the bread saltless, the boar is stewed long and served over pici rolled by hand, and the houses are cut from the same volcanic rock the cellars are dug into. Further north the stone turns gray, the hills fold into Chianti and the Val d'Elsa, and Sangiovese takes on the dusty cherry note people cross continents for. Autumn is the season that makes the case best: grape harvest, then olives, then the first cold evenings when the fireplaces in the trattorie are lit and the menu shortens to what is actually in season.
Most of this drinking and eating happens in a small number of places. Siena and Montepulciano absorb the coach traffic, Montalcino has become a wine list with a town attached, and the Chianti road between Florence and Siena carries a queue of hire cars from spring to late October. The wine is excellent and the reputation is earned. It also means booking weeks ahead for a table that will seat you next to people who arrived by the same tour.
The vineyards do not stop where the famous names do. The same soils, the same growers' associations and the same cooking continue into smaller communes on the Maremma coast, up in the Val d'Orcia foothills, out toward Lucca and along the Colline Pisane, and those towns have kept their restaurants for the people who live there. Fewer visitors go, which usually means a shorter wine list, a longer conversation with whoever poured it, and a bill that reflects the size of the village.
Of the 84 communes we have mapped in Toscana, 22 qualify as wine towns that eat well: each belongs to the national association of wine towns, and a dining guide has named a table in each. This list is the small ones, 9 in all. The smallest, San Casciano dei Bagni, has 1,500 residents.
If you are still choosing, we have also written The prettiest small villages that eat well in Tuscany and The best small olive oil towns with a serious restaurant in Tuscany.
Why visit San Casciano dei Bagni
San Casciano dei Bagni sits at 582 meters at the southern edge of the province of Siena, above 42 hot springs that average 42 degrees Celsius. The baths were used continuously from Etruscan through Roman times and again from the Renaissance, when visitors came from across Europe.
In 2022, an excavation that began in 2019 at the ancient sanctuary turned up 24 bronze votive statues protected by mud, with around 6,000 coins in gold, silver and bronze. The find was the largest of its kind in fifty years; most surviving Etruscan votive material is terracotta.
The 1,500 residents live on a basalt outcrop above the Roman thermal complex, in a centro storico of stone houses and three small churches. The borgo joined the Borghi più belli network in 2014 and remains one of the smallest communes in Toscana to carry both that label and Bandiera Arancione.
Daniela (MICHELIN) and Castello di Fighine (Gambero Rosso) are listed in food guides.
What to see in San Casciano dei Bagni
- Santuario Ritrovato. Etruscan-Roman thermal sanctuary excavated since 2019, where 24 bronze votives and around 6,000 coins were recovered in 2022.
- Bagno Grande. The principal natural pool of the 42 hot springs, used from the second century BC through the Renaissance and reopened to the public.
- Collegiata di San Leonardo. Romanesque parish church in the centro storico, restored in the seventeenth century, with a baptismal font carved from local travertine.
How to get to San Casciano dei Bagni
Perugia is about 1 h 8 min away by road.
Our tip
The thermal pools make the calendar different here. Winter is the season many visitors prefer, when the 42-degree water steams against cold air and snow occasionally dusts the basalt outcrop. April through June and September into October are the most balanced months: warm hill light, the dry-stone walls of the borgo at their best, the sanctuary excavations open to guided tours.
Why visit Montescudaio
Montescudaio sits fifteen kilometers inland from the Tyrrhenian coast, on a hill above the valley the Cecina river cuts toward the sea. Fewer than 2,200 people live in the commune, and most of them are outside the centro storico, which is left as a tight knot of stone houses ringed by its old walls: a single church, the clock tower, and the terrace where the vines drop downhill toward the Val di Cecina and the water beyond.
The town holds four designations at once (Borghi più belli, Città del Vino, Città dell'Olio and Città del Pane), and its walls were built around an eleventh-century abbey. Wine and bread are both grown and baked around the same hilltop that once needed fortifying.
The fortress, the loaf, and the vineyard are not three separate stories here but three uses of the same ground, worked over centuries after the shields it was named for stopped being necessary.
SaQua - Ristorante in Collina is listed in the MICHELIN Guide and Gambero Rosso.
What to see in Montescudaio
- Centro storico. Walled medieval village, a tight ring of stone houses on the hilltop, built around the abbey that gave the settlement its first walls and structure.
- Torre Civica. Clock tower at the entrance to the borgo, the tallest visible structure and former civic landmark of the fortified village.
- Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. Eleventh-century parish church on the site of the medieval abbey, the anchor around which the walled village took shape.
How to get to Montescudaio
Livorno is about 44 min away by road.
Our tip
May through September is the season on the Cecina hills: dry days, vine work, harvest from late August through September. The coast lies fifteen kilometers west and the sea breeze keeps evening temperatures lower than the inland Maremma. July and August bring crowds to the beaches at Cecina and Marina di Bibbona, but the borgo on the hill stays quieter.
Why visit Murlo
Murlo sits at 314 meters on a wooded ridge above the Crevole river, twenty kilometers south of Siena. The comune is scattered.
The town hall is in Vescovado, the modern center down on the valley road; the medieval castle of Murlo, walled and tower-anchored, is a kilometer up on the hill, mostly empty and given over to tourism. The bishops of Siena held this ground as a feudal lordship for centuries, which kept it outside the Sienese republic and gave it the unusual status of an episcopal fief.
The defining find is older. On Poggio Civitate, three kilometers north, archaeologists from 1966 onward uncovered an Etruscan princely palace of the seventh and sixth centuries BC, one of the most important Etruscan settlement complexes ever excavated.
The terracotta acroteria from the roof line included the Cappellone, a seated bearded male wearing a wide-brimmed hat, sixth century BC, now the symbol of the Antiquarium museum housed in the old Episcopal Palace at the center of the borgo.
Il Libridinoso is listed in Slow Food's Osterie d'Italia.
What to see in Murlo
- Antiquarium di Poggio Civitate. Archaeological museum in the medieval Palazzo Vescovile at the center of Murlo, holding the Cappellone and other finds from the Etruscan settlement on Poggio Civitate.
- Poggio Civitate. Etruscan princely palace complex of the seventh and sixth centuries BC, three kilometers north of the borgo, one of the most important sites in Etruria.
- Castello di Murlo. Twelfth-century walled village, the medieval seat of the bishops of Siena, with narrow streets converging on the Palazzo Vescovile.
How to get to Murlo
It has its own railway station. Firenze is about 1 h 44 min away by road. The full route from Florence.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months when the Crete Senesi south of Murlo sit at their gold-and-green best. The Antiquarium is open year-round but limited in winter hours. July and August push past thirty-three degrees and the castle empties between two and six.
Why visit Castellina in Chianti
Castellina in Chianti sits at 578 meters on the watershed between the Arno and Ombrone basins, fifteen kilometers northwest of Siena and thirty-five south of Florence. Its position on the historic frontier between the two republics shaped the town: it was a Sienese border fortification reinforced in the fifteenth century by Filippo Brunelleschi and Giuliano da Sangallo against firearm warfare.
The Rocca with its fifteenth-century tower dominates the centro storico and now houses the Museo Archeologico del Chianti Senese, opened in 2006. The Via delle Volte runs the length of the eastern wall: an original ancient pomerium, once open to the sky, gradually built over by private houses against the wall and now a covered arcaded passage lined with workshops and trattorie.
The Tumulo Etrusco di Montecalvario, a sixth-century BC tomb with four burial chambers carved on the cardinal axes, sits a kilometer from the centro storico. The Gallo Nero of Chianti Classico DOCG is grown on the slopes below.
Albergaccio di Castellina (MICHELIN and Gambero Rosso), Osteria di Fonterutoli (Gambero Rosso) and Passo dopo Passo Osteria (Gambero Rosso) are listed in food guides.
What to see in Castellina in Chianti
- Rocca di Castellina. Fifteenth-century fortification with imposing keep, now housing the Museo Archeologico del Chianti Senese, opened in 2006.
- Via delle Volte. Covered arcaded walkway along the eastern wall, once an open pomerium, built over by houses pressing against the fortifications and now lined with workshops.
- Tumulo di Montecalvario. Sixth-century BC Etruscan tomb a kilometer from town, with four burial chambers carved on the cardinal compass points, excavated in the early 1900s.
How to get to Castellina in Chianti
Firenze is about 1 h 3 min away by road.
✷ We have written about Castellina in Chianti
“The wine is the whole economy of these hills, every village with its own, the region’s name stamped on the most famous red in Italy. Tuscan food runs to cured and roasted meat, so the wine ran red to meet it, lighter than you expect, almost fruity, easy, made to sit beside a steak and not to be lectured about. Here is the only wine knowledge you need on this road: it is all good.”
Read our piece on Castellina in Chianti →Road to Siena | The Long Way Is the Better Way
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the working months on the Chianti watershed: vine work, harvest from mid-September, mild days at 578 meters. The Festa del Vino in the second half of September fills the centro storico for a long weekend. July and August are warmer but stay below the inland Maremma heat, and the Via delle Volte is reliably cool.
Why visit Suvereto
Suvereto sits at 127 meters on the inland edge of the Val di Cornia, twelve kilometers from the Tyrrhenian coast. The name comes from the Latin suberetum, a wood of cork oaks, and the surrounding forests still hold them.
The Rocca Aldobrandesca, first documented in 973, occupies the highest point of the borgo; the Aldobrandeschi family who controlled it also ruled large sections of southern Toscana and the Maremma. The town reached its golden age in the thirteenth century, when Frederick II granted it a charter of freedoms in 1216 and the Palazzo Comunale was built.
The centro storico is a tight grid of stone vicoli that runs uphill from the Romanesque Pieve di San Giusto to the fortress. Suvereto holds Borghi più belli, Bandiera Arancione, Cittaslow, Città del Vino and Città dell'Olio, and the surrounding wine country falls under the Val di Cornia DOC and Suvereto DOCG appellations.
I’ Ciocio is listed in Slow Food's Osterie d'Italia and the MICHELIN Guide.
What to see in Suvereto
- Rocca Aldobrandesca. Fortress at the highest point of the borgo, documented from 973, expanded in the twelfth century and partly restored as an open archaeological site.
- Pieve di San Giusto. Eleventh-century Romanesque parish church at the foot of the borgo, with a sandstone façade and a single nave divided by stone columns.
- Palazzo Comunale. Thirteenth-century town hall with a double external staircase and Ghibelline merlons, one of the earliest surviving civic palaces of the Maremma.
How to get to Suvereto
Livorno is about 1 h 24 min away by road.
✷ We have written about Suvereto
“That is the thing the young man on the beach did not see, and the man who lives here cannot stop seeing. This is an industrial coast wearing a beach towel. Run it back far enough and the whole of it, the swamp and the steel and the slag and the white water, is one long story about iron, and the holiday is the costume the story put on after the work ran out.”
Read our piece on Suvereto →The Iron Coast | The Wrong Sea
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the dry months in the Val di Cornia, when the cork forests behind the town hold their light and the wine harvest runs in September. The Sagra del Cinghiale, celebrating the wild boar of the surrounding hills, runs across two weekends in December and draws a different crowd. July and August are hot at 127 meters and most visitors descend to the Tyrrhenian coast in the afternoon.
Why visit Capalbio
Capalbio stands twelve kilometers from the Tyrrhenian coast, the last hill town before the border with Lazio. Charlemagne gave the land to the Abbey of Tre Fontane in 805; the Aldobrandeschi held it through the medieval period, the Orsini built the castle, and Cosimo I de' Medici took it in 1555.
It became an independent commune in 1960. The medieval walls and the fortress define the centro storico at the top of the hill; the surrounding territory drops from the wooded uplands of Monte Calmata down to the coastal reserve at Lago di Burano.
The sculpture park sits four kilometers south of the walls, apart from the old town rather than within it. A borgo that governed itself late, held by abbey, feudal lords and Medici in turn before its own commune, and a territory that runs in one line from hilltop stone to coastal wetland.
Agriturismo Antica Pinciana (Gambero Rosso), Il Frantoio (Gambero Rosso), La Dogana by Enoteca la Torre (Gambero Rosso) and 1 more place are listed in food guides.
What to see in Capalbio
- Rocca Aldobrandesca. Medieval fortress at the top of the borgo, later expanded by the Orsini, with a square tower and battlements that overlook the Maremma.
- Mura medievali. Two concentric circles of walls enclosing the centro storico, with a walkable parapet that opens onto views toward the Argentario.
- Giardino dei Tarocchi. Sculpture park four kilometers south of the borgo, its ceramic and mirrored figures set among holm oaks.
How to get to Capalbio
It has its own railway station. Roma is about 1 h 48 min away by road. The full route from Rome.
✷ We have written about Capalbio
“Everyone driving from Florence down to Rome crosses the Maremma without noticing, because there is nothing on that stretch to make them slow down. The hills give out. The cypresses stop. What opens up instead is flat open country, wheat and grass running off to a few low rises, the least Tuscan-looking part of Tuscany, a landscape you would call dull if you were being honest and which most guidebooks solve by leaving out.”
Read our piece on Capalbio →Maremma | The Last Cowboys of Tuscany
Our tip
May through September is the season the borgo and its territory work together: the centro storico stays cool at 217 meters while the Tyrrhenian coast at Chiarone-Capalbio fills with swimmers. The Giardino dei Tarocchi runs April through October. July and August are hot inland; afternoon hours in the borgo thin out and the coast takes over.
Why visit Cetona
The town sits on the western flank of a ridge at the meeting point of Toscana, Umbria and Lazio, where the mountain divides the Val d'Orcia from the Val di Chiana. The medieval comune passed between Siena, Orvieto and Perugia before falling to Siena in the late fourteenth century, and it was Cosimo I who later sold it whole to a marchese.
The fortress at the top of the grid and the square laid out below it are two halves of the same Renaissance move: a private residence replacing a garrison at the summit, a flat civic stage opened up at the base. Above the town, in the woods, the hermitage and the caves belong to a much older layer, human use of the mountain reaching back to the Mesolithic, long before any comune or marchese laid claim to it.
What the town adds up to is a settlement built in tiers: a prehistoric mountain, a contested medieval center, and a Renaissance overlay that reorganized the base of the hill without touching what stood above it.
Da Nilo is listed in the MICHELIN Guide and Gambero Rosso.
What to see in Cetona
- Piazza Garibaldi. Elliptical square at the foot of the medieval grid, flat and open where the streets above it climb steeply. The civic stage of the borgo, still the first thing that orients a visitor.
- Rocca di Cetona. Fortress at the top of the centro storico, its walls and keep still standing though the interior became a private residence rather than a garrison.
- Convento di San Francesco. Franciscan convent below the borgo, founded in 1212, with a single-nave church and a small cloister still in religious use.
How to get to Cetona
Perugia is about 1 h 18 min away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the months Cetona keeps its calmest pace, the wooded slopes of Monte Cetona green or rust depending on the half. July and August are hot in the centro storico but the mountain trails above 800 meters stay cool. The Mostra del Tartufo, dedicated to the local white truffles, runs the second weekend of November in Piazza Garibaldi.
Why visit Pitigliano
Pitigliano sits at 313 meters on a tuff spur in the southern Maremma, eighty kilometers southeast of Grosseto and close to the Lazio border. The town is built into the rock it stands on: cellars, stables and synagogue all carved into the same volcanic tuff that the houses rise from above.
The county passed to the Orsini family in 1293 and stayed Orsini for 150 years of wars with Siena. In 1556 Niccolò IV Orsini gave land for a Jewish cemetery to his physician David de Pomis; the synagogue followed in 1598.
When Pitigliano was absorbed into the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in 1608, the Medici imposed a ghetto in 1622 around the synagogue, on the cliff edge. The nickname Little Jerusalem comes from there.
The Etruscan tagliate, channels cut into the tuff at depths from one to over ten meters, were carved long before any of that, and remain in use as paths and roads. The DOC Bianco di Pitigliano, a Trebbiano blend, is grown on the surrounding slopes.
Il Tufo Allegro (MICHELIN and Gambero Rosso), Angiolina (Gambero Rosso), Il Caveau (Gambero Rosso) and 1 more place are listed in food guides.
What to see in Pitigliano
- Palazzo Orsini. Twelfth-century fortress remodeled by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger in the sixteenth century, now housing the Museo Civico Archeologico and the Diocesan Museum.
- Sinagoga di Pitigliano. Synagogue built in 1598, restored after partial collapse, the heart of the Jewish quarter that gave the town its Little Jerusalem nickname.
- Quartiere Ebraico. The ghetto established in 1622 around the synagogue, with the kosher bakery, mikveh, oven and wine cellar carved into the tuff.
How to get to Pitigliano
Terni is about 1 h 47 min away by road.
Our tip
April through June and September into October are the dry months in the southern Maremma: vine work, mild days, evening light that hits the tuff cliff at low angle. July and August push into the mid-thirties and the rock holds the heat; the centro storico empties between four and seven. The Sagra dello Sfratto, celebrating the Jewish honey-and-walnut pastry, runs in September.
Why visit Montecarlo
Montecarlo sits at 163 meters on an isolated hill above the Lucca plain, looking south toward the Valdinievole. Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV founded it in 1333 after liberating Lucca from Pisan rule, on a site previously called Vivinaia for the wine roads that crossed the hill.
The name Monte di Carlo, Charles's mountain, has held since. The walled centro storico is still ringed by its fourteenth-century defensive walls, with the Fortezza del Cerruglio rising above the highest point.
Wine production has been documented here since Roman times; the first tavern keepers selling Trebbiano in barrels appear in records in 1371. The Montecarlo DOC was established in 1969, the white blends Trebbiano with French varieties including Sémillon and Pinot Gris, and roughly twenty wineries operate within the commune, a notable density for a population under 4,500.
Antico Ristorante Forassiepi (MICHELIN and Gambero Rosso) and Locanda Agricola Posapiano (Slow Food and Gambero Rosso) are listed in food guides.
What to see in Montecarlo
- Fortezza del Cerruglio. Fourteenth-century fortress on the highest point of the hill, expanded by Castruccio Castracani and the Florentines in the fifteenth century.
- Centro storico. Walled medieval village founded by Charles IV in 1333, still inside its original defensive perimeter along Via Roma.
- Teatro dei Rassicurati. Small eighteenth-century theater with 95 seats and a horseshoe plan, inaugurated in 1795 and still used for the autumn season.
How to get to Montecarlo
It has its own railway station. Prato is about 38 min away by road. The full route from Pisa.
Our tip
April through June and September through October bracket the year here. April brings the vines into leaf, May the first whites of the new vintage onto cellar tables, and September the harvest. The Festa del Vino runs in early September on the streets inside the walls.
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