Anywhere Italy

Slow trip

14 slow days of food and wine: Pompei and Matera

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November empties the Amalfi Coast of summer crowds, leaving Furore's fjord and Ravello's terraces to yourself while September's wine harvest still perfumes the local kitchens. From Positano's fishing boats to Massa Lubrense's lemon groves, you'll move through eleven days around Pompei tasting how the land feeds itself, then spend three days in Matera and its surrounding Puglian towns where ancient wine cellars carved into limestone still age the region's robust reds. The November light here is sharp and honest, cutting through the valleys where stone villages appear suddenly around bends in the road.

14 days · November · food & wine-first · moderate walking

Pompei

Pompei, 11 days

Base yourself in Pompei and make these your day trips.

9 towns · qualifying pool of 27 from 77 candidates

Coastal towns in the provinces of Salerno and Napoli. Limone Costa d'Amalfi IGP, UNESCO listed, and Borghi Più Belli d'Italia.

Getting around

Rent a car for this corner. Pompei, your base, is on the rail network. Only 2 of the 9 towns have a railway station; the day trips assume driving.

Day 1 · Arrive in Pompei

Settle in. Pompei is your base for the next 11 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Pompei

Province: Napoli

Pompei

The Roman city buried by Vesuvius in 79 AD, dug back up since 1748, and a modern town around Bartolo Longo's 1876 sanctuary.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

Day 2 · Day trip to Vietri sul Mare

First outing. Head to Vietri sul Mare for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Pompei for dinner.

Vietri sul Mare

Province: Salerno

Vietri sul Mare

The eastern end of the Amalfi Coast at 80 meters, the ceramics town since the fifteenth century, the gateway between Salerno and the cliff road.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 3 · Day trip to Furore

Out again, this time to Furore. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Pompei.

Furore

Province: Salerno

Furore

The Amalfi Coast village with no piazza and no center, scattered on rock walls 300 meters above the only fjord in southern Italy.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

Day 4 · Day trip to Conca dei Marini

Out again, this time to Conca dei Marini. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Pompei.

Conca dei Marini

Province: Salerno

Conca dei Marini

A coastal hamlet of 664 people on the Amalfi Coast, home to a monastery pastry and a sea cave that glows green.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 5 · Day trip to Ravello

Out again, this time to Ravello. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Pompei.

Ravello

Province: Salerno

Ravello

A ridge town above the Amalfi Coast where Wagner found Klingsor's garden in 1880.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

Day 6 · Day trip to Positano

Out again, this time to Positano. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Pompei.

Positano

Province: Salerno

Positano

The vertical village of the Amalfi Coast, terraced houses climbing four hundred meters to the Lattari ridge under a tiled Byzantine dome.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 7 · Day trip to Amalfi

Out again, this time to Amalfi. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Pompei.

Amalfi

Province: Salerno

Amalfi

The first Italian maritime republic and the coast it named, six meters above the sea between cliffs that close around the duomo's steps.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 8 · Day trip to Massa Lubrense

Out again, this time to Massa Lubrense. Same rhythm: leave after breakfast, return for evening in Pompei.

Massa Lubrense

Province: Napoli

Massa Lubrense

The Sorrentine Peninsula's largest commune by area, stretching from Sorrento across Punta Campanella to the Gulf of Salerno, Capri three miles offshore.

Picked for:food and wine · coastal

Day 9 · Day trip to Praiano

Last day trip in this corner, to Praiano. Make a day of it, then back to Pompei.

Praiano

Province: Salerno

Praiano

The Amalfi commune between Positano and Amalfi where the doges of the maritime republic kept their summer residences and the Path of the Gods starts.

Picked for:art and history · coastal

Day 10 · Day in Pompei

A slower day. Stay in Pompei. Walk side streets, find the market, take a long lunch.

Day 11 · Day in Pompei

A slower day. Stay in Pompei. Walk side streets, find the market, take a long lunch.

Matera

Matera, 3 days

Base yourself in Matera and make these your day trips.

4 towns · qualifying pool of 6 from 73 candidates

Coastal towns in the provinces of Matera, Barletta-Andria-Trani, and Bari. UNESCO listed, olive oil country, and artisan bread tradition.

Getting around

Matera, your base, is on the rail network. 4 of the 4 towns in this corner have a railway station, so a car-free version of this corner is realistic. Check Trenitalia timetables before you commit a day: rural frequencies run thin, especially on Sundays.

Day 1 · Arrive in Matera

Settle in. Matera is your base for the next 3 days. Take the afternoon to walk the centro, find your bearings, eat something local.

Matera

Province: Matera

Matera

Cave dwellings carved into limestone since the Paleolithic, called the shame of Italy in the 1950s and made European Capital of Culture in 2019.

Picked for:food and wine · hill town

Day 2 · Day trip to Trani

First outing. Head to Trani for the day. Take the slow road, leave time to wander, be back in Matera for dinner.

Trani

Province: Barletta-Andria-Trani

Trani

The Adriatic port whose pink-white Romanesque cathedral stands on the water, built for a Greek pilgrim who died here in 1094.

Picked for:sea and coast · autumn travel

Day 3 · Day trip to Andria

Last day trip in this corner, to Andria. Make a day of it, then back to Matera.

Andria

Province: Barletta-Andria-Trani

Andria

Frederick II's favourite Apulian city, the birthplace of burrata, ruling the Murge plateau eighteen kilometers north of its most famous castle.

Picked for:food and wine · plain

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